Is it only a matter of time for leaks?

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AussieB

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 23, 2018
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42
Hi Guys,

I am considering getting a Super Sport. Is it only a matter of time until rivets leak?

I have my eye on both a mid 70's and mid 80's SS and they both look good and in original condition. They are both around the $5k mark.I have not reached out to the sellers and I'm not sure how many sellers would be honest and say "yeah she leaks like a sieve".

I realize there are no absolutes about this but I wouldn't be too happy spending $5k for one of these old girls and then having to rip the floor up. If it's more than likely, I would lead my offer with this information or shop for a boat half the price or less, knowing that I will rip up the floor.

Both have stated solid floor and transom.
 
MNhunter1

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,091
I personally would not look at a boat from the 70's/80's without expecting a transom and deck replacement. I've ripped up too many floors to discover what's hiding beneath. I also wouldn't pay anywhere close to 5K on an original 70's/80's 16SS unless it was outfitted with a newer motor/trailer of that value. You need to look at the complete package and price it accordingly.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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MNhunter1 said:
I personally would not look at a boat from the 70's/80's without expecting a transom and deck replacement. I've ripped up too many floors to discover what's hiding beneath. I also wouldn't pay anywhere close to 5K on an original 70's/80's 16SS unless it was outfitted with a newer motor/trailer of that value. You need to look at the complete package and price it accordingly.
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Screen name puts him in upside down land so that may be a fair price.
 
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AussieB

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Joined
Mar 23, 2018
Messages
42
MNhunter1 said:
I personally would not look at a boat from the 70's/80's without expecting a transom and deck replacement. I've ripped up too many floors to discover what's hiding beneath. I also wouldn't pay anywhere close to 5K on an original 70's/80's 16SS unless it was outfitted with a newer motor/trailer of that value. You need to look at the complete package and price it accordingly.
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Looking at the whole package makes sense. In the local market here those 2 are at the highest price point but both look in great condition. All the $1-3.5k boats look to have had a very rough life and needing a full resto.

Forgot to mention they are both 18.
 
C

cyclops222

Commander
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Mar 21, 2024
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Why would you ever think a 55 year old boat is not going to be endless rip out and replace everything. Including electrical parts and wiring.
No great running engine ? Go for a 15 to 30 minute test ride ?
You are trying to get us to encourage you to buy a dream boat. We can not do that.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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AussieB said:
Looking at the whole package makes sense. In the local market here those 2 are at the highest price point but both look in great condition. All the $1-3.5k boats look to have had a very rough life and needing a full resto.

Forgot to mention they are both 18.
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Mine had a pretty good 40 year life still needed a bunch of work but I did it and know it should be (mostly) ok. Unless you jump up to a much newer and more expensive welded you are in for work.

Scott is optimistic, again age and avail help and area to be worked on dependent:

Floor out, one to two days
All floor prep, one to four days depending on how you decide to finish it out
Replacing any cables while you are this far in, one days
New floor in, one day
Transom, two days on my outboard

Variables, you choose any improvements along the way or life happens or it is in fact leaking and then lots of variables on that. The 70s should not have foam the 80s will. Big part of a resto project.

So in theory a week off work without a life adding a helper working in a large barn will completely fix those boat.

Take both on the water for an hour of running and see where the starting point is.
 
A

AussieB

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Joined
Mar 23, 2018
Messages
42
redneck joe said:
Mine had a pretty good 40 year life still needed a bunch of work but I did it and know it should be (mostly) ok. Unless you jump up to a much newer and more expensive welded you are in for work.

Scott is optimistic, again age and avail help and area to be worked on dependent:

Floor out, one to two days
All floor prep, one to four days depending on how you decide to finish it out
Replacing any cables while you are this far in, one days
New floor in, one day
Transom, two days on my outboard

Variables, you choose any improvements along the way or life happens or it is in fact leaking and then lots of variables on that. The 70s should not have foam the 80s will. Big part of a resto project.

So in theory a week off work without a life adding a helper working in a large barn will completely fix those boat.

Take both on the water for an hour of running and see where the starting point is.
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I've read enough of the rebuilds and know how projects creep and agree your timeline is more realistic.

So do the 80's boats have pour in foam? If so that would add time to any work done, to remove. Did the pour in create more/any corrosion problems?

I'm not ready to take either out but will when the time comes. Right now I'm working through questions as they pop up as part of a pre purchase plan.
 
A

AussieB

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Mar 23, 2018
Messages
42
AussieB said:
I've read enough of the rebuilds and know how projects creep and agree your timeline is more realistic.

So do the 80's boats have pour in foam? If so that would add time to any work done, to remove. Did the pour in create more/any corrosion problems?

I'm not ready to take either out but will when the time comes. Right now I'm working through questions as they pop up as part of a pre purchase plan.
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Just asked chatgpt and it stated late 70's was the start of pour in foam.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
Messages
12,530
Mine is 82 and had pour in just on the outside sections. Still a b.

I had no corrosion but others have had, not sure what conditions lead to that.

Here is my thread, longish and I like to talk to myself but should be able to skim for the highlights.

82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

so... it will begin this spring would like to be back on the water in a few weeks. I can take the time off but want to have most of the research, supplies and such in place to complete quickly once it becomes my full time job to complete. Have a leak i cannot identify from the outside and...
forums.iboats.com forums.iboats.com


Speaking of, off to the lake for a few hours (then home work on some plumbing)
 
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cyclops222

Commander
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Mar 21, 2024
Messages
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If the pour in foam is OPEN CELL type ? Could have hundred of pounds of water in the foam. Careful checking of all the below waterline rivets is in order. My 1986 Riveted Hull has never leaked. All floatation foam is under seat benches. Replaced Plywood transom.
 
IslandExplorer

IslandExplorer

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
530
Supersports are great boats. Simple and sweet. A decent 70's hull could maybe be a slight advantage not having any pour in foam to water log and/or rip out if you end up opening it up to buck and or gluvit the inside. Great stuff for stopping as well as preventing leaks in a riveted hull.

I like knowing it's all been cleaned and inspected by me under there so not the worst thing to open the floor if you can. I wouldn't avoid a newer hull just bc of the foam difference though. I'd say get the sub 5k boat since you're better off knowing her inside and out and spend the savings on nice new plywood, brand new sump pumps + hoses, fresh marine wire, etc. for the critical under floor areas and know it's all new and sealed up good down there. 5k I'd want to see pics of this work having already been done but that's unlikely.
 
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