GOOD NEWS. . . . The PICTURE UPLOAD FUNCTION IS WORKING !!! The tech folks at the parent company have been able to remedy the issue. You can upload pictures once again. Thank you for your patience.
You using the cables that came on the boat?
If so: and it still won't turn?? then the boat equipment is faulty.
Get new cables or maybe the solenoid is bad? or wired wrong?
1994 115 P115TLRS 060713
Steering is VERRRRY tight, tried to use heat and add grease and it still is very tight.
I don't have a service manual.
I know it's a big job, any tips or procedures to fix the kingpin and bushings??
Thanks
Jumper cables won't provide enough power to turn the starter while on the motor, unless you have #4/2/00 size wire for jumper cables.
Then the clamps need to be HEAVY DUTY too.
The battery? load test it?? Battery testers about 25$ at Harbor Freight.
That's one of the tools they sell that...
What's the years on the motors??
Looks like they are both close as both use mainly Mercury equipment(pack/coils etc.)
The lower units are different in the shaft they use. 5" difference.
If you post the year of the 2nd motor I can compare the parts and see if the shafts can interchange.
Does it shift when the linkage is unhooked??
Motor running? needs to run to allow shifting.
Unhook it and shift by hand, as you shift turn the prop as it needs to move to allow the gear/dog to mesh.
That's why Mercury was more expensive, less bells and whistles on the Force.
Yet the Force had one of the best lower units made.
If you kept the oil changed and made sure no water got in the lower lasted and lasted.
Had a pair of 88/85 30 years and never needed any work other than fresh oil.
Chris1956 his pump doesn't have either one of the things you describe.
His manual release is undoing the front hydraulic line where it goes into the front of the pump.
The Nyloc nut: if it comes loose too easy??? It can turn itself and fall off along with the prop and hardware.
Had one come loose, luckily it was still on the ramp and could be seen when the water calmed down.
The owner had just bought a new stainless prop. $450
ONE IMPORTANT THING!!!! There is NOTHING in the actual pump that you can fix, NOTHING!!!
The seals that usually leak aren't part of the pump.
It's real easy to screw up the T@T be extra careful when taking it apart.
IF??? it's ever been in salt water?? That can make the job extra hard or...
Yes
I used the Racor for over 30 years and never had a problem.
The metal canisters are subject to rust and corrosion and they can collapse when trying to remove them. Salt water destroys them and the mount for the filter. The Racor is more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Just change the fittings to what ever size the hose is.
The better or more expensive the filter the better the results.
I ran a Racor with the clear bowl and water drain on the bottom.
That way you can see any water build up.
People made the assumption that a 4 blade will be an upgrade and get better performance.
They get better performance if your pulling 3-4 skiers and don't plan on ever going fast again.
Great holeshot.
Had a 21 with twin 85's and 17p props.
It would get it up on plane (1 motor) if it wasn't too loaded.
Your boat actually came standard with a single 125.
The twins was a more expensive model.
Those muffs need to be taped in place.
Duct tape won't stick to a wet drive, put it on when the lower is dry.
Was at work and running a new motor test.
Things going good then I notice no water in the exhaust.
The yard guy unhooked the first part of my hose and hooked another so he could wash a...
The 4 blade is it stainless? The weight difference between stainless and aluminum can be 15# That make the motor turn slower.
Yes add a 4th blade it increases the weight and drops the rpm's.
All 125 hp should run about 52-5400 rpm's.
The boat weight and load and how you run the boat will make a...
