69' Whaler Nauset

redneck joe

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Trying to post screenshots of the hull weights
See posts 7 and 9

 

Scott Danforth

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Joe, was trying to hot-link over to a continuous wave forum. vs trying to cut-n-paste.
 

redneck joe

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AI Overview


The 1969 Boston Whaler Nauset 16 bare hull weight is approximately 500 to 510 lbs. This is a standard factory specification for the boat at the time of its manufacture.

To confirm the exact weight of a specific boat, you may need to check the boat's documentation or perform an actual weight test.
 

robertw007

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AI Overview


The 1969 Boston Whaler Nauset 16 bare hull weight is approximately 500 to 510 lbs. This is a standard factory specification for the boat at the time of its manufacture.

To confirm the exact weight of a specific boat, you may need to check the boat's documentation or perform an actual weight test.
Ew.
I did have the console and rigging on it but I can't see that weighing 240lbs. Maybe 50 if I'm being generous.
There's a small lake less than a mile from the landfill, when I put it in it was sitting pretty high, less than a foot for sure.
 

robertw007

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Assuming it actually weighed no more than 510 out the factory..
Is 210-220lb overweight crossing a line of functional use if everything is solid and tap test is good everywhere?
I reckon at that point it's all about, is the handling acceptable.
 

Scott Danforth

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continuous wave had a table that was closer to your reading, that was hull with console and listed dry weight at ~750 for the 16'-7" long hull.
 

robertw007

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continuous wave had a table that was closer to your reading, that was hull with console and listed dry weight at ~750 for the 16'-7" long hull.
Well that's a relief.
I ran a drill bit in the transom in a few places. Darkest was at the drain tubes, they were awful when I pulled em out. About 1/4" from outboard side the tubes, mainly the lower one.. was falling apart. Rest of the tube looked like old brass. Inboard side wasn't damp. Out was.
Stopped getting darker wood about 2 inches left and right.. but it goes down almost to the bottom. Dark wood wasn't soaked but damp. Still had wood texture it if any of that makes sense.
Which is where I had a decent chunk of gel coming up, about 5 inches in diameter.. Center roughly lines up with drain tube.
I'm thinking bc the original gel was good, the top coat (different color) was coming off bc previous owner did a bad rush job. Put it on thin, and a long time ago. When I ground back the top coat of gel (previous owner applied), widened the wound to get to where the peel or layer of gel wasn't separated from the chat, the coat under was solid. Not separated from the glass.
Other than that, no bubbling, no swelling, no other signs I've read about to indicate transom should be replaced. Bearing in mind I haven't been doing this for years.
Hope all that makes sense. Partly feel I'm babbling.
 
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redneck joe

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You are babbling, it's ok. New boat babbling is always ok.

So do you have the console to weigh or were you just taking a WAG?
 

robertw007

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You are babbling, it's ok. New boat babbling is always ok.

So do you have the console to weigh or were you just taking a WAG?
Not totally wag, educated estimate šŸ˜‚. It's a small console made of fiberglass. I figured even if it weighs 50lb itself. I'm still fairly high.
I can get it offa there and weigh it.
Steering, throttle/ shift cables and wires can't be that much.
 

robertw007

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continuous wave had a table that was closer to your reading, that was hull with console and listed dry weight at ~750 for the 16'-7" long hull.
Hey Scott, I wasn't able to find that table. If 750lb is the case. I'm set. If not I've got to consider alternative avenues.
I'm basically at a cross roads today.. Cause I'm itchin for some river.
either
A. I move forward, get my jack plate on run my new fuel line and work on getting the motor on so I can play for a month or two before the whole paint job part begins..
Or
B. Drill several 3/8 holes along the bottom of the transom and hoist the front of my boat up, put 2x 1" - 1.5" holes in the deck about 3ft from the transom and hookup a wet dry vac to start blowing air in there to see how much water I can get out of it. At worst consider rebuilding it if that don't do much.
 

MikeSchinlaub

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I wouldn't drill holes through the transom. It'll just be added body and paint work when you eventually replace it.

I know it sucks, but once water gets in the only way to be sure is to cut into it and start removing wet material. Otherwise, you can't be sure you got it all.
 
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