Alpha 1 Gen 2 - leak & transom service questions

[ShoalSurvivor]

1999 Stingray 4.3 - owned since 2013. 216 hours on the meter.
Original bellows (25years); shift cable & cable boot replaced in 2016; impeller serviced regularly; trim sensors have been disengaged and “bypassed” since 2005. Primarily used in salt-water, but well rinsed with Saltaway and dry stored in warm garage with drive down after each use.

She started taking an a little water at end of the season. I was able to see a few drips down the inner transom wall below the Y-Pipe, but could not locate source. Water accumulates when engine is not running. I’m considering connecting hose directly to intake hose and running to see if any water leaks from engine, just to rule out any engine leaks.
Q1: Any reason NOT to run this test, or are there other things to test at this stage?

I’ve decided to tear it down to inspect and perform a transom service, and also replace the trim sensors, but have a few questions.

Drive has been removed. I found NO WATER in either u-joint or exhaust bellows. The gimbal bearing is clean and rotates smoothly with no play. Universal joints are in excellent shape.

I’d like to avoid pulling the gimbal bearing if there is no reason to replace it. (I don’t own those tools). The seal is probably original, but seems to be doing its job.
Q2: Ok to leave bearing and seal in?

Q3: assuming the leak is not affecting the 9yo shift cable, is there any reason to replace it, if no shift issues?

Q4: Is the bellows sleeve reusable, or should it be replaced? If replaced, and I slice to bellows to remove the bell housing, can I just tap it out of the housing (carefully) from behind? I've seen a lot of chatter about difficulty installing sleeve - any tricks on using install tool?

Q5: Parts-wise, I’m looking at Mercruiser or Sierra for bellows kit, and avoiding the cheap aftermarket versions. Any strong recc on Merc or Sierra (a little less expensive)

Q6: Same question for Trim sensors - Mercruiser or Sierra ok?

Q7: is the bellows tool needed for Gen2 with the sleeve, or can it be finagled on?

Q8: should I replace the shift shaft busing with the new dual seal bushing while I have it apart?

Thank you!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Q5 & Q6: use Merc/Quicksilver parts. This job is too much of a pain to mess around with anything but Merc parts.

 

[tpenfield]

I'd be finding the leak first as it may impact the rest of your planned work. I would think you could run the engine on the 'muffs' to determine if the engine is leaking.

Keep in mind that when the boat is in the water, the exhaust bellows is full of water as is the lower portion of the Y-pipe.

The leak could be at the transom or even the Y-pipe.

Use your phone or even an 'inspection camera' to find the leak. Guess-work does not really get you very far.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

best I could tell, the drip was accumulating at the base of the y-pipe. I searched to see if it was above that point and running down but could not see or find any other source.

i already pulled the drive for impeller service and figured I’d inspect the bellows while I was there, and thats when I decided to tear down farther and get the transom and trim sensor work done, which I have put off for a while.
I agree with finding leak first, but since the drive is drained and removed, muffs or lake test aren’t an option, which is why I am considering the direct hose connection.

Wouldn’t that help me isolate engine leak and all other transom entry points (except the intake hose, exhaust bellows and y-pipe?

after more research, im now gonna focus on the y-pipe. Could be corrosion, gasket or bolts. I replaced the exhaust manifolds last year and flappers were in good shape. I inspected inside y-pipe for corrosion but didn’t see any. I Will check for loose bolts, exterior corrosion, run and check for gasket leakage.

 

[Pmt133]

I had a leak after rebuilding my boat and resealing the transom that drove me crazy. It ended up being the shift cable bellow that was damaged from new. It is hard to see without a camera but mine looked like the y pipe leaking as well and was always worse running. If you decide to do the gimbal, you can rent a slide hammer at any auto parts store then when done you bring it back and get a credit on it. That being said, if it isn't making noise and its a greasable bearing... just leave it.

Since you're going through the work, I'd replace the shift cable but thats just me.

I only reccomend merc at this point. Sierra on my last job lasted only like 6 or 7 years while the merc went nearly 20. The price difference at the time for the full kit with bearing was less than 90$.

I haven't had trim sensors... well my entire life. But again, I'd go merc as that job also sucks.

 

[Grub54891]

Mine was the trim hose gasket on the very bottom of the housing. Bellows and made sure it was all good, put in water and leak still there. New gasket cured it.

 

[Bondo]

1999 Stingray 4.3 - owned since 2013. 216 hours on the meter.
Original bellows (25years); shift cable & cable boot replaced in 2016; impeller serviced regularly; trim sensors have been disengaged and “bypassed” since 2005. Primarily used in salt-water, but well rinsed with Saltaway and dry stored in warm garage with drive down after each use.

She started taking an a little water at end of the season. I was able to see a few drips down the inner transom wall below the Y-Pipe, but could not locate source. Water accumulates when engine is not running. I’m considering connecting hose directly to intake hose and running to see if any water leaks from engine, just to rule out any engine leaks.
Q1: Any reason NOT to run this test, or are there other things to test at this stage?

