0X66 information pretty please?

[Jay Dog]

Hey there everybody, long time listner (viewer) first time caller. I have been working diligently on a 20' 2000 Century C.C. w/ 150h.p. OX66 for the past 7 months. This site has helped my quite a bit to date and would like to thank everybody involved with keeping it going. The boat described was purchased as a "Screaming Deal" because it had sat for the past 3 years with no cover and KINDA ran when it was parked. Short history- In 2005 the second owner had to replace power head as it had injested water through the fuel system and dropped a cylinder. New p.h. installed and 3 trips out the engine experienced what was described as symptoms which pointed to fuel/sensor problems. The boat was parked and sat...Enter me. A quick lookover the fuel system had me start with wondering why water entered the system in the first place. Turns out the fuel tank vent on the outer hull had spun, the jam nut backed off and it was working more of a funnel than a vent. I was amazed to find that this was overlooked / not corrected by the shop that installed the p.h. and asumed the worst from here on out. I sucked a full tank down the best I could from the pickup tube after treating with a water absorb and replaced everything logically in the system. This included all 3 pumps (the electrical pump was locked solid, I tried soaking and reversing polarity) all 3 filters (boat, engine, and electrical pump) and a cleaning of all six injector screens. All had heavy salt deposits. I have an 02 sensor on the way and should be installed soon. Compression is 118x4 112x2. I have a decent background in mechanics and the like but goose egg experience when it comes to boats / outboards. Here are a few questions I have for the powers that be, Thanks in advance:

1. Any other tips for the tank. Short of turning the boat upside down and shaking it, I was wondering if there is a product made to treat/help the aluminum that has been subject to sea water. I plan on running Sea Foam on a regular basis, anything else?

2. Generally, do boat tanks have an in tank pick up filter.

3. Alot of reference is made here to the VST filter. Is this the screen that does the 1/4 twist onto the bottom of the elect. injector pump?

4. I have had the engine running on 3 seperate occasions for about 20min. at a time and it idles rough and surges up and down through the entire RPM range, higer the RPM=more fluctuation. From the other posts this could be a fuel suction problem, does the vac. gauge go between the mech. pumps and the filter?

5. If someone could please help me find / verify part #'s for the what seems to be the 3 most important of the Yamaha "runability" test harnesses.

Test Light Indicator: 90890-06765
Throttle Position Sensor: 90890-06757
02 Sensor: Yamaha service manual does not list this one, help needed.

Just wanted to make sure the #'s before ordering.

6. There are two sets of wires off of the Rectifier/Regulator. Page 8-36 in Yamaha manual pictures what I would like to do. Run/Charge two seperate circuits from the R/R. There are two pairs of red wires that are the "Charge" wires for each circuit. My question is does anybody have a part # for the correct plug for this application. Currently my system only uses on leg for the entire operation. The dead leg has a round dummy plug installed with no pins. I was hoping Yamaha offered it as an electrical upgrade/second circuit kit. Any ideas?

Bonus Question- What in the world are those two square holes for on the back of the outboard right below the lower cowling? Is exhaust/smoke supposed to come from them.

Thanks again for all the insight. Take care, Jay

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Bonus Question. the two square ports are the Exhaust idle relief ports and yes smoke and if its in the water,water will exit the ports at low speeds.
I drink Bush Ice .
the other stuff, yes the VST filter is the one on the high pressure pump,yes the fuel system vacum guage goes between the lower lift pump and the engine filter as a starting place.
do ALL tank draw tubes have a screen? beats me but most do.
the yamaha diagnostic test lamp is a decent aid, usually tells me what I dont have to hunt for.
the answer to your charging question is in the Marine tech guides from about 01 to 08 but yes you can independantly charge a house battery AND the starting battery by simply adding the lead from the capped off Isolator lead to the second battery using the proper inline circuit protecton(fuse or Circuit breaker).
for additional part numbers also look at the rigging guides.
do you have the Factory Yamaha service manual? if you do it gives ALL the part numbers for each and every test harness so you can use your multimeter/DVA meter to look at all resistance specs and Voltage outputs from each sensor.
also carefully inspect the plug caps and a fuel rail pressure test is MANDATORY.

