1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Hello again jb, you generally do not use gasket sealer on the head gasket. It just goes in "dry". The gaskets themselves usually say something like "no sealant required", stamped on to them. Can you post a pic of the gasket you have? If you're going to replace the bolts stainless is the way to go. Just make sure you get the right size and thread count.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Hello again jb, you generally do not use gasket sealer on the head gasket. It just goes in "dry". The gaskets themselves usually say something like "no sealant required", stamped on to them. Can you post a pic of the gasket you have? If you're going to replace the bolts stainless is the way to go. Just make sure you get the right size and thread count.

Here is a picture of both sides of my head gasket. First picture is dull gray side and second picture is also dull gray but you can see the metal matrix showing through. It does NOT say "No Sealant Required" anywhere on it. I got it off ebay for $12, so at that price maybe it is an old stock gasket and not the "shiny" new ones? Do I need to brush with OMC Gasket Sealer both sides or just install it dry?

 

[64osby]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

That looks like it will work as is with no sealant.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I sure would appreciate a second confirmation on dry vs using gasket sealant. I want to do it right the first time.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

It is hard to tell from the pics, but as you say, does not appear to have sealer on it.

Will it hurt to apply a thin layer of OMC Gasket Sealing Compound? Nope. Would I apply some if I was in doubt. Yup.

Use on of your wives magazines with the shiny pages....apply the sealer to both sides, put it in the magazine, close the magazine, then pull it out. That will spread the sealer in a perfect, thin coating. Then torque to spec in the correct pattern.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

It is hard to tell from the pics, but as you say, does not appear to have sealer on it.

Will it hurt to apply a thin layer of OMC Gasket Sealing Compound? Nope. Would I apply some if I was in doubt. Yup.

Use on of your wives magazines with the shiny pages....apply the sealer to both sides, put it in the magazine, close the magazine, then pull it out. That will spread the sealer in a perfect, thin coating. Then torque to spec in the correct pattern.

Cool idea...thank you. I hope to get some pics of the motor up this weekend. Maybe the thread will be a little more interesting instead of all newbie questions. Speaking of...I bought one of FR's timing fixtures, and I will probably need to link-sync it. I have read both my service manuals - oem and clymer - can't figure it out to save my you know what. Oh boy...

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Also dont forget to re torque the bolts after you have run it at temp. Same pattern as above.


Did you read this already?

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Got the head lapped flat, painted up pretty and ready to install. Head gasket and bolts brushed with OMC gasket sealer...AND THEN....misread the torque values to be foot lbs. Set my torque wrench to 60 for 50% of the 120 max and wrench would not click and I was nervous to continue tightening....albeit that feeling came after I bent the head cover and cracked one corner. $40 lesson learned...hitting ebay and looking for another head cover. If this engine can withstand my newbie wrench skills, it will be the toughest engine on the water. It's either that or I manage to screw it up enough to make a nice boat anchor out of it.

So...can I reuse the gasket or do i need to get another one? It has a thin film of OMC gasket sealer on it. I put it in a ziploc to keep it sealed and clean. Can I re-apply some gasket sealer and re-use it or should I just spring for another gasket due to the over-torquing on a couple of bolts...not all 10?

I am not stupid - just ignorant. Maybe that should be part of my signature. :facepalm:

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

the gasket is probably fine as long as the sealant hasn't dried out and become crusty.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

the gasket is probably fine as long as the sealant hasn't dried out and become crusty.

OK...thanks. I put it in ziploc and will check it to ensure still sticky before i install. New head on the way. $39.00 brand new old stock. Thanks ebay.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I got the new head in. It was NOS and came in primed red. Sanded 800 grit, cleaned, primed, painted with Effenaco color matched paint. Good stuff. Here is the link www.effenaco.com
Under the hood is all original paint except the head cover. I stripped and painted the outside of the engine with Duplicolor. It does not match the Evinrude Polychromatic Blue like the Effenaco, but it was $7 a can vs $20 plus shipping. In hindsight, wish I would have spent the extra $75. C'est la vie. Ignition system all updated. Carb kit installed. I still have the lower unit to complete and set timing. I hope she runs as purty as she looks. Here are a few pics of where I stand.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

she's a beauty jb. Can't wait to see her on the water...

