1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Status
Not open for further replies.

rodneymcgraw

Recruit
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
4
I purchased this motor from a fella who has had it sitting in his garage since his father-in-law "gave up fishing". He never used the motor, but knew that the motor ran good when it was used.

I have rebuilt many 4 cylinder engines and after I got over the shock of looking up the model number and confirming it was a 1959 I got even more excited to get this motor running again and enjoy many hours of fishing with my 2 teenage boys...here's what I've done.

I have cleaned the gas tank, replaced the cork seal and replaced the fuel line.

In the motor, I have replaced the fuel and air hose to the quick disconnect. I tried to start the motor and it would want to start every now and then but for the most part it just put a blister inbetween my index and middle finger on my right hand.

I bought the Clymer shop manual and I then rebuilt the carberator. I put it back together last night and now I have a blister between my index finger and middle finger on my left hand to match the one on the right and still have no running motor...help!!!

A few things I checked... without spark plugs in the motor I confirmed that I had spark. I put a (never used before Harbor Freight) compression tester and each cylinder is reading 60 lbs cold.

Thank you for reading this, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Did you try squirting some premix directly into the carb and see if it fires? Did you pump up the button on the tank and make sure there is fuel in the carb bowl? If it fires with the premix, then dies out, then the carb still isn't clean, or the tank is not developing/holding pressure. If it doesn't fire on the premix and the plugs are wet, then you have an ignition problem.
 

Sea18Horse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
626
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

I agree with Lindy. How did you go about checking spark? You need to get yourself a $6.00 spark checker at autozone or some other auto parts store or devise some other way to make sure the spark will jump at least a 1/4" gap. Just sticking a spark plug in the end of the wire and grounding it on the block is not sufficient. A weak ignition system will jump a .030" gap in open air without any problems. But it will not fire in the cylinder under compression. There is a good chance your ignition coils are shot. The original ones all fail sooner or later. if you find that's the case you should plan to do the points, condensers and spark plug wires while you're in there. They're cheap. Good luck!

BTW you should plan to replace your water pump also. I always like to replace the housing and all on any new-to-me motors. That way I know where I stand. After that every two years or so one can replace just the impeller.

And welcome to iboats! :)

Cheers.............................Todd
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

I agree with Lindy. How did you go about checking spark? You need to get yourself a $6.00 spark checker at autozone or some other auto parts store or devise some other way to make sure the spark will jump at least a 1/4" gap. Just sticking a spark plug in the end of the wire and grounding it on the block is not sufficient. A weak ignition system will jump a .030" gap in open air without any problems. But it will not fire in the cylinder under compression. There is a good chance your ignition coils are shot. The original ones all fail sooner or later. if you find that's the case you should plan to do the points, condensers and spark plug wires while you're in there. They're cheap. Good luck!

BTW you should plan to replace your water pump also. I always like to replace the housing and all on any new-to-me motors. That way I know where I stand. After that every two years or so one can replace just the impeller.

And welcome to iboats! :)

Cheers.............................Todd

You should never wear a blister on your hands while starting an Evinrude!!!! If it isn't running after four or five pulls, something is wrong. Stop pulling and start checking.

In your case, chances are about 90% the coils are shot. They are notorious for that. Especially if they have been in there since 1959-60 something. "Has spark" means nothing, if the coils are old and cracked, it won't run right. Stop messing with the carburetor and pull the flywheel.
 

Attachments

  • Cracked coils2.jpg
    Cracked coils2.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 2

rodneymcgraw

Recruit
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
4
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Wow! Thank you! I'll be heading down the coil / points / condenser road. I can see that the coating on the coils have cracked and are actually missing some coating in spots...

Lindy, yes I pumped up the tank and fuel is delivering fine through the filter into the bowl (I checked this while the carb was still pulled apart). When checking pressure a few minutes later (after the carb was installed), the button still had the same resistance to pumping as before.
I did try the premix directly in the cylinder and no luck...

Seahorse18, thank you for the wisdom. Yes, just as you described I put the plug wire on a spark plug (.020 gap) and got spark. Will a weak spark fire sometimes under pressure? Last night, I got it to run for about 1 1/2 seconds, just enough to justify the blisters. (These burn real hot when you get gumout on them!!!)

F_R, I absoultely love your reality and passion...I absolutly love hearing something run that hasn't for a while (Especially when it's American Made!!!) I will consider it an honor to bring something back to life that is older than me (I'm 42) and built by my dad's generation. I am in the printing industry and we use some very high tech presses. We recently purchased a 10 color press (PCMC / flexographic press) made in Green Bay, WI. Currently, this press runs circles around the Itialian presses on either side of it and the quality is tip top...needless to say, we will not be buying any more presses that involve a boat to get to Kansas City!
A bit intimidated about getting the flywheel off (I saw a replacement on ebay for $55, I don't want to have to buy one because I broke mine...) I tried for a bit a couple nights ago and was worried I was going to rip the threads out of the flywheel as I was using a Y shaped gear puller screwed into the 3 taped holes for the cover and pressing against the crankshaft. I was going to buy a gear puller with the arms and pull from the outside, is this the way to do it? Basically, this is pressed on the crankshaft, right?


Nobody seems concerned about the 60lbs compression cold?
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Before you booger it up with the claw puller.......:)

You're doing it right with the harmonic balancer puller. Just make sure you're using grade 8 1/4-20 bolts into the flywheel, be certain that the puller is square to the flywheel, and that the puller bolt is straight up. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of force to get them to pop off. Put the nut on the crankshaft threads a little ways so that when it does pop off, it doesn't go flying off and pop you in the face.

