Installing Bravo3 Sterndrive

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Steve51

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Sep 26, 2009
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Hi, I wondered if someone can help please.

This is the first time I have tried installing a Bravo 3 Sterndrive and it seems to be stuck at the point shown in the photo. I cannot seem to get it passed the threads although everything “appears” to be lined up and well greased.

This is a brand new installation with a new engine. The alignment checks o/k with the alignment bar with the “grooves” all around and the bar goes in and out with light finger force.

I am using a 1 ton engine hoist and the second black strap was used as an experiment to see if it was a hoist angle issue. I am limited by height on the hoist due to the boat stern platform, but the stud holes all line up. My guess is that the end of the drive shaft is not entering the flywheel splines? The U/J moves if I turn the prop shaft.

I have installed many Volvo Penta sterndrives over the years, but they were easier to manage weight-wise and you can manoeuvre the U/J reasonably easy, so what am I missing??

Any tips greatly appreciated.
sterndrive.jpeg
Thank you
 
alldodge

alldodge

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The drive shaft isn't making it into the coupler

Does the alignment bar go in and out with 2 fingers, and does it go all the way in?
 
J

Jesse Walter

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Jul 11, 2011
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Kinda had the same issue last week. I used almost the same set up. I was able to hook the drive very close to the engine hoist. I extended the boom so it was able to fit under the swim platform. This made the drive slide in very easy. Try lowering the front of your boat to raise the rear to make it more accessible with the hoist if that is possible.
 
S

Steve51

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alldodge said:
The drive shaft isn't making it into the coupler

Does the alignment bar go in and out with 2 fingers, and does it go all the way in?
Click to expand...
“The drive shaft isn't making it into the coupler” .. This was my initial thought. Forgive me as this is all new to me. The alignment goes in and out easily and I have the tell-tale spine marks all the way around. But.. I will need to recheck again as I am not sure now if the spline marks go all the way to the first shoulder. I certainly have about an 1 inch of marks maybe more along the tool and I wasn’t sure if that was what I should expect on the Bravo 3.

Thank you for your response.
 
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Steve51

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Jesse Walter said:
Kinda had the same issue last week. I used almost the same set up. I was able to hook the drive very close to the engine hoist. I extended the boom so it was able to fit under the swim platform. This made the drive slide in very easy. Try lowering the front of your boat to raise the rear to make it more accessible with the hoist if that is possible.
Click to expand...
 
C

CayugaCobalt

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I was recently in your shoes, in the coupler but couldnt get the last inch. There is good alignment and there is great alignment. You need great alignment. I put alignment tool into coupler and then gave tool a hit with a rubber mallet N,S,E and West. This improved alignment. As mentioned above achieving a horizontal coupler angle helps tremendously. I used 3 come along straps. One each on the trim cylinder bars and one up top going to gimble ring. This provides linear pull into coupler.
 
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Steve51

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CayugaCobalt said:
I was recently in your shoes, in the coupler but couldnt get the last inch. There is good alignment and there is great alignment. You need great alignment. I put alignment tool into coupler and then gave tool a hit with a rubber mallet N,S,E and West. This improved alignment. As mentioned above achieving a horizontal coupler angle helps tremendously. I used 3 come along straps. One each on the trim cylinder bars and one up top going to gimble ring. This provides linear pull into coupler.
Click to expand...
The straps on the trim cylinder bars is a good idea, I will try that.

I have re-checked and the alignment is slightly off (engine too high) as the alignment tool is not going fully home. It looked o/k at the time but that was before I knew that it had to go to the first shoulder. So, with a little bit of adjustment I should be good.

Thank you for the responses.
 
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Steve51

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Hi, Apologies next question…

I have managed to install the Sterndrive up to the point where I have about a 1 inch gap but it doesn’t seem to want to go further. I have tried to raise or lower and different manoeuvres to push it further but it appears to stop at this point, my guess it’s at the point of the O ring. I have heard mention of the “Mercruiser Kick” but not sure if this is a good idea or a ratchet strap to ease the drive in … but …?

To re-cap I have triple checked with the alignment bar and it installs easily all the way in with even spline marks all around on the grease. The drive shaft is in the coupler and I have tried turning the prop shaft, but something appears to prevent it going further.

At this point I have stopped, as I understand Bravo 3’s should slide in easy at this point and I really didn’t want to use force.

Any suggestions?

I could withdraw the sterndrive again, regrease the O rings, re-check the alignment, check the gimball bearing is centered AGAIN, unless there is an easy answer.

Thank you
 
Grub54891

Grub54891

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Yo much grease on the o-rings can do that. It basically causes a hydro lock situation.all you need is a light coating just enough to lube the ring and not get it into the groove. It’s not going to hurt anything to try a mercruiser kick at this point. If you already have the drive back off, clean up the rings and see how it goes I’ve had to do the kick a few times before I knew about the grease issue.
 
Lou C

Lou C

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1) I for sure would be using an outdrive jack to install this heavy drive, and start with the bell housing and the drive at the same exact height, try to get the face of the bellhousing straight up and down
2) do not use grease at all on those driveshaft o rings, only use motor oil, if there is grease in the grooves in the driveshaft clean it out
3) the challenge with installing any outdrive is to keep the driveshaft as straight as possible while guiding it into the coupler. This is where the outdrive jack really helps. You can break your back or do it the easier way, it's only money lol. I bought one back in 2012 or so and it has saved me money, time and back pain.
4) this may not work on all drives but it works on mine (Cobra) these are R&R'd in neutral, I use a thin screwdriver in the ujoint cross to just slightly turn the driveshaft to get the splines to align, like 1/8th" movement is all it takes. Makes the difference between fighting it for an hr or just sliding on.
The fact that the outdrive jack is on casters makes it easy to make multiple attempts to get it to line up.
 
S

Steve51

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Sep 26, 2009
Messages
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Lou C said:
1) I for sure would be using an outdrive jack to install this heavy drive, and start with the bell housing and the drive at the same exact height, try to get the face of the bellhousing straight up and down
2) do not use grease at all on those driveshaft o rings, only use motor oil, if there is grease in the grooves in the driveshaft clean it out
3) the challenge with installing any outdrive is to keep the driveshaft as straight as possible while guiding it into the coupler. This is where the outdrive jack really helps. You can break your back or do it the easier way, it's only money lol. I bought one back in 2012 or so and it has saved me money, time and back pain.
4) this may not work on all drives but it works on mine (Cobra) these are R&R'd in neutral, I use a thin screwdriver in the ujoint cross to just slightly turn the driveshaft to get the splines to align, like 1/8th" movement is all it takes. Makes the difference between fighting it for an hr or just sliding on.
The fact that the outdrive jack is on casters makes it easy to make multiple attempts to get it to line up.
Click to expand...
Hi, thank you for your responses.

I am using an engine hoist on wide plywood sheeting on the ground, as the casters do not run well in the boatyard to position the drive in place and I have a pry bar to level the bell housing.

I will probably withdraw the sterndrive and re-check, clean the shaft but the installation handbook recommends Quicksilver Extreme Grease on the O rings!!

The 6 mounting studs are all through the gimball housing and just about level at the ends i.e. no room to put the nuts on.

The shift cable is mounted into the shift linkage.

I am only an aged 10 stone weakling (ha ha) so no real heavy push strength so may need to get some muscle to help.

I will try to update with a photo to show position.
 
alldodge

alldodge

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So long ass alignment checks out, grease it as you have been and give it the Merc kick
 
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