2006 volvo penta 5.7 rebuild help

[wellcraftpower]

So i was hoping to get some use out of my boat without rebuilding the motor with 700 hours as one of the guys talking me out of it on this web sight. 2006 chaparral 256 ssi. salt boat from florida. Anyway now i am forced to fix the motor as i have 30 psi in 2 cylinders and 80 in all the others. don't know how the boat can run so good with these numbers ., Just won't idle or start for ****. . anyway motor getting pulled next week . going to rebuild it myself. We have a good machine shop . I want to polish crank ,I hope.. bore and do pistons only re-use cam and rollers. rebuild vortec heads. I see kits all over for this what should i do or not do. want imput on the things i just said. should i buy all new. I'm in the process of building a 540 blower motor right now for a car so not made of money,

 

[ESGWheel]

Giving your money constrains and experience my suggestion is let the teardown be your guide. Develop your minimal basic plan on the inspection after teardown. And if still have some bucks to spare start adding in elements a la carte where the menu items are listed in priority order of need with expected cost of that menu item. That seems the most logical to me anyway….

 

[Donald0039]

So what happened to the engine. It ingested water and rusted a few valves?

Have you considered just pulling the heads?

 

[Scott Danforth]

at 700 hours, the motor is barely broken in. most marine motors will run 4000 hours plus with proper maintenance

Motor wont run at 80 psi, so your gauge is suspect.

could you just have rusty valve seats from a failing exhaust manifolds? you stated this was a salt water boat. most likely not flushed after runs, so most likely the valves look like this

what diagnostics did you do? I would at a minimum pull the exhaust manifolds and look at the exhaust ports. most likely just needs head work and new exhaust manifolds.

worst case, new heads.

Now, if you pull the manifolds, and the ports are all rusty, pull the heads. Most likely no need to go further than that.

However if you are dead set on rebuilding the whole motor......
the crank will tell you if you can just polish it, or you need to regrind. check prices, many times a new crank is cheaper than regrinding your current crank. rods are definitely cheaper to buy new than re-size
bore gauge will tell you what needs to be done on the bores and pistons.

 

[kd4pbs]

Just finishing up this task on an '03 Regal 2400LSR. Hopefully splashing the boat this coming weekend to verify the outdrive functions (DP-SM).
The single most important thing is to find a decent machine shop. Someone with a reputation for good work. They are becoming very hard to find nowadays, unfortunately.
How is it proceeding?

 

[BRICH1260]

When I replaced my 5.7 gxi, I went with a new Michigan Motorz long block. I transferred over my intake and exhaust, PS pump, alternator and water pump. I have ran it now for about six years and could not be happier. Might give their website a look.

 

[kd4pbs]

From what I’ve read on most of the hot ridding forums, the quality that most of these rebuilders put out nowadays is a far cry from what they used to be. That’s why I went the route of rebuilding it myself. I know it’s done right this way and cost less in the end.

 

[pae0332]

check your compression gauge, the engine will not run on 80 psi.
i have had couple run ins with bad gauges, pick up one from the local parts store for a loaner and see if your #'s are different from what you got earlier

 

[wellcraftpower]

at 700 hours, the motor is barely broken in. most marine motors will run 4000 hours plus with proper maintenance

Motor wont run at 80 psi, so your gauge is suspect.

could you just have rusty valve seats from a failing exhaust manifolds? you stated this was a salt water boat. most likely not flushed after runs, so most likely the valves look like this

what diagnostics did you do? I would at a minimum pull the exhaust manifolds and look at the exhaust ports. most likely just needs head work and new exhaust manifolds.

worst case, new heads.

Now, if you pull the manifolds, and the ports are all rusty, pull the heads. Most likely no need to go further than that.

