1957 evinrude Big twin 35

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
If it were something in the reeds. Would I notice it upon removing the cover on the carb side? Or could it be debris on the piston side? I actually checked it a day ago and they look spotless on the carb side but I didn't fully remove....I don't wanna give up on this baby but my patience is wearing thin.

With that bit of info, it probably isn't the reeds. I was thinking more of some kind of critters that may have built a nest in there during storage.
 

Sea18Horse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
626
Yes, and thanks FR. High Trim, I have 90 in each for compression with the pull start. I have tried spraying WD and oil gas mix with and occasional backfire sound and that's about all I get. I rebuilt magneto(coils, points, condensers), I have spark that jumps almost 1/4". I rebuilt carb. The starter engages flywheel beautifully but the minute I cut power to starter the motor stops. ( I'm giving the starter power directly from a battery) for testing purposes. I have not gotten it running. It seems like it's running when the starter is turning the flywheel. Could it be maybe it's only running on one cylinder? I'm at a loss.

Here you say you have a spark that jumps "almost" 1/4 inch. Really it needs to jump at least 1/4 inch open air gap. preferably significantly more. You really need a good adjustable spark checker. Just holding the wire about that far away more or less isn't accurate enough.

Cheers...........................Todd
 

geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2010
Messages
395
If you have set the points according to the TS files they should be good.Have you actually checked that fuel is getting from your newly installed pump to the carburetor?Remove the fuel line at the carburetor end and crank the motor,fuel should come out.If it doesn't perhaps you installed the pump with the inlet and outlets reversed.Also make sure the plug wires are on the correct plugs.Simple stuff I know but I bet we have all done it at sometime or other.
 

eolsen

Seaman
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
67
Ok here's the latest. I pulled the flywheel n reset the timing. I now have a thick blue spark that'll jump the Grand Canyon , well it jumps a half inch and more. So I have that dialed in. I have the pump n plug wires correct Geoff( I double checked) :) so here's the newest item I found which I think is the problem. I noticed the joint on the bypass side of the motor,where the crankcase half meets the cylinder half was slightly leaking fuel, which I'm assuming is causing me two things. Reduction in compression, and improper fuel feeding to the crankcase. I'm pretty sure the seal strip(spaghetti gasket) is shot. Could this be causing my problems of it not starting? I hope you'll say yes and not dash these hopes. What does everybody think?
 

singer202

Cadet
Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
24
Ok here's the latest. I pulled the flywheel n reset the timing. I now have a thick blue spark that'll jump the Grand Canyon , well it jumps a half inch and more. So I have that dialed in. I have the pump n plug wires correct Geoff( I double checked) :) so here's the newest item I found which I think is the problem. I noticed the joint on the bypass side of the motor,where the crankcase half meets the cylinder half was slightly leaking fuel, which I'm assuming is causing me two things. Reduction in compression, and improper fuel feeding to the crankcase. I'm pretty sure the seal strip(spaghetti gasket) is shot. Could this be causing my problems of it not starting? I hope you'll say yes and not dash these hopes. What does everybody think?


IMO, Even if that is causing a problem, it would only make it run a little lean and unless it was a major leak wouldn't keep the engine from running (at least on one cylinder). Try a new set of non-champion plugs (and make sure they are correct according to your service manual) like I suggested before you go tearing things apart again. Believe me, I was going crazy wanting to tear things apart before I tried different plugs and that's all i turned out to be.

You probably have this info already but the service manual for your motor suggests the following plugs:

Champion: J6J (although I will never use Champion again)
AC: M44C
Autolite: A3X

The NGK equivalent is a 3510 B6S
 
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HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Just a note. I would by no means condemn Champion because you found a bad plug. that can happen with any brand. I buy the Champion J6C by the 100 box, and I am yet to find a faulty one.
 

geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2010
Messages
395
OK, you have a good spark and your plug leads and fuel lines are the right way round,you didn't say that you had verified fuel was actually getting to the carburetor but if it's leaking out of the crankcase join we must assume that it is,you previously said you had 90psi hand pulling on both cylinders,which is good. So,if these three things are correct theoretically the motor should work, I don't recall seeing mention of the idle settings,correction,yes i do,anyway low speed (upper)full in then 1 1/2 turns out, high speed (lower) full in then 1/2 turn out.Pay particular attention to the packing on the needles,I put at least two washers on as a rule.
Make sure you open the twist grip as far as you can when starting,the slow fast shift thingies on the grip don't mean much,just make sure you are in neutral.
If it still won't go the problem must be with one of the three above,if it was not for you saying fuel is leaking ay the join I would go for a stuck float needle or some thing equally silly but good luck and let us know how you get on
 

eolsen

Seaman
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
67
Mine doesn't have the twist grip. I have fast slow n start. I've been trying with it set on start. Should I try it in the fast position with gear in neutral?
 

eolsen

Seaman
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
67
Ok I've got the closest to starting so far. It's now backfiring when it tries to start. It's done it a few times. Started for about 2 seconds.tried a few times after that and it just backfires. Any thoughts?
 

Robert Ellis

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
82
Are you absolutely positive you set the points to exactly the right gap. A small deviation from correct will throw the timing off. I've found that when I set the points and then rotate the crank a few clockwise revolutions (put it in gear and turn the prop ... plugs out) - the point gap has changed so ... I reset them, rotate the crank and check the gap again - I repeat this until the gap stays at what I want it to be after a bunch of rotations. Color me paranoid lol.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Plug wires on the wrong plugs.......flywheel key sheared. Needle settings>
 

eolsen

Seaman
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
67
Ok so I worked on it for 2 hrs again this afternoon. I set the points according to Leroy's ramblings advice of having the point resting at the flywheel key location, I then set them at the location off the cam where it says TOP on the lobe of the cam. Neither helped. I have the needles set with new packing nuts. No help.... Last question then this motor might become a piece of art. Should I have the speed setting on start or fast when I set the points and does that even matter? Also I've tried ngk and champion plugs. No change. If my flywheel key was sheared the flywheel would just spin freely correct? (It's not doing that). ?????
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
No might not. You will have to look down the slot to see if it sheared. Did you properly torque it, tapers clean and dry? Does not matter where throttle is, some say to have it at WOT, but I don't see the point. Set points with the flywheel key lined up with the rubbing block, not the word TOP
 

singer202

Cadet
Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
24
If the flywheel key was sheared, the flywheel would not spin freely. The torque of the nut would keep it from doing that, but it would slip out of place a little at a time when you engage the starter. You're gonna wanna pull the flywheel and double check. Also, I just thought today; have you had the intake silencer off so you can see through the carb. for any obstructions or if the choke is stuck closed (or partially closed)? Also, to double check that there isnt anything stuck in the air silencer that would prevent good airflow to the engine. I also have to wonder if either of the jets in the carb. are gummed up. Perhaps try and spray some cleaner directly through the jets if you can.
 

singer202

Cadet
Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
24
Also, the "backfiring" that your talking about can mean that its too lean. If you can get it to start for a few seconds and then backfire and die, try turning your needle adjustments a little too the left and try again, then repeat a few times to see if it starts to fire up.
 
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