1000 rpms is idle speed through no wakes on my boat, maybe even 1200 if no one yells at me. If you say it's ok at 1000 maybe you can nurse it through. How much can you get by with at 1000 in your situation? How long do you have to idle at 800 to get to your slip? If you can get to the slip...
Yes. Arnel Pineda has been the lead singer since 2007 and he is fantastic. Sounds exactly like Perry. Just saw them in concert with Toto a couple of months ago. Check out the album. I am very impressed how good it is.
Common failure point is the wires as they leave the sender. Turn your wheel hard over as in making a left hand turn to inspect the wires. I've been buying time with mine using liquid electrical tape.
Definitely the 2011. It's not a powerhouse, however, so be prepared to swop props for different loads. The extra hp of the 2000 is not worth the age of the boat. Unless you're absolutely sure the 2000 was stored indoors and the structure is not rotten stay away.
Raising the motor can give more speed as long as it's not raised too far. Others are wondering if yours is raised too far and loosing bite as it nears the top end.
I have the 2002 version of your engine. The cap/rotor swap out is easy. I buy NAPA ECH RR207 cap and ECH RR256 rotor. Magnetic screwdriver with Torx bits T15 and T20. Take a Qtip with some grease on the end and extract any pieces of crud that may be blocking the screens while in there.
For starters grease your hinge pins on each side. From the vid I can see yours is old enough to still have the zerks. That may help the trim creak but wouldn't help the steering creak however.
I use a homemade cart not wide enough to accommodate the prop so the prop has to come off for removal and stay off for re-installing. I hand turn the shaft so that the shifter stays in forward. Go slow and make sure it stays that way and lines up properly. Always in forward gear at the helm...
Nauticus Smart Tabs will eliminate a good bit of it for not much money and have other benefits also. There are tons of threads on this site addressing smart tabs. Generally very positive results for inland boaters.
Yes I've wondered about this also. I tighten the hose clamp well and check for leaks frequently. I have enough slack to be able to cut off some hose if needed. But I admit your (and QBhoy's) method sounds appealing.
This is similar to what I do. I use two OMC quick disconnects. One stays on the fogging tank line, just to close it off. Another I carry loose to plug the boats fuel line once removed. I have to remove the panel beside the starboard side of the engine for access. Is it a PITA? Yes, such is...
What's exactly wrong with it? There is a manual for it. Search for Quicksilver Commander 3000 Classic Throttle Control manual. I downloaded one from somewhere, can't remember at present. Used it to replace my thumb switch. Parts seem to be readily available.
If that's a steel frame trailer and the carpet is against the supports consider cutting the new carpet so wet carpet isn't laying against the steel. As you can see mine were getting a good amount of rust/rot. I painted Chassis Saver on them.
