HoosierHacker89
Seaman
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2024
- Messages
- 70
Awesome! Yall have been super helpful so far.
Trailer has a couple of those side bunks. I took off just to make sure I can get back on the trailer easy. To fit width.Extend those bunks rearward to support that transom, then add a keel roller on that cross member so the bow doesn't hit. Do yourself a big favor and add some side bunks to keep boat centered. You could just raise the front mount of the bunks to get the bow a little higher. My boat sits at an angle to the trailer tongue ( bow is higher) makes shallow ramp launch and loading much easier. I would keep the rear bunk kount as low as possible to help with shallow ramps.
I have a couple 2x4x8 I’ve been saving for such an occurrence. I’ve seen some guys say pressure treaded good, good some say not good. What say you?
That’s a tool box in the backgroundThe middle and back of the trailer & boat look very good together. Leave that alone.
Bow pictures are not very clear. Looks like a lot of needless stuff on it. What is that massive black painted part ? Can you post a side view of the winch area parts ?
If that were my trailer, it would have a keel roller on each crossmember. Ask any mfgr....the strongest part of any boat is the keel ! Just be sure the bunks support the majority of the load. Folks that cause damage to their hulls/keels don't have enough rollers. My 1983 Aluminum boat sat on a roller trailer its entire life, it had twice as many rollers as most trailers, to this day no dents or damage...Trailer has a couple of those side bunks. I took off just to make sure I can get back on the trailer easy. To fit width.
Not all are made that way, rather than recessing the cross members they add keel rollers. Many trailers are designed for heavy fiberglass boats and other are designed for lighter aluminum boats. Some trailers are just bunks only and other are all roller trailers, and others are a combination. Most can be setup for any boat if the weight rating is ok.I don’t know they can be raised without some external parts. I’m sure I can buy something though. I just learned last night there is a difference between Jon and v hull trailers. (I’m sure everyone else knows this already) The cross members on the v hull trailer will be recessed to prevent just this.
No pressure treated wood !! Regular wood 2x4's work fine. Cover them with carpet but leave the bottom open....this is so water is not trapped and the wood will dry over time. Replaced my last bunk trailer with plain old wood and they lasted 8 years. Once you have everything setup, replacing a bunk is not hard, so long life is not a big issue. Just keep the bottom side of it he bunk open to help dry. Looking at your pics....you said your ramp is shallow, hard to load/unload....so lower the rear bunk support if you can, the lower the boat, the less water needed. My ramps are shallow, my boat runs uphill toward the winch to make launch/load much easier. Keeps the stern closer to the water so much easier to L&L...I have a couple 2x4x8 I’ve been saving for such an occurrence. I’ve seen some guys say pressure treaded good, good some say not good. What say you?
I agree, however, I would try raising the front to get the bow eye higher and lower the rear of the bunks to get a better launch in shallow water. No law that says the keel must be parallel to the tongue, if you look closely, you will see many boats with the bow higher on the trailer, common practice for launching on shallow ramps.Right now the Winch is too high on the Winch Stand, the Strap should be pulling Horizontal-Level to the Bow Eye. However once you Rise the Bunks, it may be fine.
Not after he raises the bunks like he stated..Which took weight off of most of the Bunks, and concentrated it on the Bow Roller, and the rear of the Bunks