Can't tell from the diagram, I'm an A1G2 guy. Is the tab washer you reference above the one that locks the prop on after it's tightened? Just tryin to understand. So it's believed with a counter rotating prop it spun loose and this is what caused the water intrusion?
I'll add bellows, shift cables, u-joints, alignment, breaking trim sender wires, multiple avenues for leaks requiring yearly drive pulls and the ability to be a circus contortionist.
The 2004 Lexus talked about in my original post had a camera but was small and not very clear so I never used it for backing the trailer. I did use it for hitching up.
Not a deal breaker, just wondering what to expect if I go that route. I suppose the same could be true for a modern SUV also. Views out the back are getting less and less and relying more on cameras.
Shopping for a new tow vehicle. For the last 15 years I've towed with a 2004 Lexus GX 470. My boat is 21 foot. When backing the trailer to retrieve the boat I can stretch up and turn and look and still see the back 1/4 of the trailer (it has no guide posts although I realize they could be...
Same here. I've had auto 4WD for many years and to my knowledge it has never kicked in. However, I'm inland on river and lakes where there's no tidal waters covering ramps twice a day and keeping them slimy. Most ramps where I'm at (Lake Cumberland) are ripped concrete.
I think mechanical limited slip differentials are becoming a thing of the past. Most today are electronic brake-based. Can anyone with a 2WD truck with a brake-based limited slip share their experience on boat ramps? I'm considering such a buy in the future to tow a 4000 lb. rig.
I had a boat that would most always do that. I could never figure out why. I think it just has to do with the geometry of the bunks vs everything else. Ended up just living with it. It was a custom trailer welded. Nothing was adjustable.
I launch solo so the calipers sit in the water under pressure sometimes for several minutes. Having just lubed my sliders, as said in post 6 above, I was very pleased that there was very little water intrusion. There was, however, very little lube if any on em.
I drove to the boat today and lubed the slider bolts. I applied caliper grease to a Q-tip and lubed in the inner part of the boot that squeezes the bolt and lubed the bolt also. Should be good to go. I have UFP/Dexter DB35s galvanized only but I'm in fresh (Kentucky).
I've worked on the calipers for my boat trailer but never on automotive calipers. Due to the fact that boat trailer calipers are routinely dunked in water I was wondering if the boots for the slider bolts were made more water proof than their auto counterparts. If they are indeed tighter and...