I’ve decided to tear it down to inspect and perform a transom service, and also replace the trim sensors, but have a few questions.

Drive has been removed. I found NO WATER in either u-joint or exhaust bellows. The gimbal bearing is clean and rotates smoothly with no play. Universal joints are in excellent shape.
View attachment 412921View attachment 412922
I’d like to avoid pulling the gimbal bearing if there is no reason to replace it. (I don’t own those tools). The seal is probably original, but seems to be doing its job.
Q2: Ok to leave bearing and seal in?

Q3: assuming the leak is not affecting the 9yo shift cable, is there any reason to replace it, if no shift issues?

Q4: Is the bellows sleeve reusable, or should it be replaced? If replaced, and I slice to bellows to remove the bell housing, can I just tap it out of the housing (carefully) from behind? I've seen a lot of chatter about difficulty installing sleeve - any tricks on using install tool?

Q5: Parts-wise, I’m looking at Mercruiser or Sierra for bellows kit, and avoiding the cheap aftermarket versions. Any strong recc on Merc or Sierra (a little less expensive)

Q6: Same question for Trim sensors - Mercruiser or Sierra ok?

Q7: is the bellows tool needed for Gen2 with the sleeve, or can it be finagled on?

Q8: should I replace the shift shaft busing with the new dual seal bushing while I have it apart?

Thank you!

Ayuh,..... #2, Sure, no problem,.....
#3, sure, no problem,....
#4, No, if you remove it, replace it,.....
#5, Mercruiser/ Quicksilver only,....
#7, If you spray quicksilver "Power Tune" all over the area, you can slip the locking ring in with yer fingers, no tool needed,.....

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Thanks for your responses.
When running with hose connected to intake, please verify that I should start it first, then turn on water (to avoid forcing water through the block) and turn off water before killing engine.

Thanks

 

[Scott06]

best I could tell, the drip was accumulating at the base of the y-pipe. I searched to see if it was above that point and running down but could not see or find any other source.

i already pulled the drive for impeller service and figured I’d inspect the bellows while I was there, and thats when I decided to tear down farther and get the transom and trim sensor work done, which I have put off for a while.
I agree with finding leak first, but since the drive is drained and removed, muffs or lake test aren’t an option, which is why I am considering the direct hose connection.

Wouldn’t that help me isolate engine leak and all other transom entry points (except the intake hose, exhaust bellows and y-pipe?

after more research, im now gonna focus on the y-pipe. Could be corrosion, gasket or bolts. I replaced the exhaust manifolds last year and flappers were in good shape. I inspected inside y-pipe for corrosion but didn’t see any. I Will check for loose bolts, exterior corrosion, run and check for gasket leakage.

if the Y pipe was leaking and you stick a hose in bellhousing the water should go through the engine and leak out the Y pipe, engine running or not.

I think the places above the Y pipe that could leak are driveshaft bellows, water in pipe fitting, steering shaft seal. Not sure if shift bellows or oil line to drive could leak there.

You may have to reinstall the drive get a scope camera and put it back in the water to figure it out. These can be really difficult to figure out.

Any chance the transom is rotted and leaking around the gimbal housing?

Per your other comments no the sleeve holding bellows to bellhousing is not reusable, generally it gets beat up taking it out. To put it in I used some pieces of PVC storm drain fittings I had laying around that fit the OD of it and used a BFH to push on it. Power tune helps as lube to slide on the bellows. I found this easier if you have a helper, I had to keep the bellhousing parallel to gimbal housing to keep the bellows from sliding out of the bellhousing ( I think there is a lip in a groove). Also yes ok to keep existing shift cable. Mine shifted so good when I replaced the bellows (2004 boat) 3 years ago I left the cable as I didnt want to mess with it.

I would stay away from sierra senders as I "saved" a few bucks using them and trim gauge never really worked right. On that bellows and impellers I have found the OEM parts to be worth the money in longevity and fit.

 

[Bt Doctur]

rot in transom, corrosion of the Y pipe or corrosion of the transom housing
May have to pull the motor to determine what part it is

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Ok, plan for today:
1) hose in Ypipe to see if leak appears
2) if yes, then check for loose screws and see if tightening them resolves leak
3) also, inspect ypipe and transom for source and/or corrosion (leaking or not)
4) order inspection camera, drive gasket; transom service kit, sleeve, shift shaft bushings, and gimble pivot tool for future use.
question: i can snake a camera in the ypipe to inspect. Should I be able to access the two smaller transom ports from inside y-pipe, or would I need to pull the bell housing to access those ports?

next steps: reinstall drive for day of harbor leak detection fun With inspection camera

next: tear down bell housing to inspect transom mount, and all protrusions.

next: blaster on engine mounting bolts.