 

[Jay Dog]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Ding, ding, ding. Circle gets the square. Bush Ice...Ahh! the high octane! Beers in the mail

Thanks for the help Rodbolt.

Yes I do have the factory "Genuine" manual. I ordered for my specific year, so I believe it is either a 99 or 00 edition. It lacks the number for the 02 sensor test harness. In the electrical section, every sensor test walks you through and gives voltage parameters and part numbers except for the 02 sensor, it only has the voltages and ohms. In chapter 1 all of the numbers are given for all of the various harnesses, but are not I.D.'d as to what they perform. Looks like I have a one in eight chance at it. Part # for the manual is LIT-18616-01-99.

The Marine Tech Guides 01-08 that you speak of. Are these something I can get from a dealer or a copy of? If I remember correctly, the double red leads for both Engine and House circuits go directly from the R/R to the two main fuses in the junction box right above. These are the two heavy duty 80A. fuses. Is there need for more (lower amp.) protection down stream on the house circuit. Naturally I replaced the entire switch panel (corrosion) which the house system will power and a good share of the console wiring. Every circuit will be protected via its own proper amp'd fuse or circuit breaker, but just wondering about that main charge line. Seems like the 80A. ought to do it. Any hope of a part number for the added plug and line? Is this something a dealer can find for me? What exactly are the "rigging guides" you speak of?

Lastly, the plug caps...Are these the spark plug caps or boots? If so what do I look for, corrosion inside? Is this another common problem?

I'll be sure to do a Fuel Pressure Test this weekend.

Thanks for your help R.B. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

 

[rodboltw]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

while your at the dealer ask to look at about an 05 rigging guide and the 05 tech guide.
both should hold your answers.
yes all were avalible for sale to the general public.
plug cap checks are routine maint items.
latest part number for the O2 sensor test harness,YB-06999-00-00.
remember there are 3 tech bullitens about testing heater voltage,blue connector and output voltage,green connector.
disreguard that flame test one.
doesnt work.

 

[ghind]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Rodboltw has Rodbolt had a baby?

Any chance you'd send me the three o2 sensor bulletins?

Thanks
Greg

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

rodboltw is me at work, the w srands for worky worky.
I dont have the tech bullitens on my computer but they are avalible at any yamaha dealership.

 

[Jay Dog]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Hey Rodbolt,

My test harnesses arrived and I spent today putting them to use. As you might have expected...I have got a bucket full of questions for you.

1. Fuel Pressure- Hooked up a gauge and got a steady 34-36 psi from idle to 2500 rpm. Changed gauges on my tester to double check and got a steady 34-36 psi. Is this too low? I ran the vacuum test on the regulator at idle and was able to get it down to 22 psi with vacuum applied. When hooked back up to engine vacuum it never drops more than 34 psi up to 2500 rpm. I hooked up the gauge to the vacuum line that feeds the regulator to read engine vacuum. At Idle the needles bounces slightly between 9-11. Does this sound right?

On a side note about fuel, I replaced a suspicious check valve between the filter and lift pumps. I unscrewed the old one and the valve was stuck open with salt. No effect on runability, but engine fires up without hesitation now. Just mentioned as the regulator might be somewhat restricted too?

2. Changed the 02 sensor. Before I changed it I compared resistance of old and new. They were identical at 5 ohms. The manual says 100, what gives? Once installed with my test harness hooked up on engine the voltage went from .12 V. to around .7 volts in about 30 seconds after cold startup. But it wouldnt hold steady. The voltage would jump from .4 to .8 at all rpm's to 2500. Does this sound right?

