1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

MikeSchinlaub said:

I recently did a transom job with a clearence issue like that. My supervisor has an extended shaft straight die grinder that helped a lot, along with a few carbide bits and a stone ball. Later, I had closed the gap even more with glass, and had to come up with something else. I taped a stir stick to a sawzall blade, and cut a piece of psa 36 grit sand paper to fit it. It was a bit slow, but worked well. Longer blades will let you put some pressure on and flex them.

As for the sidewalls, just gel would probably be best. If you use the foam, could you set up a blower on a timer somehow to dry it out? Even just a tiny box fan left in overnight would work.

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The die grinder worked pretty well. Thanks for the tip.

After some summer getaway time, I'm back at it. Made my fiberglass order from US Composite and found a local source with marine plywood. It's nice to be able to by it in by the sheet as I need it and not have to store extra as I really don't have room. Others have mentioned it before but USC can ship to a transit terminal and you don't have to pay the hazmat charge on the resin. Shipping was half of what it would be if I had it delivered to my house. Well worth the 15min drive to pick it up.

Going to get to work on the transom today. Hopefully get it cut out and the glue up started.

Got the transom cut out and glued using Titebond III. Based on the keyhole cutout, everything looks good. Did a dry fit and all looks good. Going to route out the extra space for the steering linkage at the top of the keyhole next. Hoping my USC order arrives by Friday so I can start the glassing this weekend.

Question about mixing resin... I understand the glassing process to be

1. soak the wood surface with resin until it stops absorbing it
2. let the resin on the wood surface get tacky
3. apply the CSM or 1708 to the wood
4. wet out the CSM or 1708
5. repeat steps 3 & 4 as necessary to build layers

Can I do all of this in one batch of resin, or will it take long enough such the resin in the container will begin to harden and not be usable? In other words, do I need to make multiple, small batches of resin or can I mix enough for this whole process at once? At first, I'm going to be doing some small pieces (12" x 18") with only 1 layer of CSM but then will come the transom. I'm guessing the answer is different depending on the size of the area being covered and the number of layers needed.

I assume this is all about getting the transom in, so here is what I recommend.

1. Attach transom to hull with thickened resin.
1a. Spread thickened resin across the back of the transom at least 1/2 inch thick, you can avoid the I/O cutout.
1b. Lag or clamp transom in place and leave overnight. You want resin to ooze out all around the edge of the transom. Use a bondo spreader to smooth it all out, and fill any gaps. You want to have a smooth transition from wood edge to hull glass.

2. Next day, use a grinder to scuff up all of that resin. Leave as smooth of a surface as you can.

3. Gather all of your glassing materials. You want two layers of csm and one 1708 across the whole transom, and at least six inches past all the way around. Cut the 1708 just a bit shorter, so it doesn't hang past the cam. Fill any low spots with more csm.

4. Start glassing. I can do a quart cup of resin at a time, but depending on your speed and temp, you might start with half. Do the 2 mat, roll out all of the air bubbles, 1708, roll it.

There's no down time once you start, you're racing the clock trying to get done before the resin sets up.

This might help.