GOOD NEWS. . . . The PICTURE UPLOAD FUNCTION IS WORKING !!! The tech folks at the parent company have been able to remedy the issue. You can upload pictures once again. Thank you for your patience.
With a test light you clip the alligator clip to ground and pierce the positive wire near the pump connector with the sharp point of the light. 12V will light the light.
Use Volvo Synthetic 75W-90.
I adjust my shift cable by putting it in neutral and adjusting the brass block so it drops into the mechanism easily. I've added small metal washers to the joints of the mechanism to take out the linkage slop.
Nice boat! :) I'm curious on this as well. I suspect you may need the ECM for the 5.8 to provide the correct fuel ratio, but am interested in what the experts here will say.
Or eBay. I found an entire set for that motor/drive on eBay. Right now I'm just seeing the individual manuals; Fuel Systems, Ford EFI, GM EFI, Electrical/Ignition, Engine, Vertical Drive, etc.
I would connect the sender to your ship's wiring and see how the gauge responds as you rotate the sender. If the gauge responds normally, then with the drive down, install the sender in the position that shows drive down on the gauge.
It's reasonable to re-use a six month old bellows. The true answer will be how it looks once removed and cleaned up. There may not be a sealant. If there is it's likely a soft Permatex sealant.
How are you providing water to the raw water pump? Via muffs or drive in a large bucket. If it's a bucket then it's not able to prime since the water level is below the raw water pump.
@cyauch, Have you done a complete backflush of the raw water cooling system? It seems like you have a flow restriction that prevents sufficient flow at high power. Seems to be a common theme with all three overheat at idle threads.
