1957 35hp Evinrude Lark Help

[jimmbo]

Looking at you first photo, it looks like you are missing the air silencer.

 

[oldboat1]

seems to be missing the knob for the harness plug too. I used a hex bolt on the last one I had, but seemed to be getting a ground short there. Still not sure what that was about (motor is gone now) -- not sure whether it's designed as a ground point. I suspect I was getting a short in the wiring within the plug, but won't solve that one I guess.

 

[oldboat1]

It might be useful to rig up a simple wire harness for starting and testing, and save rebuilding the original one for later. Did that on one of the last two I had, but have to admit I didn't get back to rewiring the original harness -- but had a great running motor. It's a very simple starting system, so lends itself to rigging a test system. When you have the motor ready for prime time, can go back for the rest.

 

[jimmbo]

Oops, I see the silencer sitting apart in the blue container on the floor

Definitely a case of me opening my mouth so I could change feet

 

[Squirrel42]

Thanks Crosbyman for the service manual link.. That helped a considerable amount! Thank you Lindy46 for the continuous help and power supply information. I'll have to go about rigging up a starter, for now, pull start is fine. Until I can get a spark tester or do it the old fashion way I went ahead and pulled the lower unit. I discovered some bad news, it appears I'm missing the seals under the impeller and all the oil leaked up into the muffler housing?. This explains all the honey like liquid coming from the muffler housing when i put it on the stand. Looks a little rusty along the tube down to the gears, every thing still turns great. How concerned do i need to be about the little amount of rust? What seal is missing around the water pump? The gear rod came out of the housing extremely easy is that normal? This looks terrible! I included some seriously sad pictures..

 

[Squirrel42]

No Title

 

[jimmbo]

On that engine the driveshaft just slides into the pinion gear. While there are 3 bearing that support the pinion, none of them run on the driveshaft itself that low in the case, so that bit of rust is of no concern. There a bushing an inch or so below the water pump seals. It looks like there was/is some water in the gearcase, I suggest you take it apart to inspect it.

I included the centerfold of the 1957 Big Twin owners manual. Sorry about the poor quality

 

[Crosbyman]

imho... not that terrible just another step in the learning curve. lots of good utube videos on fixing, extracting ,inserting shaft seals and shift rod seals ...and prop shaft seals including spagetti seals.
​fisrt thing to go is wash all the honey stuff to make you feel better and see where you are going :cold:​

 

[lindy46]

I discovered some bad news, it appears I'm missing the seals under the impeller and all the oil leaked up into the muffler housing?. This explains all the honey like liquid coming from the muffler housing when i put it on the stand. Looks a little rusty along the tube down to the gears, every thing still turns great.
How concerned do i need to be about the little amount of rust? What seal is missing around the water pump? The gear rod came out of the housing extremely easy is that normal?

/QUOTE]

Seal is there - sits just below the water pump plate - it's probably just shot from being original. Here's the seal kit for your motor, available right here at Iboats:
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...gd_poid=110561&gd_row=29&session_id=934600853
You'll need a hook-type seal puller to remove the old driveshaft seal (available at any auto parts store). There is also a seal (o-ring) where the shift rod passes through from the gearcase to the exhaust housing. It is held in place by a brass bushing which needs to be driven out with a special tool (which I use). Others on here may have other suggestions to remove that seal, and I'm sure they'll step in to help. There is also a propshaft seal, which is pretty easy to change, a small o-ring which seals the pivot pin, a large o-ring which seals the propshaft bushing, and a spaghetti seal which seals the skeg to the upper half of the gearcase. You'll also need some sealer when putting the skeg and skeg bolts back together. I use Permatex #2.

 

[lindy46]

Oh, and while you're in the gearcase, inspect the clutch dog and drive gears for excessive wear. If the clutch dog ears are rounded or chipped, it will need replacing. Better to replace it when the gearcase is apart than to have to reopen the case later.

