I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tpenfield

tpenfield

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redneck joe said:
But if you buy outboards we won't have the continuation of this thread. I can see it easily reaching 100 pages on a refit....
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This thread is appropriately titled as such . . . so it could certainly be continued šŸ˜†

Here is my quick cost estimate on a sell (338 I/O) then buy (338 OB) option . . .
Sell 338 I/O - $110,000
Buy 338 OB $249,000
Sales Tax $15,500
Travel/Transport $10,000
(as needed)
Fix-its/Upgrades $5,000
_______________________________
Net cost $169,500 :unsure:

The outboard conversion would be around 1/2 that cost.
 
tpenfield

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Once I hit a 'commit-point' on the conversion, I may start a new thread for clarity. :)
 
Scott Danforth

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Ted, the 338 I/O's selling down here are a bit higher than $110K. closer to $170K. However if you still go thru the conversion, Im still going to read the threads..... LOL
 
Lou C

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I would sell and buy what you wantā€¦.i just think there are too many unknowns that will take too long to resolveā€¦Iā€™d choose the biggest boat I could get with a 300 hp outboard & go with thatā€¦.
 
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Scott06

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tpenfield said:
This thread is appropriately titled as such . . . so it could certainly be continued šŸ˜†

Here is my quick cost estimate on a sell (338 I/O) then buy (338 OB) option . . .
Sell 338 I/O - $110,000
Buy 338 OB $249,000
Sales Tax $15,500
Travel/Transport $10,000
(as needed)
Fix-its/Upgrades $5,000
_______________________________
Net cost $169,500 :unsure:

The outboard conversion would be around 1/2 that cost.
Click to expand...
What's the break down on the conversion? I would have expected more $$
 
tpenfield

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Scott06 said:
What's the break down on the conversion? I would have expected more $$
Click to expand...
I don't have pricing on OB's yet (working on that), but my estimates are in the $85K range after fire-saleing the I/O's and doing the hull extension myself.
Scott Danforth said:
Ted, the 338 I/O's selling down here are a bit higher than $110K. closer to $170K. However if you still go thru the conversion, Im still going to read the threads..... LOL
Click to expand...
You are one of my dedicated followers. (y)

I am thinking that difference between asking price and selling price is going to be an issue. I have seen the 328/338's sit on the market when priced in the $170K range. In order to make the boat move, it would probably need to be at a low-end price. On the other hand, the OB's are more desirable and probably would command the prices that are showing.
 
Scott Danforth

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tpenfield said:
On the other hand, the OB's are more desirable and probably would command the prices that are showing.
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I know the engineers that developed the Merc OB's (some used to work for me at one time) I will stick with I/O's
 
alldodge

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Merc
Easier to find someone that does work on them
Verado has good track record
Tariff cost should be less
 
redneck joe

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I would guess most current inventory of all motors will be tarrif free. Outboards are notoriously slow velocity product so besides current inventory i would imagine they were part of the the Q1 and most of Q2 push to import before the tarrifs kicked in. If they did tell you they needed to add a tarrif fee I would be highly suspect.

Just my .05 cents worth of opinion from being put out to pasture early from a fortune 5 company in global supply chain. They didn't like people telling them the king had no clothes.
 
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tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .
The Admiral and I discussed the $$,$$$ for the outboard conversion. She is OK with it, given the alternative cost of a sell/buy approach.

I am doing a little bit of materials research. . . If I build a hull extension/bracket out of fiberglass, I'd use fiberglass over foam core construction. Thoughts on core material?

  • Coosa Board?
  • Divinycell?
  • Maybe a combination of the 2?

There is a Coosa board supplier on Cape Cod, I may have to go a bit further for Divinycell.
 
P

Pmt133

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Higher density coosa. The divinycell is nice but not nearly as strong for that application imo.
 
Scott Danforth

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Nida core? not sure you need the higher density if you have a thick enough core. in bending, its the outer fibers doing the load.

could go carbon / fiberglass mix as well.

remember, your current boat has at least 3/8" (closer to 1/2") of fiberglass for the hull. fiberglass may be heavier than you want.
 
tpenfield

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redneck joe said:
Why not aluminum?
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Because . . . :ROFLMAO:

Actually, I have a plan in mind to make an exacting fit to the odd-shaped transom area. IMO, it would be much easier done in fiberglass than aluminum.

I tend to agree that the Coosa would probably be better because of the fiber content . . . and I can get it locally. (y)
 
Scott Danforth

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Ted, since you would be having the fab work done externally if aluminum and you would have to build plugs/mold/parts if fiberglass, how is that easier?
 
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