It's in good shape overall, and I found a ton of information online about it so far. here's the details:
1952 Elgin 5HP outboard 2-cyl
-Model # 571-58561
-Serial number: 561 17876
-Bore & stroke: 2" x 1-11/16"
-Cubic inches: 10.6
-Original carb: Tillotson model # 57A (57B interchanges if needed. MD39AX *may* interchange. Off 1951 6hp)
-Plug gap: 0.020"-.035"
-Modern plug designation: J11C
-Oil mix ratio: 1/2 pint:1Gal
**NOTE**
modern 2-stroke oil with the TCW-3 designation should be used on all water cooled motors.
Air cooled outboards should use 2-stroke oils with the TC designation such as used by weed whackers and chain saws.
Modern automotive oils should be avoided at all costs.
-Original paint: Marine Green
-Water cooled
-Full Reverse leg
-Neutral clutch shifter
-Automatic rewind
Mag setup:
Magnetos and Spark Plugs
The 1946 - 1954 Wico magnetos used three types of coils. The early coils are brown and have a 5/8" center lamination. These coils are usually still in good condition today and this type of magneto usually requires only a point cleaning and gapping to 0.020", and perhaps new spark plug wires. The second version magneto has the 5/8" laminations but the coils are covered with black plastic. These coils may be cracked but can be repaired with epoxy or other insulating material or they can be replaced with the earlier brown coils. The final magneto design uses black plastic covered coils with 7/16" center laminations. These coils are quite often cracked and may require replacement. If this type coil does need replacement, a 1950s style OMC coil can be substituted. On most models, the Wico points have a bakelite slider that slides in a groove in the magneto plate. This slider should be cleaned and lightly lubricated. Old oil or dirt in the groove can make the points sticky which results in a poorly running motor.
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I've rebuilt the carb (making my own gaskets) and got it to fire (in a water drum) and it will start up and run, albeit a bit choppy, but the impeller works, and it's pumping water.
Next step is to rebuild the magneto setup, which I'm pretty confident I can handle no problem.
After that, I need to change the lubricants. Where I'm hitting a stumbling block is I can't find any info on how to change the oil in the power head, what type it takes, or where the fill/drain plugs are. Doing all of this without a manual as well. If anyone has a manual they could send me copies of, that would be AWESOME, as I can then follow that for the last of my answers.
I think I found the info last night on how to repack the lower 90' gear for the prop, so I should be good there. Anything else I need to worry about perchance? This is only my 2nd outboard (first is a 7.5 mid 70's eska air-cooled and way simpler than this one overall) Just trying to perform all the needed maintenance before I fire this one up for a test drive at the local lake.
If I can get it runnings smoothly and reliably, I was planning on doing a nice "polished" look on the aluminum tank/recoil starter and tank mount, and then putting repop Elgin decal set on that once it's nice and shiny. Haven't seen ANYONE try and polish one out so it's gleaming. Just the original faded paint ones, or repaints in a similar marine green style. Thoughts? Suggestions? Any additional info at all on this little project would be greatly appreciated.
I've found several really nice websites with detailed info on this little old motor, just need the last few puzzle pieces...
Thanks!
-Jeff
1952 Elgin 5HP outboard 2-cyl
-Model # 571-58561
-Serial number: 561 17876
-Bore & stroke: 2" x 1-11/16"
-Cubic inches: 10.6
-Original carb: Tillotson model # 57A (57B interchanges if needed. MD39AX *may* interchange. Off 1951 6hp)
-Plug gap: 0.020"-.035"
-Modern plug designation: J11C
-Oil mix ratio: 1/2 pint:1Gal
**NOTE**
modern 2-stroke oil with the TCW-3 designation should be used on all water cooled motors.
Air cooled outboards should use 2-stroke oils with the TC designation such as used by weed whackers and chain saws.
Modern automotive oils should be avoided at all costs.
-Original paint: Marine Green
-Water cooled
-Full Reverse leg
-Neutral clutch shifter
-Automatic rewind
Mag setup:
Magnetos and Spark Plugs
The 1946 - 1954 Wico magnetos used three types of coils. The early coils are brown and have a 5/8" center lamination. These coils are usually still in good condition today and this type of magneto usually requires only a point cleaning and gapping to 0.020", and perhaps new spark plug wires. The second version magneto has the 5/8" laminations but the coils are covered with black plastic. These coils may be cracked but can be repaired with epoxy or other insulating material or they can be replaced with the earlier brown coils. The final magneto design uses black plastic covered coils with 7/16" center laminations. These coils are quite often cracked and may require replacement. If this type coil does need replacement, a 1950s style OMC coil can be substituted. On most models, the Wico points have a bakelite slider that slides in a groove in the magneto plate. This slider should be cleaned and lightly lubricated. Old oil or dirt in the groove can make the points sticky which results in a poorly running motor.
-----------
I've rebuilt the carb (making my own gaskets) and got it to fire (in a water drum) and it will start up and run, albeit a bit choppy, but the impeller works, and it's pumping water.
Next step is to rebuild the magneto setup, which I'm pretty confident I can handle no problem.
After that, I need to change the lubricants. Where I'm hitting a stumbling block is I can't find any info on how to change the oil in the power head, what type it takes, or where the fill/drain plugs are. Doing all of this without a manual as well. If anyone has a manual they could send me copies of, that would be AWESOME, as I can then follow that for the last of my answers.
I think I found the info last night on how to repack the lower 90' gear for the prop, so I should be good there. Anything else I need to worry about perchance? This is only my 2nd outboard (first is a 7.5 mid 70's eska air-cooled and way simpler than this one overall) Just trying to perform all the needed maintenance before I fire this one up for a test drive at the local lake.
If I can get it runnings smoothly and reliably, I was planning on doing a nice "polished" look on the aluminum tank/recoil starter and tank mount, and then putting repop Elgin decal set on that once it's nice and shiny. Haven't seen ANYONE try and polish one out so it's gleaming. Just the original faded paint ones, or repaints in a similar marine green style. Thoughts? Suggestions? Any additional info at all on this little project would be greatly appreciated.
I've found several really nice websites with detailed info on this little old motor, just need the last few puzzle pieces...
Thanks!
-Jeff
