Search results

  1. M

    95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer stringer repair

    Are you talking about the motor mount brackets that bolt to the stringer? I've replaced had to replace several of those stringers.
  2. M

    1981 Springbok 18' Restoration/Renovation

    Dude, those look great. You want bad welds? Here's what I did to my rocker panel, one of my first times welding, and I forgot to turn on the gas for most of it.
  3. M

    Random

    Early episodes of Star Trek TNG were weird.
  4. M

    95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer stringer repair

    I definitely push myself too much sometimes. I'm stubborn.
  5. M

    95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer stringer repair

    I've gone all day all suited up with no break. Haven't passed out yet, and inly once during the whole kitchen rebuild! 👍 Gmach, honestly both sides are kind of right. It definitely should all be replaced, but it's amazing the structural rot I've seen at work and they still hold together.
  6. M

    95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer stringer repair

    Yeah, that's right about at the bottom edge of the transom. Since you'll have to cut the bottom half off anyway, just do the whole thing. By the time you cut the transom in half, it's not really any more work to just take the whole thing out.
  7. M

    95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer stringer repair

    Drill some test holes in easy access areas to look for more rot first.
  8. M

    Laminating 3/4" Coosa to make 1.5" transom

    My bad guys. I spaced on the epoxy resin.
  9. M

    Boats from work.

    I forgot to post this, but I painted the blue and automotive cleared the deck and hull.
  10. M

    1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

    64?! Was there any floor left?
  11. M

    Laminating 3/4" Coosa to make 1.5" transom

    If I was doing it, I would do a layer of csm on both halves and the side that will contact the hull. Let it cure, scuff it up, dry fit together with a couple screws, use resin putty to bond, and finally screw the two together working from one end out. This is what we did to a few of the floor...
  12. M

    Boats from work.

    Gauge, the new kid, did his second ever paint job yesterday. An all around red hull side, and it's beautiful. His only other one was a small gel spot in, no prior experience. He's 19. He'll be better than me in no time. :)
  13. M

    Boats from work.

    No, that's just tape holding the carpet on.
  14. M

    Boats from work.

    That's just some extra padding for my seat. Snap On might as well have just used bare plywood.
  15. M

    Boats from work.

    It was a Smurfin day today.
  16. M

    Repainting a 1989 Crestliner Sabre G/L outboard

    I don't have much knowledge on paint properties and comparisons, just work experience. I work in a repair shop in Indiana, so we get freezing temps too. If you need to primer, you can use a direct to metal primer. I don't know if that's a zinc cromate formula, but it works. Then you can sand...
  17. M

    Boats from work.

    Yeah, doesn't mean I want to screw up though.
  18. M

    Boats from work.

    Well this week kinda sucks. I sprayed the flake last night, but didn't cover the black very well and had to do a silver stripe again. I also had to smooth out a big uneven spot in that floor, but the heat lamp screwed up the cure and a big spot didn't set up right.
  19. M

    Repainting a 1989 Crestliner Sabre G/L outboard

    We use Nason Fulthane single stage on top and bottom. I don't know how well it would work as a roll on though. I think bottom paints are flat because it's more of an anti foul coating than actual paint. If you don't leave yours in the water though, it's not necessary.
  20. M

    Repainting a 1989 Crestliner Sabre G/L outboard

    Use a single stage paint for everything. It's more durable than a base/clear paint job. How much you sand off depends on the condition of the existing paint. Based on the age, I'd bet there are a lot of spots that are going to chip away. If they're like tiny rock chips, you can get away with...
Top