1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

scuba_redneck

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 2, 2012
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118
Hey guys, I am wondering if this hole on the bottom of the LU is supposed to be here as a drain hole or should it be plugged?

196010hpevinrudeleak2.jpg


196010hpevinrudeleak.jpg
 

kbait

Commander
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Nov 13, 2007
Messages
2,471
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

It is indeed a drain hole, and should not be plugged.
 

oldcatamount

Lieutenant Commander
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Apr 4, 2010
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1,740
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

It's not supposed to be there but it's not doing any harm either. Curious as to what would have caused it though. Nothing but exhaust chamber above it.
 

scuba_redneck

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Feb 2, 2012
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Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Awesome. The foot is leaking and I was hoping for an easy fix. As soon as I finish the 18 I will begin working on this motor. I would like to have two well running motors by the time I finish.
 

scuba_redneck

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Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Hey guys. I was able to take this motor out this past weekend in hopes of the water that was found in the LU when we first checked the oil level to be just a sign of neglect and not an actual massive leak. The good news: after 15 minutes of running and a quick trip back to the shop, the LU oil is the most beautiful honey color you have ever seen. So no leak there so far. But there is another slight problem. This engine seems to not want to run at WOT at all however will idle all day long. It is snappy on takeoff up to about midrange on the throttle handle but does not seem to want to respond to any change in the throttle position past that point.. RPMs are guesstimated at 2000ish at WOT. This number comes from many years of listening to several boat engines run when watching a tach. Compression numbers are 70 psi for the top cylinder and 72 for the bottom cylinder. From my research these numbers seem to be about where this engine is supposed to be. When I adjusted the fast speed adjustment needle out the rpms picked up slightly. As I was going down the river I kept adjusting the needle out to find the best WOT mix and from my guess I was only able to bring the engine up to 2200-2500 RPMs. Not a huge jump but a noticeable one. The fuel bulb/primer remained firm throughout the entire run and the choke was not necessary once it cranked the first time. I have not inspected the coils nor the spark strength yet and have done nothing to the carbs except adjust the high speed needle to its optimal position. Also I inspected the spark plugs afterwards and the ceramic was a light brown to dark gray. Any ideas guys?
 

bbstacker1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 7, 2010
Messages
163
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Sounds to me like a good time to check the coils, if both look good then do a spark check. I'm guessing you're only running on one cylinder.
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
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Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Sounds like a classic "running on one cylinder" situation. I concur with the above to go through the ignition, starting with the coils....
 

64osby

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Jul 28, 2009
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Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

It's not supposed to be there but it's not doing any harm either. Curious as to what would have caused it though. Nothing but exhaust chamber above it.

I have a QD21 lower unit that has the exact same hole, sure looks factory to me.
 

scuba_redneck

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Feb 2, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

I was able to pull the flywheel off last night and this is what I saw.

196010hpevinrudetopviewcoil.jpg


196010hpevinrudecoil2.jpg


196010hpevinrudecoil1.jpg


Is it just me or do those coils look a tad rough? I priced them last night and they are roughly $18 per coil plus whatever shipping is. Also while I had the flywheel off I noticed that the points had a "M" stamped on them like the mallory logo. From that little nugget of info, I believe that the points have been replaced recently but cannot confirm that. The gaps on the points were very tight, as in 0.010 and 0.012 tight. The markings on the flywheel said that the points should be set at 0.020 inch gap. I believe that this would explain the loss of power towards the end of the trial run that I experienced due to the points getting a little bit burnt because of the poor gap.
 

Chinewalker

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8,902
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

The M is actually the OMC stamp, an M with an O around it. The points and condensers do look like they've been replaced at some point as the original condensers had a fiber/cardboard cap, not rubber...

Yes, your coils need replacement - they look like originals. I would imagine that once you get them off the plate you'll see at least one of them has a black hole in the bottom where it has been arcing to the plate.
 

kbait

Commander
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
2,471
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Replace your coils. Old school coils always cracked like that due to the coating used. Remove your pointsets and file the faces shiny new. If they're pitted too badly, replace. Set to .020" widest gap on cam and you've got good spark for many years. Oh, if you're re-using the plug wires, cut 1/2" off each before screwing 'em into your new coils for a positive connection. Here's some good info for ya: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=531940

Good luck!
 

scuba_redneck

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Feb 2, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Thanks guys. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering if yall think this little 10 hp motor would plane this boat out if it was running right? Its a 1960ish 14 foot starcraft. I have a 1973 18 hp evinrude that I am also working on but has come to a standstill until the clutch dog and forward gear gets out of the machine shop. When I took this motor out last weekend the motor seemed like it wanted to open up and run but just didn't. What do you guys think?

image_2.jpg
 

AlTn

Commander
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Mar 9, 2010
Messages
2,813
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

go ahead and pull the armature plate off< 4 screws closest to the crankend > unclip the shorting switch wires first and take the spring off the sparkplug wires <guessing you have one , it holds the wires in position near the vertical throttle shaft > as they'll have to come up and out as well. I'd suggest you go ahead and replace the plug wires and terminal ends < boots and wire terminal> at this time. Necessary?..hard to say, but you've gotten it to this point. The wire from the dealer is ~$2/ft and the terminal ends about $4/ea. Luck holds, you may not have to revisit this area for a decade or more.
How's that crankshaft seal look? Any oil leaking by so that it could get on the points? I checked with a local dealer this a.m. and the labor charge was ~$15 to replace it with the f/w and armature plate already out of the way. I'd guess the seal is $5 or less.
I give this advice as probably many have who have dealt with these univeral mag. setups. Do it now while you've got it down, you won't regret it.
 

scuba_redneck

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 2, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

I will be replacing the entire ignition system when I start on it (Points, coils, condensers, wires, etc. The parts are too cheap not to. I have not looked at the crankshaft seal yet. I haven't noticed any excess oil in there yet, but I will take a look. I noticed when I was poking around on the armature plate that it had a slight amount of play in it. How tight is it supposed to be secured?

Anyone have any spark plug recommendations for this motor? It currently has Champion J19LM plugs in it.
 

Steve079

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
39
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

great thread, I'm working on a '65 9.5 Evinrude. Just finished the lower unit, and will start on the ignition system next. good advice!
 

scuba_redneck

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Feb 2, 2012
Messages
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Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Steve079, a few bits of advice that I have found out on these boards, Photobucket .img links are VERY reliable for image hosting when you are starting on a project and need a bit of advice from these guys. The regulars on this board are absolutely amazing when it comes to their knowledge of these older outboards. If you ever have any kind of problem, they have always been quick to answer any question that has ever come up. Keep us updated on your project!
 

oldybutagoody

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Dec 30, 2011
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Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

Anyone have any spark plug recommendations for this motor? It currently has Champion J19LM plugs in it.

Champion J4C or J6C. J4C is a colder plug and better if you are running at mostly higher RPMs. J6C is hotter and gives a better idle if you troll a lot. The Champion book says J8C but it's wrong. J8C is too hot a plug and can burn a piston. Most people seem to recommend the J6C plugs. Also, every thing I've found says only use Champions.
 

kbait

Commander
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
2,471
Re: 1960 10 hp Sportwin Evinrude

I have a pile of J8C's from customer motors. I've never seen 'em recommended for the old J/E's, but they're in a lot of 'em. I replace 'em w/J6C's.
 
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