1956 - timing marks and throttle position

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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10,486
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

There are no pre made timing marks on the flywheel itself that I know of for both cylinders on the '56 RD. That is what I believe you are looking for, or thought to have found?? Im not sure what you are aligning with your meter and flywheel on? I believe I have read on here where guys that did not have a timing fixture marked up their flywheel to be able to set the points timing with a meter. I have a timing fixture so have never done this myself. Trust Joe, if you don't have a fixture, set the gap at 020 with the rubbing block aligned with the flywheel key and be done. Simple and easy.
 

nwcove

Admiral
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May 16, 2011
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6,293
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Not working out.
I have an ohm meter attached to points, coil and condensor disconnected.
Timing marks are no where near they should be.
I can manipulate the "advance/retard" mechanism and get it "closer" but the closest I can get the flywheel mark to the double hash marks is 2 1/2 inches. Motor WAY early. I see the ohm meter showing open and close. but access hole to points is looking down onto a coil.
If I knew what to take a pic of to help this along - I would.

My plan was to line up the points felt with the key in the shaft, gap the points - this would (should) get me close.
The ohm meter was to be the exacting finishing stroke to the job - but it aint working out that way.

If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks

as per hightrims last comment, that there are "no timing marks on the flywheel", is it possible that the flywheel is not the correct one for the motor? pics would be nice!
 

OptsyEagle

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Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,361
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I have a 1961 5.5Hp motor, a 1975 9.9Hp motor and a 1976 15Hp motor. I have used the multi meter method on all of them, quite a few times. Every time I have the timing set absolutely perfect, I then move the cam to the points rub bar as we described above and measure what the points gap is. Every single time I measured the gap it measured 0.020". Not 0.019" and not 0.021".

What I am saying is if you move the cam so that your point's rub bar is in front of the flywheel key, and set the point gap to 0.020", you are done. You do not need a timing fixture and you do not need a multi meter. Setting the points gap to 0.020" is how OMC wants you to set the timing. It works, use it.
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

While I agree with Optsy above, the timing fixture/meter combination gets the cylinders to fire exactly 180 degrees apart. That is the critical thing, for running quality/idle. That is hard to do with feeler gauges alone.
 

Vintin

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 12, 2011
Messages
223
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I was surprise that when using the timing fixture that I must not have been right on 0.20 with the feeler gauge as there was a difference of a degree or more. I believe the timing fixture I have is a direct copy of what OMC made at the time. The timing fixture is a more direct measurement of spark/piston position.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I think I'll go get a drink!
 

F_R

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Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

I have been in e-mail contact with pro-crastinator, and advised him that he is making this far too complicated. A simple feeler gage setting of the points when aligned with the keyway as described here several times will make it run. He can forget all the other stuff that has been mentioned here in good faith. A timing fixture and meter does make the adjustment more accurate and is easier. But in all honesty, it is not an absolute necessity for messing with just one motor. They are nice to have, and I'd be glad to sell him one though. Above all, I want to be honest.
Frank
 

pro-crastinator

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Dec 12, 2013
Messages
453
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

Ok, Few items to address.
Firstly, thanks to one and all for spending valuable personal time on this project that I am determined to make as complicated as possible. (wife accuses me of this regularly)

I understand the point gap method. Was crawling around distributors when I was 16. Thought that electronic ignition was just great ? and here I am now. Funny how stuff comes full circle.
So yes. I was gapping the points and THEN coming behind and trying to set em with the ohm meter.

Now to the timing marks.
The flywheel is clean as a whistle and I was able to locate the two marks on it ? 180 degrees apart.
?Painted? them with whiteout and hit the hatch mark with a marker so it would stand out.
Flywheel marks are cast in the aluminum. Protruding. Not a notch. Clear as a bell.
Note that motor is a model 25924 which is an early 1956 model.
Regarding the hypothesis that the flywheel was changed ? I have to tip my hat but declare that improbable. It matches everything perfectly even with the lack of ?dirt/soot/crud? on it and the rest of the motor. Also fits like a glove.
Pics.


Is the armature plate flopping around?
This would be the plate that the coils and points are fastened to. No. Its secure.
The plate DOES advance/retard with the throttle movement.

I am decided to set the points from the key way position as it points to the felt rub on the points.
I will button up the electrics and cross my fingers ? and then proceed to carb dis assembly.
Plan to sleep on it and see what tomorrow will bring. That drink sounds like a good idea about now.

Thanks guys. More later.IMG-20131221-00275.jpgIMG-20131221-00278.jpgIMG-20131221-00276.jpg
 

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OptsyEagle

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Sep 13, 2006
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1,361
Re: 1956 - timing marks and throttle position

The thing you will need to understand about point timing is that as soon as you get it to that 180 degree perfection and start using the motor, the timing will slowly start to move past that 180 degree perfection, from the wear on the points rub bar. The wear is a lot larger on new points then used but it is still there. I think one of my manuals even says to set the gap on a new set of points at 0.022" to accommodate some quick wear on the rub bars. This is why these points should to be reset every few years or so as a regular tune up.

If we were in an Indy 500 boat race and your pit team could adjust these things in 9 seconds or less, that timing fixture would be mandatory, but you are not. If your timing is off by a degree or so, I doubt you will not notice it.
 
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