Good news. yes I agree with jerryjerry.
It is almost the best way to go with starters to restore them.
They with last forever with good maintenance.
Cleaning, change springs and brushes and sometimes change the bushings/bearings and they last forever.
That is the culprit or one of it.
Regarding the prop what size do you have right now?
4000 RPM at WOT is about 800-1200 RPM low
Going down 1 in in pitch would rise the RPM about 200.
You test them separate and do it with them disconnected and connected to the terminal block or connector plugs.
Checking with them connected give you answer if they put out right voltage when under load (CDI box).
Do as Flyingscott suggest, pull the LU and check water tube and impeller housing.
I am not really familier with the 70Hp, but there must be a pee hole or a idle relief hole at the back of the leg.
Does water exit from one of those?
There might be couple of brands out there but they are simply the same.
A DVA adapter contains as I said before a capacitor a diod and a resistor.
The purpose of it is to rectifie the AC voltage to DC voltage and store it in a capacitor.
Then you are able to read the peak voltage from the stator...
Just check the resistance (Ohm) for the trigger and stator are not 100% they are good.
The DVA voltage output from the stator and the trigger give you the answer if they are good or bad.
If you have two of those spark tester then it is okey (BTW there are multipel cylinder spark tester in the market), BUT if you have only one you have to ground the other cylinder (two cylinder engine).
There are two alternative, have the spark plug connected to the HT wire boot and ground out...
When checking spark on a CDI ignition system with that kind of tester you have to ground out the cylinders that you do not test at the moment.
If not, you can damage the CDI box as it have no way to dump the voltage in the capacitors when it have to.
I think Franz Marine will ship to Canada, I live in Sweden Europe and he ship to me.
Looking at your prop gap to gear case and it looks like it is not quite right BUT it do not have any effect at the OB performance as these Chryslers do not have any exhaust through the prop.
It is just cosmetic.
Yes, ground the wire connected to the thermo switch and the buzzer should go off.
If not check the wiring and buzzer are okey.
To check the switch you have to heat it up.
The regular thermo switch on/off I put it in a can with water and put on a stove and a thermometer.
With a VOM connected to it and check resistance you can see when it closes.
It is not an easy check but it will work, at least for me.
I prefer a horn or light and I always check the water flow when starting and when I cruising.
Always check when cruising is a bit troublesome but it is worth it!!!
Franz Marine will have seals for the LU.
All seals and o-ring are available except the seal for the shift shaft at companies that sells bearings, seals, power train stuff and other machine related details here in Sweden.
I suppose they are in the US too.
Yes that bellow act as a seal for the gear case.
This was a bad design from the Force engineers and they changed it to a regular seal later.
They are N/A as you state, maybe Franz Marine still provide a replacement as he did in the past.
The replacement is expensive and a R/R stuff.
You can try...
You can troubleshoot these ignition system with a VOM and a DVA adapter.
If you are handy you can build your own DVA adapter it is very easy.
It contains a resistor, a electrolytic capacitor and a diod.
Google DVA adapter and you get the schematic for it.
Go to Outboardignitiondotcom and you...