3. Crank Position Sensor. Suspected this as it is one of the things to check in the Yamaha Manuals trouble shooting section for poor performance. Luckily the O2 sesor test harness fits the same plugs. Hooked up and started engine. This is where things get unlucky. Manual shows: .5v @ startup, 3v at 1500 rpm, 4v at 3500 rpm. I had .17 at idle ranging up to .7v at 2500 rpm. This is below what it should be so looks like its time to replace. Are these common to go bad? Resistance across the sensor is 206 ohms if this means anything. I hooked up my blinky-blinky harness and everything checks out good. 33 flashes for about a minute and then the 1 (normal flash) every 5 seconds. If the voltage was so low on the CPS would the ECM pick it up and flash a code?

4. Throttle Postion Sensor. It was at .55v closed. Set to .48v but I can only get a max of 4v out of it. Is it supposed to go to over 5 volts at wot?

Where I am now: Engine starts right up without hesitation cold or hot. Idle is steady but rough and gets downright nasty when brought up to 2500 rpm. I havnt gone past this as the engine blurbles up and down at any speed past 1500 rpm fluctuating greatly the higher I go.

Any more tips Rodbolt? Your guidance is greatly appreciated.

Just thought I'd post a pic of what you are helping me fix. She's been my labor of love for the past 8 months. Thanks again RB.

 

[ghind]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Fuel pressure is good. TPS is good. o2 sensor is probably good but need more information. At a steady RPM steady load, what o2 voltage range? An o2 sensor holding steady is a sign of a faulty o2 sensor. Normally it should be fluctuating mostly around 0.3 to 0.6 volts. What about at 4000rpm. o2 sensor needs to be checked in the water under load.

Are you testing in the water or on the trailer. This engine has a cylinder drop feature. I can't remember the details of it as the Ox66 Salt water and HPDI do it differently and my Ox66 Vmax doesn't do it at all. If you are testing on the trailer, this could be your problem.

You can check if it is doing that with a timing light.

Your service manual should tell you if the motor drops a cylinder when not in gear and/or below certain RPM.

You can also check the spark plug cap resistance.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

the 2.6L motors do not run any cylinder cutouts,only non V max 3.1L motors and HPDI use any type of cylinder cut out controls.
what type of meter are you using and with what adapter?
remember the O2 sensor is the heated type, the ONLY resistance spec is for the heater circuit not the output side.
all tests for sensor output MUST be done with the gearcase submerged and the boat unrestrained and according to the tech bullitens.
once you find the rail pressure can be maintained at the problem RPM why bother chasing fuel ghosts?
with all the water issues I would send the injectors out for proffesional testing/cleaning.
before ya get all jiggy about the fuel pressure regulator I really need you to tell me how and why fuel pressure regulation of the rail is nessasary as I really dont think you understand how speed density EFI actually operates.
once I figgure out your level of understanding it will aid me aiding you.
if the ECU detects any sensor failure,other than O2 sensor in range failures, it will lock timing at 7* BTDC increase idle speed and in most cases top speed cannot be reached.
remember that system uses a two speed pump, at low speeds and you use an artificial vacum source on the regulator it will do funny things.

 

[Jay Dog]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Hey RB,

Glad to hear from you. Let me answer some of your questions to see if I have got some of this stuff right.

1. I am using a DVOM. Its a Fluke "knock off" from harbor freight. They aren't known for making the best equipment but it has served me well and believe it to be accurate. The adapters I am using are the Yamaha Factory test harnesses so no problems accessing readings.

2. I think the 02 sensor is checking out o.k. As described in my post it does fluctuate from .4 to .8 volts rapidly after a few seconds of warm up time. The resistance test was done on the white wired "heater circuit". I think this may be some of my problem with understanding the resistance as it probably gets closer to 100 ohms as it heats up...I havnt checked the resistance when hot. 5 ohms is at room temp. which is where both of my new and old 02 sensors read.

3. CPS- I think I might have been reading the CPS wrong. I had the proper test harness pluged in on the two green wires to read peak voltage, but it seems as if I need a "Peak Voltage Adapter". This would make sense as the thousands of pulses or "Peaks" that the sensor is picking up every minute cant be read so fast by my meter. It just jumbles them up as one lump low voltage rather than collect the voltage spikes for every flywheel tooth. Does this sound right? Would the ECM pick it up if the voltages were not right. I know if will kick a code out for "No Signal" but how about low/incorrect signal.

