if you continue to buy I/O boats you will use it alot. Now for me, I am having only outboards in the future, but my brother just bought a 2020 Chapparal with a Merc Alpha and we can service that one ourselves the same way and save a lot of $$$. Been doing my own outdrive work for approx 15 years...
I must have gotten lucky with this one because once it was set up right, it has worked fine for 15+ years and I have not even had to replace the shift cable that was on it when I bought it 19 years ago. Shifts with 2 fingers still.
PS what do you think of the Pertonix vs points? I have no...
well the hose is just to route the water flow down the exhaust so it doesn't look like water is leaking out of the upper gear housing. When replacing these I like to use some thick marine grease to hold the o ring gasket in place in the housing, so it doesn't shift out of place. Lube the...
However I replaced my original ESA with one from CDI electronics when the original failed about 7 years ago. These according to CDI can be used with points or an aftermarket electronic conversion like the Pertonix. So I could use that instead but heard mixed things about them too!
You need an advance timing light to check total timing advance. The specs for the OMC Cobra 4.3 were base timing 6* BTDC+12* advance at 3200 rpm for a total of 18*.
Do you have a points distributor?
Last time points were done? Dwell checked? Total timing advance checked? Could the centrifugal advance be sticking? If you have the OE Prestolite all of these points should be checked. Always verify basics before looking for ghosts
Dump the one with the rock in the hole lol. You can use the other one which judging by the box is a Sierra. Better yet get a whole OEM OMC housing and impeller kit I’ve installed a number of these over the years and never had a bad one…
For OE:
marine engine dot com
Crowley marine dot com
I think I explained how to check for blockage in the lower unit water passages & the water tube gaskets but if not:
1) remove impeller housing
2) hook up muffs and turn on water
Water should spurt out of one of the openings in the impeller housing. If not, hold the muffs tight to the lower unit...
Also try taking a reading with the IR temp gun of the intake manifold right underneath where the thermostat housing bolts on to it. I have found that with the OMC/Volvo stat housing design this area seems to test closest to the gauge reading, about 10-15* lower than the gauge. The stat housing...
If it dribbles like that with the engine OFF I doubt it’s too much fuel pump pressure. I’d remove the carb dump out the gas turn it upside down and rig up a hose so you can blow thru the inlet. With the carb upside down you should not be able to blow air into it. If you can the needle & seat are...
Normal compression is 150-160 on these engines so your # 6 is low at 120 and the cyl head gasket looks blown to me…dark around the left side of the cylinder.
Yes the 2 piece system can corrode and leak but if in salt water you have to replace them on a regular basis like every 5-7 years. I had...
Agreed while its big number price wise it is the best plan long term, both from the point of view of repairing ALL the damage and fixing other things that cause trouble on older boats (oil pans, starters, steering arms, hinge pins etc).
Try posting up at the hull truth there are a lot of outboard pros there.
I would:
Check for water in cyls and do a compression test. Usually with OBs it’s eroded sealing surfaces between the block & cyl head, or a small hole rotted in the head or block. Might just be a head gasket though.
I’d go back and check the compression again. Do these newer 4.3s have adjustable valve train or is it like the newer style net lash? I’m wondering if any valves are sticking due to the water ingestion. I had this when my head gaskets blew and leaked water into the cyl. I had one valve on each...
try Stumpy's Fab Works, I have one of his.
if you're going to own I/O boats and do your own work, this and an alignment tool are must have items. I have saved thousands over the years doing my own outdrive R+R every year and have avoided repairs and spending money unecessarily due to repairs...