 

[oldboat1]

from the links up at the top, in the Secret Files: http://www.fiberglassics.com/wiki/images/e/ea/Johnsonservice002.pdf Will add a vote for clean up. Chances are you are seeing mostly exhaust residue and water. The gearcase is sealed -- vulnerable around shafts, which is what you are correcting with the resealing. You can distinguish between exhaust residue and gear oil by smell (gear oil has a sulphur smell, the rest smells like gas). Some brass wool can be useful for cleanup (sometimes in the furniture refinishers section), sanding sponge, abrasive plastic pads. The stainless wear plate under the impeller can usually be cleaned up and reused.

Agree with all the above input. Clutch dog was sometimes an issue on the 35s, so good to check like Lindy says. Need to rig up a pressure tester for use either before or after working on the gearcase, before refilling. I test with the detached l.u. in a tub of water, looking for air bubbles to indicate leaking seals.

 

[Crosbyman]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCkpGD4bgDI

starting video....... lots of good stuff on UTUBE if you search Evinrude seal replacement

not stretching and cutting the spagetti seal square 90 degrees with the bearing carrier is critical

 

[Squirrel42]

No Title

Built a Gear case pressure tester for kicks.. It leaks through the shift rod seal and the gear rod seal. No rust in the case, just a little water mixed with gear oil.
All the seals are blown, but what can the expect from an engine that's sat for 30 or more years.

I uploaded a picture with something i cant explain, maybe damage maybe not?

Found a great review on Shift rod seal replacement but nothing on the seal under the pump.
Does this new seal kit come with the seal under the water pump?
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=934600853

 

[racerone]

The gears and bearings in these older motors are much more robust that what you would find in say a 1996 model 35 HP.

 

[oldboat1]

(no seal under that impeller plate -- not an opening to the gearcase/gearcase oil)

 

[Crosbyman]

isn't part #8 a seal .... for the main shaft running down to the gears in th gearcase...below the water pump like in most engines ?

 

[jimmbo]

The parts look good for having sat so long. As mentioned earlier, check the gears and the clutch dog contact points for rounded edges. The forward and reverse gears are identical and can be swapped if the contact points are worn, however the bushing in each is different and need to remain in the same place on the propshaft. Be sure to swap the clutch dog around too.
In 1972, my dads 35 Big Twin decided to start slipping in lower end. The front bearing had chunk holes in the rollers, its race was split, like someone hacksawed across it. We found that the front bearing was the same part number that was used as the outer front wheel bearing of a chevy 1/2 ton truck of the era. Replaced the bearing and race, swapped the gears around and ran for three more weeks before it stared to slip again but by then summer was over.

 

[HighTrim]

There is most definitely a seal under the water pump impeller plate.

If you buy a seal kit, it should contain the following:

New drive shaft o ring
New prop shaft seal housing o ring
New pivot pin o ring (small Phillips screw on skeg)
New drive shaft seal (under water pump)
New prop shaft seal
New shift rod seal (really an o ring)
New spaghetti seal
new crush washers for drain/vent screw

If you need any help with resealing, let us know. I can forward you some instructions I have typed up with pictures if you PM me your email address. there are a few tricks to this, which we have all screwed up on , but can save you a little frustration for your first time.

While the gearcase is off, most definitely change the impeller, and inspect the grommets, they are often dry rotted, or deformed. If either, toss them. Grease the new ones, to ease in gear case installation. Inspect the housing for damage, but I have done thousands of them, and almost always re use them. They are very robust.

If the coils are good, someone has already been in there, which saves you some money. Still, clean and dress the points, and re set, and test for bright blue spark that will jump a 1/4" gap, before re torqueing down the flywheel.

Take the carb off, clean and rebuild, along with updated fuel lines, if they are original.

Your compression is great. Great idea to test, before spending any more money.

Keep us updated, lots of great guys here to help.

 

[oldboat1]

isn't part #8 a seal .... for the main shaft running down to the gears in th gearcase...below the water pump like in most engines ?

yup. No seal for the stainless plate -- none needed.

 

[jimmbo]

But there is a seal below the stainless plate