That’s very helpful, thank you. Because before I knew it the entire thing was in pieces. The oil seal under the water impeller was shot. Once that was removed the fun began. Top drive shaft bearing was in pieces. Steel on aluminum, and two plus days later I have it out. Some scratches on aluminum surface. What should I put between the new bearing and old surface, if anything. I tore it down to hopefully find all the needle bearings.Thanks Jimmbo.
You saved me from picking through many boxs.
After a 10 day holiday in Alaska I’m back. Trip was great by the way. Lower unit is back together, and on the motor. Tomorrow we launch. I took spark plugs out and turned the flywheel. Feels right. I changed 2 oil seals, prop shaft, and the top drive shaft one under the water impeller. A few o’rings were in the kit. Bonus points. Also came with the seal on top of the impeller cup. At this point I’m surprised it worked at all last fall. I changed gear lube every time I ran it, no matter for how long. It was getting cleaner but more milky. Once I had it apart I’m pretty happy I didn’t see its condition at the start. I’d say I got lucky and it held together. I’ll see tomorrow if my luck holds.That’s very helpful, thank you. Because before I knew it the entire thing was in pieces. The oil seal under the water impeller was shot. Once that was removed the fun began. Top drive shaft bearing was in pieces. Steel on aluminum, and two plus days later I have it out. Some scratches on aluminum surface. What should I put between the new bearing and old surface, if anything. I tore it down to hopefully find all the needle bearings.
So when I disassembled the water pump after no water, and motor got warm. What I discovered was the key fell out of the drive shaft. I have it back together, and was careful to be sure the impeller was engaged as I put the housing in place. Thanks Jimmbo. I’ll give it another try tomorrow.As the Driveshaft is not bolted to the Pinion Gear, there will be Up and Down Movement, limited by the Key in the Pump, and when installed by the Crankshaft. Not sure what you mean with "Woodruff Key was in the Cup". Are you saying it is installed?
So, it is all together, and no water? Is the Overheat Bulb coming on? These engines used a Recirculating Cooling System, and don't have much discharge out the Idle Relief until after the Thermostat opens
I have had it one year. Got it running last October. I’ll open myself to mock and ridicule. After checking with three marine repairmen, each about my age. Old enough. I took out the thermostat, plastic thing and the spring and white ball thingy. After that it made water just fine, and the light never came on. It did come on the first time I ran it with old thermostat assembly. Each mechanic said it would run cool and not as efficient. I took that as use more fuel? Yes I have removed and cleaned that screen, and the one behind it prop. I also removed and cleaned both copper tubes. The power head base gasket was mostly gone the first time I ran it. More water coming out there than anywhere. Made water after that adventure, that’s when I started on the water intrusion affecting the gear lube. I am a 70 year old retired Carpenter, so this quite a learning experience. One more trip to the landing this morning, hoping I’ve got things lined up right this time.The stat is supposed to start opening around 138F. As I said it does use a Recirculating System, which is why there are two Pipes going to the Water Pump.
Have you taken that Cover, #28 on the Exploded Gearcase? I have found Crap in there, and it starved the Pump.
How long have you owned this Motor?
Okay I’ll bite. Explain to me why? Southern MN.You need to have that thermostat assembly in there.----Your location ?
Water pump issue resolved. Getting good flow. 3 trusted opinions on the thermostat. I’ll leave it out, please feel free to change my mind.Okay I’ll bite. Explain to me why? Southern MN.
I’m getting warm, not hot water out of the discharge. Once the system is full the discharge path would offer less resistance. I’m getting plenty of water. Jimmbo that makes good sense. The port side tube was dry and dirty. Is that the return tube. If it is, with the thermostat assembly removed, all water was going through the motor. It’s very easy to put the assembly in. I will give that a try. Thank youWithout the Stat, the Housing, the Ball and Spring, the Intended Water Flow Pattern compromised. The Spring maintains an approximate 1 Psi in the Cooling System when the Stat is Closed, but the Pressure from the Pump is higher, so the valve opens and the Water is sent back to the Pump, when the Stat opens the Water is discharged and the Pressure drops, closing the Ball Valve, with less or No water returning to the Water Pump. If the Parts above are removed, there is No Directional Control of the Water, and when the Engine is running, a lot more Water, regardless of Temp can be pulled back to the Water Pump, that Pipe will offer a Lower Pressure( some would call it suction) than the Discharge Path. If the Parts weren't needed, the Engineers wouldn't have put them in there, and the Parts did have a Cost.
Are you also of the mind that with the thermostat removed the motor will run cooler than intended. If so what would be the harm? Over heat to me would be catastrophic. I’ve changed the heat sensor, at the lower port side of the power head. If it runs less efficiently, more fuel less air. What’s the harm? Fouled plugs? More fuel also is more lubricant. With the thermostat out I ran it 4 different times. And it made water, never got hot. And like I said the port side copper tube had dry residue in it. Not plugged, just dry. Again, is that the return side of the cooling system? The issue with no water came as I was changing lower unit seals. Took a couple of tries to place the impeller correctly.Get a new Stat