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Tried to start the motor today. I have spark and compression, but having a fuel problem. Summary as follows:

CARB - I have soaked the carb in Chem Dip 2x now and ran a coated wire through the main fuel entry orifice and also the where that orifice mates up and the fuel leads into the needle. Carb has all new parts, including the circlip on the needle.

2 LINE FUEL TANK - Rebuilt tank and also new orings on connector. Tank button pumps up hard (but I can overcome it - unlike the bulb on my single line tank that I can't overcome once it pressures up). Confirmed fuel flow to glass filter bowl and then to the carb. When I unscrew cap off tank it bleeds off air - so I am assuming the tank is fine - even though I can keep pumping up the button after it gets firm. Is that normal?

It will start and run a few seconds if I spray fuel directly into the carb throat. I feel like my carb is very clean but I definitely have a fuel problem. What should I look for? Thanks all.

 

[nwcove]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

sounds like you still have carb issue, as you should be able to prime the carb with the button and the motor should run until the float bowl is empty....which should be more than a few seconds. ( even with the fuel line removed from the connector).

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Just as a note to start, never force that button. You will cause damage. 5 to 6 pumps is all that is necessary.

Now, if it never gets even a little firm, your needle is not seating, or float not rising. Did you replace the float? Did you test the needle/seat by blowing on carb inlet while carb is rightside up and upside down in your hand before installing?

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

sounds like you still have carb issue, as you should be able to prime the carb with the button and the motor should run until the float bowl is empty....which should be more than a few seconds. ( even with the fuel line removed from the connector).

I agree you are right. I am just wondering if there is something other than cleanliness that could be my issue. As noted, I have dipped it twice, blown carb clean through orifices, washed in soapy water, rinse and blown out with air compressor twice now. The carb wasn't gummed up the first time I opened it up - appeared previous owner ran fuel out of it before storing. I'm willing to clean it again, but trying to get smarter about it before I just repeat the same procedures and expect a different result.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Just as a note to start, never force that button. You will cause damage. 5 to 6 pumps is all that is necessary.

Now, if it never gets even a little firm, your needle is not seating, or float not rising. Did you replace the float? Did you test the needle/seat by blowing on carb inlet while carb is rightside up and upside down in your hand before installing?

Oh boy. I probably pumped it 10-15x each time after disconnecting the fuel line to spray fuel into the carb. After I pumped the button it made a squealing type sound as the button retracted up. I definitely forced it. Although it wasn't that hard to force it...just pushing on it with my thumb and some reasonable pressure.

The button definitely does get firm. I replaced the float. I did not test the needle - don't quite understand how to do what you stated as far as test procedures.

 

[nwcove]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

just curious, and you may not remember, but when you reinstalled the float bowl, did it sit on the bowl gasket easily, or did you have to tighten the screws before the bowl touched the gasket? i only mention that because ive had two occasions now, using sierra kits, where the boss gasket( the thick rubber gasket that goes on the hs jet) was to thin and would not seal, which is a problem. just a thought.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

just curious, and you may not remember, but when you reinstalled the float bowl, did it sit on the bowl gasket easily, or did you have to tighten the screws before the bowl touched the gasket? i only mention that because ive had two occasions now, using sierra kits, where the boss gasket( the thick rubber gasket that goes on the hs jet) was to thin and would not seal, which is a problem. just a thought.

The gasket was thick enough that I had to tighten the screws to get the bowl tight against the gaskets. I'd estimate the hs jet gasket created a 1/16-1/8 gap that I had to close down with the screws. I don't think that is my problem, but thank you for the heads up.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

When the carb is rightside up as it would normally sit, you should be able to easily blow into the fuel inlet. If not, the needle is stuck in the seat.

Then you flip the carb upside down, and you should NOT be able to blow into the inlet. Here you are mimicking the float rising and the needle seating. If you can still easily blow in, the needle is not seating properly.

I know the manual will tell you to have the float perfectly horizontal. I dont do it quite like that. I like the unhinged end slightly higher, just a touch higher, to ensure that the needle seats properly and does not flood.