1915 Evinrude questions

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srukke

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Can someone explain what the brass ring located on the shaft above the lower unit does? I was assuming it has something to do with the ability or the lower unit to spin around into reverse. Also the carburetor adjustment screw on the top of the bowl, is it original? I saw another one and it was a round knob similar to the needle adjusting screw on mine.

Is there a good site that may have parts for this? I am debating whether to replace the flywheel which has had a sheave riveted on it. This motor still runs and is complete as far as I can tell. Should clean up nicely.

Oh, one more question, the skeg is bent and I was wondering if anyone has any experience or suggestions straightening out a brass skegDSC_4722.jpg12.jpgDSC_4715.jpg
 

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HighTrim

HighTrim

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

What is the serial number on the ID plate read?
 
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seahorse5

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

image-
 
JB

JB

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

You might find parts at aomci, srukke.
 
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seahorse5

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

srukke said:
So how about the couple questions I posed? I really can't figure out what the brass ring with the holes above the L/U does.
Click to expand...

the patent application dated 1917, it says [item 4] " the brass ring loosely encircles the shaft and provides an annular bearing for the pump plunger."
 
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srukke

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

Thought maybe someone would like to see my progress so far in restoring this beauty. DSC_5483.jpgDSC_5473.jpgDSC_5474.jpgDSC_5476.jpgDSC_5479.jpg
 
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Rick.

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

You must be buying Brasso by the drum! Looks like you're doing a great job. She's a head turner. Keep sending pictures. Best of luck. Rick.
 
Evil T2

Evil T2

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

With regards to the skeg straitening question - do not heat it to straighten. It probably got bent when it was cold, (or at least, at ambient air or water temp) so best to straighten it cold. If its a straight bend, you can clamp it in a vice between two lengths of wood and push it back. It will spring back a bit so you may have to "over-straighten" it in order to make it stay where you want it.

If its dinged and/or dented, you may be able to bump the shallow spots out by applying force from the opposite side. The skeg isn't real thick so any depressions on one side are likely to correspond with a high spot exactly opposite the low spot.

Severe pock marks or cracks may have to be brass welded or silver soldered.

Hope this helps.

Best,
T2
 
HighTrim

HighTrim

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

Evil T2 said:
With regards to the skeg straitening question - do not heat it to straighten. It probably got bent when it was cold, (or at least, at ambient air or water temp) so best to straighten it cold. If its a straight bend, you can clamp it in a vice between two lengths of wood and push it back. It will spring back a bit so you may have to "over-straighten" it in order to make it stay where you want it.

If its dinged and/or dented, you may be able to bump the shallow spots out by applying force from the opposite side. The skeg isn't real thick so any depressions on one side are likely to correspond with a high spot exactly opposite the low spot.

Severe pock marks or cracks may have to be brass welded or silver soldered.

Hope this helps.

Best,
T2
Click to expand...

Good to see you here Chris,
 
Evil T2

Evil T2

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

You're doing very nice work, which is nice to see, as your motor is worthy of the effort you're putting into it. You have a first-year motor inasmuch as 1915 was the first year that the Evinrudes were built with the flywheel magneto, wet exhaust, reversing lower unit, and Maxim Silencer muffler as standard equipment on all Model "A" rowboat motors. The magneto came out in 1914 but I'm not 100% certain that it was standard.....

The model "B" was still available as a non-reversing motor that could also be supplied with battery-ignition.

I see your flywheel is polished brass. They originally were nickel-plated. I've had a couple of these where I left the brass bare after polishing, mainly because I preferred the bright brass look. Also had a couple where I re-nickeled the flywheel, but if you decide to go that route, make sure the flywheel is completely demagnetized before you re-plate; otherwise it can pick up all sorts of metallic particles from the plating solution, and once they are plated onto your magnets, its a bear to get that stuff removed.

Hope this helps.

Best,
T2
 
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srukke

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Re: 1915 Evinrude questions

Thanks everyone for the comments and the tips. It is very much appreciated.
Actually my flywheel still has a nice nickel finish over the brass. Were you maybe looking at the picture of a different motor that was posted in the thread?
I have managed to straighten the skeg by laying it on a flat surface and using a rubber mallet on it. It straightened easily.
I have 4 fully restored motors and about 15 unrestored motors. For the restored ones I make sure they have good compression and good spark but still haven't been willing to put gas in them and run them. I don't plan on running this one but it was ran prior to disassembly. Luckily it has good spark. I did pull the piston out and hone the cylinder. These have really unusual piston rings. I take lots of pictures during the disassembly and resto process. Here's a couple of the disassembly. I'll post some pics of my other restored motors. DSC_5101.jpgDSC_5103.jpgDSC_5107.jpgDSC_5042.jpgDSC_5055.jpg
 
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