115 V4

[Jeepster]

Absolute newbie as far as boat owner goes. Lookin at a clean '86 17' with the 115 v4. The price is right in my range, $2000 O.B.O. I could almost quote lexkeyboater verbatim as far as experience with engines goes. The boat was run last summer. What should I be lookin for when we go check it out? It will be a water hose driveway run. No real way to put it in the water before I buy it. I don't know the year of the motor yet, it just has the 115 V4 decals on it. ('bout an 84??) I'm dyin to get off the banks, retire my 2 heavers for awhile, and get down to the Morehead, Beaufort, Shackleford, Cape Lookout, Newport river, North river, area. I live in Goldsboro, NC. Tips? Advice? Thanks in advance. KR

 

[ezeke]

Re: 115 V4

If I could do only one test on an engine, it would always be a compression test. Second would be spark. Third would be gearcase pressure. Then there is always the acid test; will it run?​

 

[Jeepster]

Re: 115 V4

I've got a good compression gauge. I'll bring it when we check the boat out. It does run, but I don't know how well, or how well under load, etc. How do I confirm gearcase pressure? I haven't even gotten a manual yet. Just found the boat yesterday. Please bear with what might be dumb sounding questions. Lotsa time with a wrench in my hands, none with an outboard. Not to sound cocky, just pretty good with motors-stuff. Would like to go into this eyes open. Don't relish the idea of spending the spring bite wrenching on a motor I know nothing about yet. Thanks, KR

 

[ezeke]

Re: 115 V4

Compression test:

all spark plugs removed,
not required but engine should be warm if possible,
make sure that the threaded guage fitting is no longer than the spark plug's,
be consistent in the amount of time you crank for each cylinder.

The cylinders are numbered top to bottom with the top right cylinder being number 1.

Write your readings down so that you can refer to them.

Spark test: With all spark plugs out and a fully charged battery should jump at least 3/8" gap with a bright blue and snappy spark.

The gearcase should hold 10-12 psi for 15 minutes minimum. Use a MityVac or similar tester that has a guage and can be left in placeo n the upper vent plug..

Take someone along to move the throttle arm so that you can be sure that the gearcase is shifting properly.





​

 

[Jeepster]

Re: 115 V4

Excellent. Just what I was lookin for. Thanks. Will let ya know how it shakes out. KR

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 115 V4

that took care of the engine, now the boat. if you have a rubber mallot, take it tap around on the hull, solid wood in the transom sounds solid, rot sounds hollow. walk all over the floor checking for soft spots, look under the seats. if it has any access ports open them and look inside with a flash light. welcome to iboats. we're here to help.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 115 V4

They did not make a 115 in 86, so it would be interesting to know just what engine you have. It is easy to switch cowlings and confuse the real hp. The early 115's and 90's (up through 84) shared the flatback exhaust covers. They were the lower hp models. All the higher hp crossflows had the bubble back exhaust. These 115's started in 1985, and were 110 and 115 hp models. These later 110/115's are more desirable than the flatback ones. ezeke is right on about compression: look for it to be within 10% between all cylinders. If three are 125 and one is 90, that could be a problem. Good luck!

 

[rfiglia]

Re: 115 V4

Here is a good site to determine what year it is. The model# and serial# is located on the transom bracket. I have an 84 115 and its located on the port side. I have the flatback version. http://www.warnersdock.com/Modelyearlookup.htm
My 84 has 120psi in all 4 cylinders , not sure what the lowest acceptable is.
Good Luck...

 

[lexkyboater]

Re: 115 V4

Hey Jeepster, we have to stick together right? The help here is great, and I really appreciate it so we don't get burned. One thing I'd add to tashasdaddy's response is thoroughly check the transom (as well as the bottom of the hull). That GT 150 motor I've got ended up being attached to a boat that I've now determined is junk. Again, inexperience got the better of me. I can pull up and down on the tilted motor and can see the transom visually moving separate of the sides/top of the boat. Plus the left side of rear fiberglass deck/top is split too, and that moves when pulling down on the motor. I saw this when I bought it, and the guy pointed it out, but I thought that the fiberglass coating and paint had just pulled away from the transom, and that it was just superficial. As far as the area to the left of the transom, I thought that the trim had just come off. On closer inspection with some pushing and pulling, it's clear the boat will come apart in short order, especially with a huge 150 stressing it. Luckily I only have $1300 in it, including the service on checking the motor.

I ended up fixing this with an 83 Cheetah with a 93 Yamaha 115. Sweet running motor, but the boat needs a little minor attention like carpet. Upholstery is good, and comes with a 24 v trolling motor and 2 fish finders. Steering is stiff - real stiff at speed, dangerous in fact - but looks like previous owner didn't do any grease maintenance. It could be minor, or could need a new steering cable. I don't think it's a motor problem due to its really nice shape. It'll definitely get the job done and I have $2800 in it. I might try taking the junk boat's dual steering system out and putting it in the Cheetah, if it will fit/work. That steering is something else to look out for.