The flat copper cables have a very large cross section with very fine wires to keep resistance to a minimum.
Will need a 2-4 ga copper wire to be comparable
Measure the root diameter (bottom of threads) to determine "size"
1.5" and 2" are standard
https://www.perko.com/catalog/spare_parts/fuel_system_components/
My hull design is such that between 4 kts and 20 kts. it's pushing a huge wake, burning a ton of fuel in the process.
Much easier on both motor and fuel to drop the tabs and firewall the throttle to get the boat up on plane in the least amount of time. Doesn't take but a couple of seconds to...
Our horse trailer uses grommet mounts.
Does he replace grommet and all or just the light?
Had some similar issues until I started replacing both the grommets and lamps. Never had a problem since.
Guessing it’s a combination of hull design (old school deep V) and the duoprop since your leaning left. Normal props tend to push you starboard.
I’m running a 22’ W/A with an outboard, hardtop and 12x12 tabs with a continuous variable deadrise hull design. Very stable
Cruise at 27 kts. Keep...
What connections?
Obviously the problem is in the “connections”
You realize that voltage is only half the equation…you need current as well.
Guessing you have a bad or corroded connector
The alarm is a simple open /close circuit.
Power (12v) is applied (constant) to the horn. The offending sensor simply provides the ground path.
As such, any shorts to ground in the circuit will set off the alarm
The constant speeds pumps I’m familiar with (industrial automation) all vent back into the pump circuit. If that is the case, the usual in-line rotary vane sensor will work.
If you have a dedicated return line as with a diesel, a number of manufacturer make NMEA 2000 totalizers. One sensor in...
What are your trying to do?
A battery switch and an ACR have to completely different functionalities
The battery switch is used to disconnect the battery to prevent discharge and to select which battery to use when running dual battery setups
The ACR connects between two batteries to allow a...
According to the documentation "NMEA 2000/Easy Connect" does not support fuel flow functionality.
Had to install seperate fuel level and flow sensors to support that functionality on my Garmin
Something to think about.......
A #3,500 boat traveling at 60 MPH has the momentum of 1,139,884.5 lb·ft/s.
Ignoring the deceleration time of the accident, your looking at a potential load of #35,433
Two.....#2,000 straps going to cut it?
Heads up.....that particular pump requires a flooded intake to prime.
The pump does not "suck" per say. It will not prime sticking the end in the bucket. The pump has to be mounted below the water line or behind a scoop type intake to force water into the pump chamber for it to prime
#5K+ boat....tired that once. Motor off, trimmed up and secured before loading since.
I back trailer (tandem axle, 32 rollers) in until the just the top of the fenders is above water. At that point, only the front rollers are above the water.
Walk out the tongue/rail of the trailer and grab...
The male threads on the bottom is the inlet that screws into the seacock.
The molded hose barb at the top of the pump goes to the live well.
The nylon hose fitting on the bottom (side) is the washdown supply.
My boat has a “Carolina Flair”. Can’t reach the hook from the bow. Have to walk the rail of the trailer to connect. Have an electric winch so easy from that point on
What live well pump do you have?
My live well pump is shown below. The bottom (intake) screws into the seacock. The output (top) is plumbed to the live well. The feed to the second pump (lower port with pipe plug) is plugged off since I have a separate intake for the washdown pump