4. Fuel Pressure- I am on the fence about suspecting/changing the F.P. Regulator. Due to the poor (salt infested) condition of everything else in the system I have inspected/replaced so far, I see no reason why the reg. would be in any different condition. If 34-36 psi is sufficient I suppose its doing its job. My main concern was the pressures...if they are within spec as the manual shows no "spec". The manual suggests the vac. test to see if the pressure drops under higher vac. rates. The way it seems like it works to me is that the reg. tries to keep a steady pressure as fuel flow (consumption) varies. As vacuum at idle is high, the reg opens just enough to allow a low flow rate with 34-36 psi. As the rpm's increase, vacuum drops and the reg. senses it from the vac line. It opens to allow more fuel flow while maintaining the constant pressure. The constant pressure is required to achieve a accurate spray rate and pattern for the injectors as they dont actually inject. If anything is injecting it is the pump. The injectors on this system are more or less just open and close gates for the fuel.


Howd' I do? A case of B.I. for me yet?

Speaking of the injectors, thanks for the testing/cleaning idea. I have been thinking about the condition of them. At $160-$200 a pop, I really dont want to replace. Never sent injectors in for rebuild. Any advice? Price estimate? Good injector shops?

5. I havnt checked the timing, but it idles at 700 rpm says the tach. Would the blinky light pick up this 7* BTDC / High Idle and flash a code. No codes are being flased other than the normal 33 for the first minute as ignition is being corrected for a cold start. After 45 sec.- 1 min. it goes to the regular 1 flash every 5 secs.

6. One thing that you mentioned a while back that I breezed right over was testing the plug caps. I pulled them this morning and found all at 4.2k - 5.8k ......all except for one mind you. The one in question is all the way up at 200k ohms. I can get it to fluctuate from 110k to 240k if i wiggle the cap around, but bottom line is I think its done. I stripped back the orange cap to further inspect it. Here is a pic:




Lets talk spark for a sec. In theory with that resistance, what would happen to the spark. Would there be any? I havnt checked it with my timing light and dont own a spark gap tester...yet. I really dont want to run it until I get the caps replaced to find out.

Any more thoughts R.B. Things are going slow as I have to wait about a week for parts everytime. Seems you guys on the east coast have way better pricing on parts. As always- 1,000,000,000 thanks. Take care, Jay

 

[ghind]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

With 10K ohms on a spark plug cap, that cylinder will sometimes stop firing under maximum load. Once it stops it will not go again until the load goes. It will work OK at other RPM. At 200K I'd be surprised if it was capable of firing with any load at all or even ever. You need a new cap. Not sure if that is your only problem though. My carby motor ran pretty nice when one spark plug was disconnected. Just weak thats all!

 

[Jay Dog]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

Alrighty, a little progress made. Just a quick update for all those following. I ordered all 6 spark plug caps...they should be here tomorrow. On the fuel side of things, I removed the injectors and dropped off at the local injector shop. They had them done the next morning. I talked to a tech about their condition. 2 of them were dripping when pressure was applied / would not hold steady pressure = a rich mix. The spray pattern wasn't that great after they started running them either. After a nice soak in the ultrasonic and a retest all were within spec and running like new. I'll pick em' up Friday and have an update for you guys this weekend. Thanks for the tips so far fellas, Jay

P.S. here is a link to the injector shop. They specialize in fuel injection systems and would recomend them.

http://www.rceng.com/

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 0X66 information pretty please?

you may be on the right track with the new caps and the injector cleaning.
the pressure regulator performs two functions, one is to maintain rail pressure as the injectors turn on and off the other is at rapid acceleration intake vacum drops and allows the diaphram in the regulator to close spiking fuel pressure by about 5 PSI acting similar to an accelerator pump.
at rapid acceleration the system uses both synchroneous and an asynchroneous injection the computer map allows for a certain injector on time measured in milliseconds, if you increase pressure for a givin on time you get more fuel in the intake.there is a screen in the regulator that needs cleaning occasionally.