1956 Running and cooling issues

[Tyler_B]

Hi, I have a 56 evinrude 10hp sportwin. It sat in a barn for idk how long before I got it, I cleaned the points, replaced the spark plugs and impeller. The engine runs, but I screwed up the throttle be disconnecting the brass piece that connects to the spindle that is controlled by the tiller. So if any of you know how to line that back up so it matches what the tiller says, that would be great. Also the engine only spits out a mist of water out of the exhaust and the engine gets pretty hot to the touch, idk if it even has a thermostat and I definitely don't know where its at. Once the engine starts, it won't throttle up whenever I open up the throttle on the carburetor. I'm very new to working on outboards/2-strokes, so in your replies please talk to me like you're talking to an idiot, because you are haha. Any help would be great, I'm sorry if my post is confusing, if it is just say so and I'll try to elaborate a little more.

 

[racerone]

There is no thermostat.----------Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on each lead, yes or no ?

 

[Tyler_B]

There is no thermostat.----------Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on each lead, yes or no ?

The spark is kinda weak, so no I don't think they do. Do you know how much water should be squirting out where the exhaust is?

 

[lindy46]

How did the coils look? Cracked and broken or did it look like they have been replaced? You must have the lower unit deep enough in the water so the water pump is submerged - water level should be about 2" below the exhaust bypass outlet hole on the back of the leg. Most likely needs a new water pump impeller. Most of the exhaust exits underwater.

 

[Tyler_B]

How did the coils look? Cracked and broken or did it look like they have been replaced? You must have the lower unit deep enough in the water so the water pump is submerged - water level should be about 2" below the exhaust bypass outlet hole on the back of the leg. Most likely needs a new water pump impeller. Most of the exhaust exits underwater.

The coils didn't look bad at all, and it has a new impeller, and I also put it in the water deep enough.

 

[Tyler_B]

This may have something to do with the lack of water coming out, but the there is a screw missing from the cover that covers the impeller. The other two screws are holding it pretty tight though, but maybe some water could be getting blown out from where that one screw is missing?

 

[F_R]

Close, but not quite. It likely is sucking air where it is not held down tightly.

In your OP you mentioned it won't speed up if you open the throttle on the carburetor. Well, it shouldn't. The spark must be advanced at the same time.

Water discharge should be a healthy spray being blown out by exhaust.

No thermostat on a '56

 

[Tyler_B]

Thanks for the replies, however do any of you know if there is a certain way to reconnect the rod the turns as the tiller does to the brass piece that moves the stator plate? No matter how I hook it back up, it won't let me turn the tiller all the way to the fast setting.

 

[HighTrim]

It has to be in forward gear to full travel, you are in fwd gear correct?

 

[F_R]

What High Trim said.

In addition, the gears alignment where the tiller tilts is obvious. Then it goes to the bevel gear to the vertical shaft gear. First tooth in bevel gear aligns with first groove in other gear. Is plastic pin in the bottom end of vertical shaft OK?

Finally, the wording on the dial is never real accurate. Think more of it as "Fast is this way", and "Slow is that way".

 

[Tyler_B]

What High Trim said.

In addition, the gears alignment where the tiller tilts is obvious. Then it goes to the bevel gear to the vertical shaft gear. First tooth in bevel gear aligns with first groove in other gear. Is plastic pin in the bottom end of vertical shaft OK?

Finally, the wording on the dial is never real accurate. Think more of it as "Fast is this way", and "Slow is that way".

The plastic pin is broken completely off in the piece that sticks up and connects to the brass piece that moves the stator plate. Is it really important?

 

[F_R]

Well, it certainly introduces a lot of slack in the shaft to gear connection.

 

[racerone]

I would say that plastic piece is very important.----Get a new one and it is in stock at most real shops.----Have a couple of those pieces in brass made before they went to plastic.It is actually easy to make that piece out of aluminum /steel rod as well just need a hacksaw and a file.

 

[Tyler_B]

Okay, I'll make a new pin. As far as how the motor is running, it's not spitting out any water, and when it's running it starts to idle really fast and then just shuts off. I put a new impeller in it, why wouldn't it be putting out any water?

 

[Tech Tony]

Is the water tube clear, and plugged into the 2 rubber grommets?

 

[Tech Tony]

Mabey take the exhaust port cover off and check the water passages in the powerhead to see if there clogged up. you don't want to let it run hot for long.

 

[Tyler_B]

Is the water tube clear, and plugged into the 2 rubber grommets?

The tube that connects to the pump is clear, and is set in the lower grommet well, and I'm guessing it's going into the upper one just fine since I can fit the lower unit back onto the casting. I'm starting to think there is a clog however, but I just don't know how to clear it or check to see if there is one.

 

[Tyler_B]

Mabey take the exhaust port cover off and check the water passages in the powerhead to see if there clogged up. you don't want to let it run hot for long.

Is there anyway you could show me what you're talking about, like with a diagram or something of that nature? I'm very new to outboard service, so I know what the powerhead is but not the exhaust port cover.

 

[lindy46]

Is the impeller drive pin in place?

 

[Chinewalker]

The idles fine then speeds up and dies issue sounds like it's running out of fuel. Is the gas cap closed on the tank? Any leaks at the fuel fitting?