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  1. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    yup. don't use the cheapest. they get hot. 6-8amp. Bauer brand
  2. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    Like scott danforth said earlier. here are some links for light reading. start with 14, 15, 18, 19, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b Found here https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/ 4.5" angle grinder with 40grit sanding discs. I think I went through 50 or so. You will...
  3. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    many tried to do a partial fix. at the end, it is a total rebuild. have you looked at the stickies on rebuilds? take pictures and measurements. leave the outer lip for deck height reference so you know how high you need to build the stringers. careful with the saw to not cut through the hull.
  4. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    ACX ply is plenty good. most boat builders do not use marine ply either.
  5. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    Your bulkheads look to be wrong. wrong wood, wrong location. It looks like there are just 2x10 boards going across to support the opening because the structure is compromised. Can you show the plastic you broke? Once you start grinding, use a tyvek suit gloves, googles and a P100 mask.
  6. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    bulkheads go from left to right and stringers front to rear. Bare wood installed about a year ago and the way the boat looks like left in the open, most likely trashed it. That's like saying I repaired the rusted out fenders on the car but haven't painted it. Linoleum doesnt help but only trap...
  7. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    oops. oh well. good luck with the project. you may be able to put a 4.3 in it.
  8. Chris51280

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    It's a17ft boat with most likely a 3l 4cyl motor in it. for the same money you could get a little bit bigger boat with a 4.3 or 5.7l motor which will be more value to you. Since this boat already requires an engine rebuild and most likely a deck and stringer replacement, not ideal for a return...
  9. Chris51280

    Replacement Prop Selection

    you need to start your own thread.
  10. Chris51280

    Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

    https://goodcalculators.com/boat-prop-calculator/
  11. Chris51280

    Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

    with the 15p prop at 3500 you should have only made 27mph with the 1.84 ratio. So thats physically impossible to be at 35mph Something is off. Your tach or speedo. If it is GPS measured I would say the tach is off. At 4400 you should be able to get 33mph with the 15p prop. Pending all is healthy
  12. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    yes, small bubbles but it is still intact. rubber seals are good. I will be installing water temp switch and oil pressure switch from now on with a buzzer. I didn't catch the overheat fast enough and my boat was not equipped with this before. Will look into the other style muffs
  13. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    Turns out my flappers are pretty cooked too. they water housing on top looks still ok. I think I have to make sure my muffs are good seated next time. Never happened before.
  14. Chris51280

    Belts for 4.3 V6

    The ones I found were metric and are 10mm wide. they make them in 10mm increments which is great. If they don't fit, just go one size up or down.
  15. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    thanks scott
  16. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    sierra. Thats what I think. they may have leaked too much the day before when i tested it before taking the boat out on the water. Now I also have to check my flappers and the upper receiver housing. The Gen 1 impeller just sucks.
  17. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    Turns out my impeller was fried. not sure how that happened since I always put the muffs on. The plastic tube melted too and I had a heck of a time to get the impeller off the shaft since the housing had scratched the shaft. Oh well, another impeller this year. The second now
  18. Chris51280

    1990 vs 1992 4.3 block swap

    Took the boat out today and the Temps reached over 200 really quick. Was running fine 3 weeks ago at 160F. Replaced the intellectual in July because it was 3 years old and had overheating issues then. After the change I went to the lake for a week and it was running fine. Now, overheating right...
  19. Chris51280

    Mercury Flo-Torq II Locking Tab

    I never bend them. In 4 years, I haven't lost one yet. Not rely on a little sheet metal tab to hold the nut on. It is extra security, no doubt.
  20. Chris51280

    What rack and pinion replacement?

    Went ahead and got the seastar 141 kit. I picked a 15 ft length. I hope it's the right one
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