Here's a thread that will help you change your coils, which are easy to do. This thread is at the top of this forum where it says "top secret files". There's several other threads there that are very helpful like the carb. adjusting thread. They're not really top secret!:D
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072
Good luck,
JBJ
 

Sea18Horse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
626
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

The only thing I might add is that when you go to rap on the end of the puller bolt you should lift up on the flywheel first. If you lift on the flywheel you will feel a small amount of end play in the crankshaft. The flywheel should be lifted up against the upper end of this play before rapping on it. Otherwise you would be pounding directly on the thrust bearing.

The flywheel isn't a pressed fit so much, it's a taper fit, That's why they pop off so suddenly and with such force.

85psi would be better of course. But it's more important that they be even between the two. An error of 25psi should not be unexpected in an inexpensive compression tester. That's one of the reasons why no compression specs were ever published. Plus it may come up some after it has been run a bit.

Cheers......................Todd
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

"Wow! Thank you! I'll be heading down the coil / points / condenser road. I can see that the coating on the coils have cracked and are actually missing some coating in spots..."

How do you know this is you have not removed the flywheel yet? I don't believe on that model that you can see the coils from underneath?

Yes, keep cranking on the Y puller. It's takes a lot and will scare the be-geezus out of you when it finally pops. Keep tightening. But do use the hardened bolts.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

"Wow! Thank you! I'll be heading down the coil / points / condenser road. I can see that the coating on the coils have cracked and are actually missing some coating in spots..."

How do you know this is you have not removed the flywheel yet? I don't believe on that model that you can see the coils from underneath?

Yes, keep cranking on the Y puller. It's takes a lot and will scare the be-geezus out of you when it finally pops. Keep tightening. But do use the hardened bolts.

'59 still had the inspection hole in the flywheel.
 

rodneymcgraw

Recruit
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
4
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Ok, thanks I'll continue using the harmonic balance puller.

Yes, I can see the general condition of the coils through the inspection hole in the flywheel. I assume this inspection hole can be used to verify gap in the points too as they are open when the hole is over them...

Hopefully, I will come up with the parts over the weekend and reply with status....

thank you so much for the much needed input!
 

Sea18Horse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
626
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Rodney wrote;
"I assume this inspection hole can be used to verify gap in the points too as they are open when the hole is over them..."

Yes, in fact I prefer to set mine this way. Especially in this style...Well at least in my 10 horse ("56 model) as it has a ceramic upper crankshaft seal. That means that the points cam is spring loaded and wants to pop up above the points when the flywheel is not on. What I do is rotate the crankshaft around so that the high spot in the cam is midway between the two points and adjust the points in such a way that neither rubbing block touches the cam. That way the flywheel will go on and the cam can be pushed down without any damage to the points. Sorry, this is a bit wordy for a simple and fairly obvious procedure. But I have heard problems with this mentioned on here in the past. :)

BTW don't forget the spark plug wires. You need 7mm metal core wire (sometimes refered to as solid core or copper core.) Sometimes a little challenging to find these days. Regular automotive spark plug wire will not work. Try your local OB shops, marinas or small engine/lawn mower shops. Or laingsoutboards.com has them, they come with new boots, clips and all, about $4.00 each. I don't know if iboats sells them or not, they may.

Also don't forget about flywheel nut torque when you get it all back together. 45 lbs/ft with a torque wrench. Very important!

Cheers....................Todd
 

rodneymcgraw

Recruit
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
4
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

Thank you so much for your input, the procedure for doing this was fantastic! Yes, I used the harmonic puller and it made me grit my teeth a bit, but it did come off with a bang (thanks for the trick of leaving the nut on!).

The coils were an embarrasment to the coil community (pic attached)....

I replaced the coils, condenser, points. Gaped the points to the best I could get to .020 with the round gap tool used for spark plugs. Put the flywheel on, buttoned it up and it started on the 3rd pull! I jacked with the low speed fine adjust and ran it for a few minutes. Everything appeared to be working fine, spitting water out of the exhaust hole (like I've seen on multiple sportwin's on Youtube) idling fine and such. I shut her down and went to a biker meeting at the church. I came home and showed momma that the time I've been spending in the garage (and the money I've spent that were'nt for shoes) was all worth it...started on the first pull!

Score: Evinrude-2 Rodney-1

Sunday afternoon I devised a better tank to put this in so I can put some stress on the forward and reverse function without making a big mess. I pulled and pulled and pulled and got nothing...

Score: Evinrude-3 Rodney-1

The only thing I changed was the clamp on the fuel tank side. When I had it running yesterday, I had to continue to keep pumping gas up to the carb and noticed that there was a pinhole leak where the rubber met the barb on the tank outlet. I got a better clamp to try to plug this hole in hopes that it would build up enough pressure in the tank to pump the fuel on its own.

I am open to suggestions...What I will do tonight is get a flat feeler gauge and verify that the points are at .020 with the flywheel on. Outside of that, I'm thinking that I lost a good connection of the spark plug wire to the coil. I could not figure out how to loosen the wires up so I could first feed the wire up and make a good connection to the coil then set the coil back.
 

Attachments

  • Coil condition.jpg
    Coil condition.jpg
    36.4 KB · Views: 1

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 1959 10HP Evinrude Golden Jubilee model 10018

You should definately change the coil wires whilst you're at it, do the whole lot. The stator plate comes off to access the plug wires underneath.
Remove coils and 2 brass screws net to the crankshaft and the whole lot will lift right off, don't get the 2 plug wires mixed around.

The plug wires screw into the coil, the connector spike inside the coil is kinda threaded like a wood screw and you just twist the new plug wires onto it until it bottoms out.

I did my 1959 johnson 10 hp this summer, same engine, coils looked the same as yours.:eek:

I now get a nice blue 1/2inch spark with barely a pull.:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top