1955 evinrude fleetwin 7.5 parts source and interchange

[Kawaiikeno]

I have a 1955 fleetwin 7.5 that's been in the family since new that I'd like to put back into service. Last used by me 35 years ago.
It has seen very limited use over the years but has no spark at the moment. I took the side covers off for a look see at the pistons and cylinders, they look fine. The plan is to check the points and coils rebuild the carburetor put it back together and enjoy it. If it is possible to get all the gaskets and parts I wouldn't mind doing rings and a light hone first.
I see the carb. kits,coils online but haven't had any luck with powerhead gaskets.
My question is I see gasket sets for other older evinrudes mainly the 5.5 hp is there any interchangeability.
Any sources and part numbers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mike

 

[F_R]

The 5.5 and 7.5 hp powerheads are different and parts are not interchangeable. Personally, I would not take the powerhead apart without good reason. But you do need to replace the water pump impeller in addition to the stuff you mentioned. Powerhead has to be removed to access the impeller. Always replace the 303355 gasket and 303347 o-ring on the seal assy under the powerhead, and you will need a new 303467 powerhead base gasket. All that stuff is available here at iboats

 

[Crosbyman]

to work on your oldy go to the boat info url below and print of the applicable sections in PDF files you also have good videos on the subject ​

http://www.boatinfo.no/ ​

go to the book stack …….. choose Johnson on the selections………. then select the RED book​

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY2HrEdp5vg for the impeller job ​

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVOedhzPP7M​

to time your ignition ...​

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be​

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm​

in the event you want to use a single fuel line... (some folks like pressure tanks some dontT... it is up to you ) ​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojOMbwvH55I​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtG4M7ye1N8​

good luck and visit the AOMCI site ​

 

[oldboat1]

^^^All good info!!

(Don't fix what ain't broke.)

 

[lindy46]

Check compression before tearing into the powerhead.

 

[Crosbyman]

and… be careful pulling the power head so as not to loose or damage these parts and when replacing the base gasket match the new one to the old to confirm it is the proper one .. patterns differ


a good book to have ….

https://www.amazon.com/Cheap-Outboards-Beginners-Making-Forever/dp/1891369628

 

[Kawaiikeno]

Great info !
Is there any interchangeability between years I'm having a hard time with parts lists for a 1955.
The reason for taking the side covers off is there was a lot of white corrosion behind the carburetor extending all the way to the reed plate.
Compression on the top cylinder runs about 65psi dry and 75 with a shot of oil, lower is better at 80 dry and 85 with a shot of oil that's why I was thinking a light hone and rering.
Thanks Mike

 

[Crosbyman]

someone on here surely has the parts list if not go ask the folks on AOMCI

no sense in spending to much $$$ here .........start with basics compression #s low but it can still run and… improve

1= get sparks
2- clean the carb ...hoses… filter etc....
3- change the impeller

all depends on how much you want to revive it

 

[Kawaiikeno]

Looks like someone has been under the flywheel appears to have new coils, I did notice that the coil to flywheel gap is .065 which seems excessive to me and the points were not set correctly.
I set then to .020 I'll replace the plug wires tomorrow as they are brittle put it back together enough to check for spark.
If there is spark I'll order a carb kit and the gaskets and a pump and a new fuel hose, I don't think I'll convert it to single line it's been that way for 64 years whats a few more.
Mike

 

[oldboat1]

If the coil laminations are absolutely flush with the machined edge of the mounting posts, the magnet air gap will be correct.

 

[Crosbyman]

you will not need a " pump" if you stay with a pressure tank

plug wires must be metallic not the carbon wires on modern cars 7mm is needed

I also stuff dielectric grease in the coil end connections to prevent humidity and eventual corrosion (up to you)

condensers may be bad ….just keep that in mind in case problems creep up after the rebuild

check the tank for pin holes ..I dumped 5 gal of fuels out my tilted boat …. the grass changed color rather quickly

 

[Kawaiikeno]

I might be rethinking the not converting the fuel lines. Seems I have two tanks minus the hose ends.
For what they get for one end I can convert it over to match the 1972 4hp evenrude for which I have 3 6gal tanks and buy 20 gallons of gas and oil.
Good call on the plug wires everything I had laying around were carbon, I had to get ones for a tractor lucky for me the parts store next door had some.
Good news is after setting the points and replacing the plug wires ( I even used the dielectric grease and heat shrink with sealer) I now have good spark.
Mike

 

[Crosbyman]

I have had good luck using the round B&S pump also called Mikuni or john deere or kohler pumps using the modified channel and pressure pump nipple behind the carb ..see utube btw you need a 2 pin line connector to replace the 3 pin dual hose connector

also mounted a aquare OMC pump on a aluminum plate over a side cover if your 1955 has them I also drilled tappedand nippled a cover port on a FD see pic.

 

[Kawaiikeno]

I did end up converting to a fuel pump. The motor runs but when throttle is increased it started to rattle and run badly not wanting to do any more damage I took it to a marina who works on a lot of the older Evinrudes, he closes for the winter but will work on it as time permits. In the mean time an Evinrude service manual became available and in reading it is apparent when I replaced the coil wires I removed the advance cam and when replacing it I just bolted it back on without any thought given to adjustment. So it is my hope that it is operator error on my part and it will run again.

 

[thatone123]

I got one of these from a old trappers cabin in the far North...probably sat for 20-30 or more years...had good compression. many think rings lose compression and imagine them sitting against the cylinder under pressure that they will lose over time.( I used to think that) I have had it explained to me that the rings are not under pressure of any kind when static, but expand against the cylinder under engine vacuum and compression. Some old hands can correct that if I'm wrong! IT will and can run again somehow or the other.

 

[racerone]

123 is wrong.------They do exert pressure on the cylinder wall when engine is static.

 

[thatone123]

OK, next logical question then is Do the rings lose tension from sitting static for long periods of time?

 

[racerone]

Not by any amount that you can measure.------Materials behave according to ----" hooke's law "

 

[thatone123]

Yes, I believe that of course there is some pressure when you rebuilt a motor you can see that. But, These racing experts I read said that max pressure is reached when the engine is running and compression mashes the rings against the cylinder walls. That is why some rings have that lip on them that helps force the ring against the wall. If the rings were at full tension in the static mode they would lose tension over time.

 

[racerone]

Just more nonsense-----You are now talking about pressure from combustion and that would NOT be the same as tension from spring action.----Time to read some factual books I say.----Are you familiar with something called ----" Hooke's Law " on materials