If you have a engine driven raw water pump you should only use the muffs with a pressurized water source like a garden hose. Not a bucket on the swim platform.
How will it do with salt water running through it? Same issues as cast iron? Still have to replace every few years in salt water. Each exhaust elbow is $1250.
The whole exhaust is cast aluminum. Looks like cast iron but is cast aluminum as proved by a magnet. Would they last longer than cast iron? How about in salt water?
Why go to aluminum?
When you say not allowing the engine to start or run what do you mean? The alarm sounds for issues that happen when the engine is running. Clearly sensors can go bad. So can relays.
Talk to the people at All American Drivers in IL or Michigan. Around there.
They can rebuild what you have. You will like a like new drive with a 2 year warranty.
I had mine put on a pallet, sent to them, they rebuilt it and returned it on a pallet.
I would still go through the bonding in the boat with a fine tooth comb.
I have a block in the back of the engine bay where everything comes together.
OP - is your boat on a trailer, rack, slip?
If you think about it the drain plugs for any engine will be just above the oil pan. Basically they have to be there.
For manifolds sometimes pulling a bottom hose is easier than undoing a drain plug if it's corroded.
Yes. It will be on my spring list to do. But given the boat is stored on a rack I am not sure how much I need anodes at all. But I will certainly have all of them and in proper condition.
The hoses came off with much issue. Everything is now drained in the raw water side.
The anode screwed into the heat exchanger looked more like a drain plug than a sacrificial anode.
What about pulling off the raw water pump that should be the same as pulling off the hoses? And or could put the raw water pump with hoses attached in a bucket of hot water for a few minutes.