However if you are dead set on rebuilding the whole motor......
the crank will tell you if you can just polish it, or you need to regrind. check prices, many times a new crank is cheaper than regrinding your current crank. rods are definitely cheaper to buy new than re-size
bore gauge will tell you what needs to be done on the bores and pistons.

head gasket was burned from one cyl to the other. Motor was actually not bad on the inside. We are going to bore it new pistons rods valve job and clean and paint everything. One piston started burning the edge and the cyl is a little scored . water pump had to be cut off on one bolt . salt was bad. also the coil has alot of rust around the metal edge . Im going to try and clean it and maybe make a new edge with JB weld. trying to save the expensive parts .

 

[wellcraftpower]

Just finishing up this task on an '03 Regal 2400LSR. Hopefully splashing the boat this coming weekend to verify the outdrive functions (DP-SM).
The single most important thing is to find a decent machine shop. Someone with a reputation for good work. They are becoming very hard to find nowadays, unfortunately.
How is it proceeding?

We have an awesome guy here in Wisconsin. He does not build the moters but mocks them up . Really nice shop he has and has been doing it for 25 years. He just finished my dart block . 509 with 871 dyer blower. Absolutely beautiful.

 

[wellcraftpower]

head gasket was burned from one cyl to the other. Motor was actually not bad on the inside. We are going to bore it new pistons rods valve job and clean and paint everything. One piston started burning the edge and the cyl is a little scored . water pump had to be cut off on one bolt . salt was bad. also the coil has alot of rust around the metal edge . Im going to try and clean it and maybe make a new edge with JB weld. trying to save the expensive parts .

My heads did not look like the heads in your picture.

 

[kd4pbs]

If you find someone who you can trust to assemble it, that’s even better. Nobody around here can do a better job for me than me.

 

[wellcraftpower]

Giving your money constrains and experience my suggestion is let the teardown be your guide. Develop your minimal basic plan on the inspection after teardown. And if still have some bucks to spare start adding in elements a la carte where the menu items are listed in priority order of need with expected cost of that menu item. That seems the most logical to me anyway….

yep right on. head gasket was tore between 4 and 6 . the piston edge looked like someone started grinding it and scoring on cyl wall. will bore 20 or 30 which ever cleans it up. rod pin was also very tight . trying to re-use roller lifters and cam. the salt really went after the components on outside of engine , Exited to sandblast and repaint everything., sending fuel injectors out for cleaning, . I want to sandblast the intake but am worried about the sand by the injector holes.

 

[wellcraftpower]

If you find someone who you can trust to assemble it, that’s even better. Nobody around here can do a better job for me than me.

Have put many engines together and no one other than me is doing it. My machinist is awesome. 350s are easy. been building those since i was 16.

 

[kd4pbs]

I baked the paint off of my intake, then soaked it in a mixture of molasses and water for almost a week. Then I hosed it down, primed it, and painted it. It worked out quite well. I imagine keeping it wet with some sort of phosphoric acid conversion solution like Ospho would work well too.

 

[wellcraftpower]

check your compression gauge, the engine will not run on 80 psi.
i have had couple run ins with bad gauges, pick up one from the local parts store for a loaner and see if your #'s are different from what you got earlier

I thought that's what the guy told me where i had it. Maybe he just said 2 cyl at 30 . The burned head gasket ones. and 180; on others . I believe they should be around 180. This motor was close to being destroyed if run longer.

 

[wellcraftpower]

I baked the paint off of my intake, then soaked it in a mixture of molasses and water for almost a week. Then I hosed it down, primed it, and painted it. It worked out quite well. I imagine keeping it wet with some sort of phosphoric acid conversion solution like Ospho would work well too.

you think sandblasting it is a bad idea

 

[kd4pbs]

Not at all. I’m sure your goal is to just remove rust and paint, so you won’t likely be staying in one spot long enough to cause any issues with the injector bores. I glass beaded several parts on mine, but the intake was just the right size to put in the oven and hit the self clean button. It sure did stink a lot, but the paint just disappeared, leaving just the rust for the molasses to attack.