1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

[58CorrySuburban]

Hey Guys,

I'm new to this forum catagory (and boats in general). I've just restored the above mentioned boat/motor and I'm finaly at the stage when I can begin thinking about my ideal prop.

The boat: A 1958 MFG Corry Suburban, don't know the weight, its about 13ft. The boat didn't have any identifing markers on it except a coast guard HIN so the specs are uncertain.

I've been running a 10 1/2 x 12 and it realy pushes the boat, but I have another prop which doesn't have a size/distance marked on it. It does say "Michigan PJ 40" on it.

Which prop would you choose for top speed? I'm guessing the Michigan just because it looks more agressive/deeper cutting.

Thanks in advance for any advice,
-Josh

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

Hi Josh, First to help you understand prop selection a little better; read the stickies at the top of the page and the helps at the top of the page at the prop store here.Old catalog indicate stock prop is 103/8 X 13 1/4.
On your relatively light boat the 12 may be slightly light. The best way to test for a new prop is with a tach and speedo perhaps a gps.
You may be able to borrow a shop tach or get a Tiny Tach, reasonable
easy to install and will fit any 2 cylinder 2 stroke without regard to stator poles. For best performance,economy and motor health we need the present max rpm and speed. Your "deeper cut" prop could deliver more speed if the motor can turn it up properly.It also may lower speed and cause the motor to lug.Not good.Until you find the present rpm on the 12" throttle back slightly
when lightly loaded.

 

[58CorrySuburban]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

Thanks Steelespike,

I always run the motor at 3/4 throtle and once in a while (for 10 second +/- bursts) at wot.

Does anyone know how to deduce rpms from a gps?

I do understand the importance of weight, load, drag, rpm and so on I just don't have the numbers.

This boat seems to be rare. I have yet to see another one anywhere on the net or otherwise and cant find any stats.

Thanks for any further information in advance,
-Josh

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

no way I know of the deduce rpms from a gps. a tiny tach will let you get the rpms. In general you want to run a prop that will allow you to achieve the right rpms for your motor. A 1958 35 hp operating range at wot is 4500 to 5000 rpms.

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

Go to the fiberglassics site they have many catalogs for fiberglass boats.
A tiny tach is about $40.

 

[58CorrySuburban]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

When I first got the boat I checked out fiberglassics and did find out what it was. They have an old add, but that section is under construction and they haven't gotten to "M" in the alphebet yet.

It had no ID, so the coast guard came out, to provide registration info they called it a "CRE", but like I sead I found the exact match at Fiberglassics. Thats why I got a 1958 35 hp Rude to put on it, because thats what it had on it in the add.

I'm having LU problems now anyway, so it will be a while.

Thanks again guys,
-Josh

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

What problems? Maybe we can help. Pretty simple gearcase.

 

[58CorrySuburban]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

Simple gear case, complex problem.

I'm trying to figure out what roll the races/flat bearing setup play that aren't already played by the pinion bearing and the needle bearing above the races/flat bearing.

The story is that (under previous ownership) the race/flat bearing setup over heated and began to shread the flat bearing. While it was being shreaded the shrapnel was spinning between the two races, digging a channel between them. The section of the housing that the races are next to are a bit knicked up.

The question is: Being that the flat bearing is a bit thinner in diameter than either race, and therefore would not come in contact with the housing wall what does it do to begin with? The races/flat bearing don't come in contact between the pinion bearing and needle bearing so it doesn't deal with vertical forces, and the pinion gear is set tightly between the pinion bearing and the needle bearing which would seem to deal with horizontal forces.

I'm just tyring to figure out what force the race/flat bearing deals with, in order to decide wether I reinstall with origional setup including races/bearings and risk another bearing failure, or, just remove the race/flat bearing because it's a backup and not crucial.

I have pics in a thread on the evinrude/johnson forum. They are under the "Flushing metal shavings from lower unit while assembled?" thread.

Thanks for any advise,
-Josh

 

[58CorrySuburban]

Re: 1958: 35 hp E-rude Motor/MFG Corry Suburban

Just wanted to provide a pic of the effected part of the housing. Notice the 2"ribs" with a valley worn between them (its all suposed to be flat).

Thanks again for any help,
-Josh