Unless you ran out of toilet paper, get a factory manual. Or go to old mercs. I think they have old manuals
Swap the cable to the other side of the bracket at the control
kenda has wheel/hub combos
martin wheel has them
marathon tires has them.
tractor supply, Mills Fleet farm, Blains Farm and Fleet, northern tool, your local farm co-op. all will carry them
just google trailer wheel with integral hub.
the relay is just a switch. so yes, removing the relay removes the load prior to the relay. that didnt tell you anything as there is no load
what is the current you are getting with each load? have you looked at the chinesium coil?
have you did a resistance measurement to determine which...
Drill two small holes next to each other in the plastic plug, drive a screwdriver into it and turn it out
Those plastic plugs need to be replaced every few years
Follow the electrical schematic for your specific motor that you did not list. Start testing from the battery and work your way to the helm.
Could be the big circuit breaker, could be dead relays, could be a blown diode, could be a fried wire.
However since there are about 15 different 2002...
It's not worth $8k CDN.
Considering what you are looking at doing, the hull would be an OK starting point.
Here it would be listed as $500 trailer must take "free boat"
The POs guestimate at HP rating just screams run
That is a common low cost trailer for a light boat used only in fresh water from the 70s and 80s.
Common around the Midwest where George Herter set up shop (MN)
Bearings are available. Wheels and tires are available
You can get new rubber inserts for the torsion axles
Think of it this way...
Did you pull the drive and inspect the bellows, u-joints and alignment? A leaking bellows will also leak water into the boat. And rust up your u-joints
