No water coming out of the exhaust on muffs

Scott06

Scott06

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DuKn said:
This exact order?
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More or less . Look at plugs see what they look like , will tell you a bit on what’s going on.

fuel filter is number one default check for run ability issues ,timing just check doesn’t need to be to gnats azz just more or less in spec.
dist cap you would be surprised how much green corrosion is on brass contacts.

carb rebuild is not unlikely especially if you play with idle mixture and it doesn’t change idle quality.good clean idle circuit start with 1.5-2 turns out ( basic rule of thumb). Should be able to get it to idle nice keep going rich until you Stumble, then Go lean to Stumble. If it doesn’t react to changes idle circuit is plugged with crud and needs rebuild.

its not rocket science just check off the boxes before you tear stuff apart.
 
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DuKn

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Scott06 said:
More or less . Look at plugs see what they look like , will tell you a bit on what’s going on.

fuel filter is number one default check for run ability issues ,timing just check doesn’t need to be to gnats azz just more or less in spec.
dist cap you would be surprised how much green corrosion is on brass contacts.

carb rebuild is not unlikely especially if you play with idle mixture and it doesn’t change idle quality.good clean idle circuit start with 1.5-2 turns out ( basic rule of thumb). Should be able to get it to idle nice keep going rich until you Stumble, then Go lean to Stumble. If it doesn’t react to changes idle circuit is plugged with crud and needs rebuild.

its not rocket science just check off the boxes before you tear stuff apart.
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Took spark plug out for cyl 1 and seen it had a crack on it, seems to be running rich. See photos
 

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DuKn

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Gonna order new cap, wire and plugs and then adjust idle mix, i’ll update once i get it all done.
 
Scott06

Scott06

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DuKn said:
Gonna order new cap, wire and plugs and then adjust idle mix, i’ll update once i get it all done.
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Ame sure the choke is fully opening too. When you adjust the idle mix going in (lean) at some point it should stumble. If not possible float level and or needle and seat is keeping fuel level in bowl too high and hence being really rich.
 
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DuKn

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Any of this looks like it need to be replaced?
 

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DuKn

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Also, does anyone know what part this is, the wire was barley on (purple/yellow), i’ve looked at a lot of diagrams and couldn’t find the piece.
 

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Bondo

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DuKn said:
Also, does anyone know what part this is, the wire was barley on (purple/yellow), i’ve looked at a lot of diagrams and couldn’t find the piece.
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Ayuh,..... The electric choke,....
 
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DuKn

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Scott06 said:
No what do lugs on cap look like? Mine tend to get green oxidation after a few years.
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They looked fine, but i just put a new cap and rotor on anyways, gonna change plugs and wire tomorrow, you think the electric choke wire being real loose had something to do with it?
 
Scott06

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DuKn said:
They looked fine, but i just put a new cap and rotor on anyways, gonna change plugs and wire tomorrow, you think the electric choke wire being real loose had something to do with it?
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Depends on if it was loose enough that choke wouldn’t open. If choke stayed closed would expect it eventually would foul the plugs and not run

Watch what the choke is doing when u get it running
 
ESGWheel

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A loose connection like this can sometimes work (like its tight) and sometimes not (choke will not fully open due to poor connection). The point: post watching what it does, if the choke does fully open this does not mean the loose connection will cause it to not fully open on the next cycle. In other words, you can get a false indication all is good.

You may be well familiar with these spade type connectors, but if not, taking a pair of pliers and gently squeezing on the rounded ends is the way to tighten them up. See pic for a mockup of what I mean. Be careful, only a little squeeze is needed. Push it back on and pull it off > does it feel tight? Good, do it again to help clean it up and get a good connection. Still loose? Pliers again with a little more squeeze.

Terminal Connector.png
 
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DuKn

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ESGWheel said:
A loose connection like this can sometimes work (like its tight) and sometimes not (choke will not fully open due to poor connection). The point: post watching what it does, if the choke does fully open this does not mean the loose connection will cause it to not fully open on the next cycle. In other words, you can get a false indication all is good.

You may be well familiar with these spade type connectors, but if not, taking a pair of pliers and gently squeezing on the rounded ends is the way to tighten them up. See pic for a mockup of what I mean. Be careful, only a little squeeze is needed. Push it back on and pull it off > does it feel tight? Good, do it again to help clean it up and get a good connection. Still loose? Pliers again with a little more squeeze.

View attachment 407272
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That was my plan, gonna give it a go tomorrow and see how it runs after words, but if choke was wide open the whole time it would explain why my plugs were black and was running rich, I hope.
 
Scott06

Scott06

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DuKn said:
That was my plan, gonna give it a go tomorrow and see how it runs after words, but if choke was wide open the whole time it would explain why my plugs were black and was running rich, I hope.
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No the opposite, if choke was closed the whole time it would explain why plugs are black and soot covered. When doing a cold start stabbing the throttle a couple times does two things. Sets the choke as when cold the choke will close , second the accelerator pump will push some fuel into the intake to prime engine. Leave the throttle lever at. Fast idle setting as marine carbs have no fast idle cam like automotive carbs.

with choke closed engine will pull more Fuel into the airstream. This is great for a couple min to create a richer mixture until the engine gets warm. If due to lack of 12 v at the choke element or a stuck linkage choke doesn’t open , the fuel mix will stay rich and foul the plugs Probably to the point where the engine will not run .
 
Lou C

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When the choke is closed it essentially creates an additional restriction in the Venturi relative to the throttle plate and that increases the Bernoulli effect which lowers the air pressure in the venturi relative to the air pressure in the float bowl. So more fuel is pushed into the venturi when the choke is closed, enriching the fuel mix.
One of the issues with electric chokes is if you lose power or ground to the heating element it will cool off and the spring will contract & close the choke. The default position is closed. The old style hot air or divorced well type chokes didn’t have this problem and were actually more reliable.
 
Scott06

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Lou C said:
When the choke is closed it essentially creates an additional restriction in the Venturi relative to the throttle plate and that increases the Bernoulli effect which lowers the air pressure in the venturi relative to the air pressure in the float bowl. So more fuel is pushed into the venturi when the choke is closed, enriching the fuel mix.
One of the issues with electric chokes is if you lose power or ground to the heating element it will cool off and the spring will contract & close the choke. The default position is closed. The old style hot air or divorced well type chokes didn’t have this problem and were actually more reliable.
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either of them the element can be turned to force it open. When I had the element on my old boat just twisted the element such that it never came on. Ran it like that for many years, don't really need it much in warmer weather anyways.
 
Lou C

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Sure you can do that; here the choke is only really needed at the very beginning and end of the season, for me I’d prefer to have a manual choke just have to find one with a cable long enough for a boat lol!
 
Scott06

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Lou C said:
Sure you can do that; here the choke is only really needed at the very beginning and end of the season, for me I’d prefer to have a manual choke just have to find one with a cable long enough for a boat lol!
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Exactly -only time I had an issue with the no choke was when I took the boat out in mid october (upstate NY) cold wet and rainy weekend in the 50's. a few min of warm up at fast idle was good to go.
 
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DuKn

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Gave it a start today, started strong like it did last season, still steam and/or white smoke coming out but i’m hoping it was just humidity since it was 77% today. I replaced my plugs and wires and noticed the the ignition coil wire was rusted and very corroded as well. Let it idle for around 5-10 minutes and the gauge got over 175 and i shut it off, that’s with the oem quicksilver muffs.
 
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