Engine overheats after water heater failure

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
344
The boat is a 2004 Chaparral Signature 5.7L MPI

I don't know if it's related but it happened at the same time.

The las week end, I was 2 days on the lake, and decided to open the hatch to check for a water leak since there was a lot of water the last time I used the boat.

What I saw, with the engine idling, was a water fall of water coming from the water heater nipple.
Since it is the original 2004 unit, corrosion was my guess.
I took the boat out of the water, drained the bilge, and maybe at least 20 gallons of water came out.
The rear bilge pump didn't pump that water since the boat has a nose down attitude, and the water was collecting at the bow.

What I remember, while going back to the marina, the temperature was a bit low, like 148 instead of 154. But no overheating.

So, at home, I removed the water heater, and to simulate the water heater circuit, I jumped the hose from the big hose at the thermostat on starboard, to the engine block on port.

I tested the engine on the hose, and the temperature slowly climbed to 185 in 20 minutes.
So I thought my bypass was not a good way to do it, so I removed it, and plugged the 2 nipples and tested again, with the same result.

So, I went and bought a Volvo thermostat, even if the one there was only 2 months old (Volvo unit).
Tested again, same result.

I looked at the impeller, it looks brand new, because it is. A Volvo part that I replaced last summer at the same time as the RWP bearing and double lip Vitton seal.

The manifolds and risers are barely warm. I can hold my hand on them for a day if I want.

So now I'm looking for suggestions.

Is it a different problem that happened at the same time or is it related to the water heater problem???
 

kd4pbs

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
136
No reason hooking the water heater gozinta to the water heater comesouta would make it overheat. Just bypass the water heater with a pipe, or use a heater hose to connect where the water heater hoses connected on your engine. That being written, a very miniscule amount of cooling potential will of course be lost: the amount the cold water in the water heater used to cool the engine as the water in the heater was being heated.
Perhaps 185 on the hose is normal? I know for a fact that with my 5.7Gi, even at idle it needs more water than the spigot and hose can deliver.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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The manifolds and risers are barely warm. I can hold my hand on them for a day if I want.
If your sure the gauge is close enough to be correct, than there is a blockage somewhere and the water heater was just coincidence
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
344
If your sure the gauge is close enough to be correct, than there is a blockage somewhere and the water heater was just coincidence
I have the gauge on the dashboard plus a digital display in my Garmin. So I'm pretty sure my reading is good.

Where would a blockage occur and make it slowly overheat?
There is water coming out of the outdrive.
...maybe not enough...

could it be the circulation pump? Can it be tested??
It's not leaking, not noisy...
Are the blades stainless or plastic?

Is removing the thermostat a good test???
 
Last edited:

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
344
No reason hooking the water heater gozinta to the water heater comesouta would make it overheat. Just bypass the water heater with a pipe, or use a heater hose to connect where the water heater hoses connected on your engine. That being written, a very miniscule amount of cooling potential will of course be lost: the amount the cold water in the water heater used to cool the engine as the water in the heater was being heated.
Perhaps 185 on the hose is normal? I know for a fact that with my 5.7Gi, even at idle it needs more water than the spigot and hose can deliver.
Yes that's what I did, bypass the water heater with the hose, but overheat occurred.
The temperature reading is from the sensor at the thermostat housing, that the computer uses. And the data is sent to my Garmin. So the 185 and climbing is what the computer sees at the thermostat. Normally it is 154.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,212
Clear hose on pump line at thermostat housing

Remove serpentine belt, remove the large hose on circulating pump and stick a thin screw drive up it., than see if you can hold the vanes while turning the pulley
 
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