That's the older one. Either buy a vintage harness or they sell a replacement harness that converts it to the red plug. More wires, more options and not hard.
Or I make my own with aftermarket connectors.
Crosbys example doesn't work for your motor but it's what it could be.
You can look up...
No key is needed. Unplug the motor and jump the starter solenoid. Spark gap test of 3/8 or better while checking compression numbers.
Easy to do and gives you a wealth of info.
Post the results.
Cut it and use a good marine but splice or pull the pin. Rubbing alcohol and a MacGyver tool works great. You need to know.
I've seen and experienced what Nordin is talking about. Tested fine but wasn't. Micro voltage doesn't count sometimes.
Probably not the fuel filter, it's the overflow from a flooding situation but pictures will prove. Get an OEM service manual....
Intake was full of dirt? Explain more please.
Just blow some water through all those rubber hoses, try to reverse flush and put it all back together and test. 152° is not reached overheat yet but was probably going to. Has any of the paint yellowed on the head or around the block area? That might indicate that it had been overheated that...
Rubber motor mounts....I disagree with a power loss but the motor not shaking so bad is better which usually happens at idle speeds.
As you know those upper internal bolts that snap from abuse could definitely be catastrophic.
I usually just go with it on 50 year old motors.
A partially plugged thermostat could be problematic yes, open or not. Doesn't affect the tell tale so yes there is a high percent the problem is still lurking.
Always frustrating.
