destroyed 2 gimbal bearing tools trying to dislodge a seized bearing. still stuck

[stang320]

i have an sx drive with a gimbal bearing from hell. the 1st bearing tool i admit was a bit worn out and it pulled tight through the bearing, but the 2nd tool is brand new this morning and man, i am proud of how badly this tool is destroyed. not only did it bend the plate that sits against the gimbal helmet but it also split the hollow threaded shaft.
i am not sure where to go from this point but i already told the boat owner that the engine may have to come out and then we can punch the bearing from the back side.
the bearing is in backwards so the notches are facing the engine . with the bearing this way, i can not pivot the bearing a nd remove it that way . i don't think i can get in there with a sawzall cause the bearing is right up against the inner seal.

anyone have any better ideas?

 

[kd4pbs]

Slide hammer?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Cut off wheel, split inner race. Then bead of weld on outer race

 

[Bt Doctur]

does yours look like this? under $50

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is also simply drilling the outer race

 

[Scott06]

i have an sx drive with a gimbal bearing from hell. the 1st bearing tool i admit was a bit worn out and it pulled tight through the bearing, but the 2nd tool is brand new this morning and man, i am proud of how badly this tool is destroyed. not only did it bend the plate that sits against the gimbal helmet but it also split the hollow threaded shaft.
i am not sure where to go from this point but i already told the boat owner that the engine may have to come out and then we can punch the bearing from the back side.
the bearing is in backwards so the notches are facing the engine . with the bearing this way, i can not pivot the bearing a nd remove it that way . i don't think i can get in there with a sawzall cause the bearing is right up against the inner seal.

anyone have any better ideas?

I used an axle bearing puller, foot of 5/8" fine threaded rod and a piece of C channel

this was after the bearing broke the jaws on my big F'ing slide hammer, was original had been in there 20 years but never got wet. Not sure if it was crooked in there or what never had so much issue

https://www.harborfreight.com/rear-axle-bearing-puller-set-3-piece-59821.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901271210&campaignid=21901271210&utm_content=171677806502&adsetid=171677806502&product=59821&store=176&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901271210&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4elZJjqXwdGYuCz2ZTUP7pCS&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxofA0_fJjwMVbifUAR3eHBW4EAQYASABEgIx3fD_BwE

 

[pae0332]

does yours look like this? under $50
View attachment 411364

 

[pae0332]

anyone have one of these?

 

[muc]

Might want to use your gimbal bearing install tool and make sure the bearing is straight. I'm guessing you either cocked it when you first started pulling or the last install wasn't straight. I was a "lazy" tech. If the bearing didn't come out with a few slide hammer pulls, I would drive it back in. You've got the install tool right there anyways. Almost always they come out with 2-3 slams after doing that.

I never liked the tool you posted, the one @Bt Doctur posted is better. But still the bell housing can move. I liked the slide hammer better ---- less set up time and I could make sure I was getting a straight pull.

Don't worry about the seal behind the bearing --- it's more for looks then anything else. It's job was to keep the grease from the gimble and u-joints out of the engine compartment. U-joints and gimbal bearings are all sealed now.