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  1. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    1984 Shoreland'r SS-R1612C
  2. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    Just a little update as I've slowly been grinding away at this trailer project. Currently have all the major frame pieces stripped as good as I could with an assortment of wire brushes, stripping pads, flapper discs, and sanding pads via angle grinder, drill, and orbital sander. Gave it all a...
  3. MNhunter1

    196X Starcraft Mariner 16

    No place for pressure treated wood an aluminum boat. Stick with marine ply or an exterior grade ply like ACX or BCX and seal with Epoxy or spar depending on the application. The chemicals in pressure treated wood results in corrosion of the aluminum. I'm doing my trailer work now. I recommend...
  4. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    I need to stick with the rollers for the rear(as far as I can tell) with the way the trailer/pivoting rear cross member is configured, but plan to replace the front rollers with some short 36"-42" bunks. All the bunk version I have seen have a fixed rear cross member. I suppose I could try to...
  5. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Thanks! So no issue/adhesion concerns hitting it with the clean metal primer after treating with the Correseal or phosphoric? Treat(all, not just rusty spots), prime, paint.
  6. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    Thanks Roscoe, Yeah, problem with the bolt on tongue is I'd need about a 10ft section of 3x3 and I'm not sure I can find it locally. I may just go with the swing away as it seems like the best option. Ordering all new hardware, so will be sure those pivot bolts are grade 8. assuming grade 8...
  7. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    Here's the same boat, same year, similar trailer (not mine) as another example:
  8. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    Its a good, robust trailer that seems to fit the hull just fine, just short in the tongue. I don't feel its necessarily undersized and has carried it just fine for 40 years.
  9. MNhunter1

    Shoreland'r Rebuild

    Greetings all! I usually hang out on the Starcraft forums, but ventured over here for some guidance on the rebuild of my early 80's Shoreland'r trailer. I just leapfrogged the boat off the trailer and onto a cradle I threw together. Got everything torn apart and currently ordering new...
  10. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    My dilemma... I've been working on the parts with a flapper disc/angle grinder, 80 grit on an orbital sander, and some wire wheels. I had planned to hit everything with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer before laying down some Rusto Pro as a topcoat, but I'm reading some conflicting information on...
  11. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    I remember as a kid, taking things apart out of curiosity, but often never got around to putting them back together. I hope things have changed...😁
  12. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Had a busy weekend so a little delayed in posting. Successfully made the leap from trailer to cradle...as a one man job! I had the neighbor lined up to give me a hand on Saturday morning, but got a little eager when I was getting everything all prepared and had it down before he made his way...
  13. MNhunter1

    Year and Model Guess?

    Did you check out the brochures sticky? https://forums.iboats.com/threads/starcraft-brochures.342601/
  14. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    After a little contemplation, and recognizing what little time there'd be to actually use the boat this season between all the kids sporting activities, I decided to move forward with the trailer rehab while the motor was still off the hull. I had originally planned to tackle it over the winter...
  15. MNhunter1

    New issue cropped up on my transom/bunk position!

    Are those pressure treated bunks? re: the picture in post #27 I'd replace the bunks with a wider, non-pressure treated 2x6 and adjust as needed. Damage is already done, but you'd likely weaken the material even more trying to straighten it out. Also not sure if that corrosion hole was from the...
  16. MNhunter1

    1984 starcraft islander

    Google "joggle stick method" if you need to template some of your deck boards. I used it to do a casting deck and the process came out pretty close to perfect. Might not need it for some of the more subtle curves, but it works well when you're dealing with the bow and such.
  17. MNhunter1

    I'm back with a 1994 Islander 221V!

    The on/off switch is all you need. Wire the float switch direct to the battery as indicated and spliced in with your on/off for manual operation. The float switch is your auto. Even with the toggle in the off position, the float switch will complete the circuit and activate the pump if needed.
  18. MNhunter1

    Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

    Thanks! I purchased the toggle switch labels. They didn't turn out as great as I had expected, but still look good and serve their purpose.
  19. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Well, I can't say it's been fast, but definitely moving forward. Spring here in MN has been a bit of a wet and windy mess scattered with a few nice days here and there. Spring turkey season was a bit unusual with the weather patterns, but managed to lay one down on day 3 when the sun finally...
  20. MNhunter1

    Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

    Here you go. The dash is 3/4" and I haven't ran my steering cable yet as I want to get all my wiring done without the interference, but you can see there is still a good allowance of space. With the switch panel, the bezel wouldn't have allowed me much more room to bring it in tighter, and with...
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