1956 lightwin problem and question

[krs60]

I spent $115 on a tune-up (coils, condensors, points, carb rebuild kit, and impeller). I set points at .020" and it is getting fuel and spark. It won't start or even act like it wants to start. I was looking at Toms site http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Default.htm and in the carb tune-up and he says "There is no high speed adjustment on this motor so only the slow speed needle needs adjusting". Mine has the high speed needle, is this right? I noticed fuel leak at the high speed needle and it might be my starting issue. Any ideas will be helpful.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

The diagram in the PARTS CATALOG shows a high seed adjustmnent.

So does the diagram on Toms tune up site:

Follow Joe Reeves' procedures for adjusting the needles on the Engine FAQs board: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=167352

If you have a leak at the high sped needle try tightening the packing nut a little. If that does not work then the packing will have to be replaced.

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

I guess i'll take carb completely off and rebuild. I replaced packing and tightened nut even more and it still leaks. So, bad packing or bent needle.

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

My carb has the high speed needle and Tom's site shows his does not have the high speed needle. Mine is bent and want to know if i could replace with a carb without the high speed needle or is that not recommended?

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

If it's bent, then you can unscrew it and see if you could possibly straighten it out. Lay it on a 2x4 and tap it with a hammer to straighten it. Worst case scenario, you'll need to get another needle, but may as well try fixing your old one first. The Low speed need sets at 1 1/2 turns out, from lightly seated and high speed is at 3/4 turn out. Once you get it running, tweek the high speed needle in a little at a time at WOT until it runs smoothe and you should be good to go.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Check the end of both needles while you are doing the carb rebuild. If there is a visible groove in the needle tip/taper, someone has repeatedly cranked them down too tight and they might not seat/seal. If your high speed needle is toast, post a free wanted ad on the classifieds at www.aomci.org
Save that motor at all costs...they are really sweet and reliable when you get the minor bugs fixed and maintain it correctly.

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

I finally found time to work on this again. I got the leak at the high speed needle fixed (replaced packing washers) and got it running, runs pretty nice! New issue...when i was first trying to start it there was fuel leaking from somewhere like it was flooding. It started, fuel stopped leaking, and everything seems fine other than it runs best when low-speed needle is turned all the way in . Float problem?

 

[Sir Robin]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Is it a new float? The old ones are "sinks" not floats. alcohol, you know.......
also be sure to adjust the drop as well as the level

 

[Sir Robin]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

vic s- Nice picture of carb.....

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Is it a new float? The old ones are "sinks" not floats. alcohol, you know.......
also be sure to adjust the drop as well as the level

It is the original "sink" and i do not know what you mean when you say "alcohol, you know......." I'm younger and never dealt with a cork "sink" which i thought was a float. Could i get some help on adjusting the level and drop, maybe a link? My rebuild kit didn't have instructions and now i feel it might be adjusted wrong.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Sink would be a joke, it is still float either way. Alcohol in the gas, ethenol to be exact will eat away at the cork varnish and then the cork itself, then the cork becomes saturated and won't float. If you did not replace the float it may be time to do so. If it runs best with the low speed all the way in then the carb is not clean "enough". Did you get a full kit to redo the carb or just washers?

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

I got the full kit 2 times now. I soaked carb parts in gallon of carb cleaner for 30 minutes each time and blew carb out with compressed air. I replaced gaskets, packing washers, needle, and needle seat. So turning the slow-speed needle in richens it up, correct? I'll order a new float today and might as well clean carb another time.

 

[Daviet]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Static setting for the low speed jet = lightly seat jet all the way IN, back out 1 1/2 turns and adjust with engine running for best RPM and then another 1/8 turn out.
Turning needle IN will LEAN the mixture.
Turning needle OUT will RICHEN the mixture.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

See Joe Reeves' item on " Carb Needle Adjustments" on the "Engine Frequently Asked Questions" board for full detailed instruction on accurately adjusting the carb needles.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Did you remove the welch plug when cleaning, important step people don't do sometimes.

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Did you remove the welch plug when cleaning, important step people don't do sometimes.

No. Is that possibly the small disc at top of carb in picture above? What is under welch plug (how careful do i need to be when removing it)? Also, it looks like i need a new float from dealer that is made for using with the ethanol. Someone told me to seal the cork float but i want to do it right. Thanks for the replies, it's all making alot of sense!

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

And i did follow the "joe Reeves carb adjustments", that's why i knew all the way in was incorrect.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Get a new float, don't waste your time sealing anything old. Yes the small disc, under it are a series of tiny holes at allow you to control the amount of air in the mix at idle, hence the "low speed adjustment". Those holes can get blocked up and the only way to properly clean them is to remove the welch plug and clean out the holes. Sometimes they are plugged, sometimes not but when rebuilding a carb you can't get around these nuances. Some people drill a small hole in them and pry them out, I just punch through the center with a small punch and pry them out. Installation is convex side up and then I use a hammer and 3/8inch socket extension to flatten the plug upon reassembly.

 

[krs60]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

I removed the welch plug to clean under it and found passages are very clean but cleaned anyways. I got the rebuild kit from dealer and will re-build for the 3rd time along with replacing float. Any last tips or thoughts before it goes back together? Is it possible the extra fuel from faulty float is why i had to screw low-speed needle all the way in (lean) for it to idle good? Unless there is another hidden passageway, carb is very clean.

 

[Vic.S]

Re: 1956 lightwin problem and question

Any last tips or thoughts before it goes back together? Is it possible the extra fuel from faulty float is why i had to screw low-speed needle all the way in (lean) for it to idle good?

The fact that you had to screw the idle mixture screw in fully is consistent with the carb flooding slightly .. due to defective/ incorrectly adjusted float or non-seating valve.. rather than with a dirty carb.

If you had found it necessary to open the mixture adjustment or to have needed the choke in order to keep it running a dirty carb would have been the likely cause.