1960 Fastwin Gearcase Reseal

[JohnnyGuy]

Last year I was able to get myself a 1960 Evinrude Fastwin 15033. For some reason I really like the looks of these 1960s. Very representative of that era of time I feel.
Anyways, I've been working on outboards for the past few years but this is the first one I've gotten one that hasn't held pressure in the gearcase.
I ordered a seal kit and am going to replace all of the seals.
Like every job I have done with these old outboards the first time I do something it's very intimidating, but following doing it I've found it's pretty straightforward.
Since this will be my first seal job I am a little intimidated. The intimidation is mostly related to the removal of the oil seals. I want to make sure that I don't damage and of the housings etc...

I have no special tools for this and am wondering about the best way to start.
From what I have read it looks like the best way to remove the shift rod busing is to tap it with a 1/4-20 tap and then use a threaded rod with nuts to pull it out?
What about the driveshaft and prop seal?
Is it worth investing in some tools or borrowing something from the local parts store loan-a-tool program?
Thanks in advance.
JG

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Last year I was able to get myself a 1960 Evinrude Fastwin 15033. For some reason I really like the looks of these 1960s. Very representative of that era of time I feel.
Anyways, I've been working on outboards for the past few years but this is the first one I've gotten one that hasn't held pressure in the gearcase.
I ordered a seal kit and am going to replace all of the seals.
Like every job I have done with these old outboards the first time I do something it's very intimidating, but following doing it I've found it's pretty straightforward.
Since this will be my first seal job I am a little intimidated. The intimidation is mostly related to the removal of the oil seals. I want to make sure that I don't damage and of the housings etc...

I have no special tools for this and am wondering about the best way to start.
From what I have read it looks like the best way to remove the shift rod busing is to tap it with a 1/4-20 tap and then use a threaded rod with nuts to pull it out?
What about the driveshaft and prop seal?
Is it worth investing in some tools or borrowing something from the local parts store loan-a-tool program?
Thanks in advance.
JG

I have only done 3 of these type of gearcase seals and I never needed any special tools. The shift rod bushing I tapped it and threaded in a bolt and then drove it out from the bottom.

 

[racerone]

A 5/16-NC tap will do it.----But actually the o-ring can be replaced without pulling the bushing.----Or yes the special factory tool ( have 4 brand new ones here ) can be used.-----Using a dremel cutting tool will weaken the shaft seals so they nearly fall out.

 

[oldboat1]

To determine which seal is leaking, pressurize the empty gearcase with five or six lbs., and spray some soapy water around the seals. Look for bubbles to indicate a leak. This needs to be done before doing a seal job to determine what is needed, and when finished to test the work. The fill and drain seals should be included.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

To determine which seal is leaking, pressurize the empty gearcase with five or six lbs., and spray some soapy water around the seals. Look for bubbles to indicate a leak. This needs to be done before doing a seal job to determine what is needed, and when finished to test the work. The fill and drain seals should be included.

I could not get it to hold ANY pressure and I was using a new seal on the vent plug along with a seal on the LU filling adapter used to connect my air pump setup to the LU.
When I drained the LU there was some water that came out first before the oil (oil was pink).

 

[oldboat1]

Doesn't follow, though, that it's leaking through all seals. Just keep gently pumping and use the spray bottle and soap mix.

 

[racerone]

A 60 year old motor likely needs a complete seal kit.----Much cheaper than gears and shafts.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

A 60 year old motor likely needs a complete seal kit.----Much cheaper than gears and shafts.

Yeah I bought the Sierra Seal kit for it (18-2684) I was just going to do all of the seals.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Doesn't follow, though, that it's leaking through all seals. Just keep gently pumping and use the spray bottle and soap mix.

I was just saying that it wouldn't hold any pressure... to be honest I wasn't too concerned about pinpointing which one was leaking as I purchased a complete Sierra Seal Kit for it and was planning on just replacing all of them.

 

[oldboat1]

Your motor -- whatever you are comfortable with. But you need to recheck for leaks after repairs are completed -- test your work.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Your motor -- whatever you are comfortable with. But you need to recheck for leaks after repairs are completed -- test your work.

Is there a benefit to checking where it's leaking exactly prior to disassembly if I am going to replace all seals? Curious if I may be overlooking something?

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Also if someone is able to confirm what products should be used and where with regards to sealers?
I have the 3M for the spaghetti gasket.
Should there be anything be applied to O-Rings or seals?

 

[oldboat1]

might find this generally helpful:

 

[lindy46]

Check for cracks in the gearcase.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

I tested it under pressure while under water and the shift rod seal was the culprit.
Hoping to get to doing the reseal the work soon.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Well I have been able to remove all of the seals now, the driveshaft seal was a PITA.
Question, now that I am prepping for installation of the seals, I have the Sierra kit 18-2684. It came with 4 seals (2 pairs of different sizes). It appears 2 driveshaft seals and 2 prop shaft seals. 2 of the seals appear to be the exact same as the prop shaft seal I removed, but the two smaller seals although they appear to be the correct size as far as O.D. (to fit the gearcase) and I.D. (to fit the driveshaft), they're not as deep (thick) as the ones I had removed. Were these changed at some point?
Any input is appreciated before I go too far and install the incorrect seals.
Cheers,
JG

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Well I have been able to remove all of the seals now, the driveshaft seal was a PITA.
Question, now that I am prepping for installation of the seals, I have the Sierra kit 18-2684. It came with 4 seals (2 pairs of different sizes). It appears 2 driveshaft seals and 2 prop shaft seals. 2 of the seals appear to be the exact same as the prop shaft seal I removed, but the two smaller seals although they appear to be the correct size as far as O.D. (to fit the gearcase) and I.D. (to fit the driveshaft), they're not as deep (thick) as the ones I had removed. Were these changed at some point?
Any input is appreciated before I go too far and install the incorrect seals.
Cheers,
JG

I found my answer.

"Please note the 18-2032 is about 3/16 inch thick, it is thinner than the earlier version of seal but is still intended to replace earlier versions as shown in the cross reference search."

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Hey all, I did this work a WHILE ago just been busy with life for a few months. Anyways I resealed the gearcase and then pressure tested to check my work. I didn't get the prop shaft sealed correctly, so removed it and put the extra prop shaft seal that was in the kit in place with some additional 3M around the perimeter of it and that seemed to do the trick for that (though you can see one small bubble at the edge of the seal in the video). But as you can see in the video, it appears as though the gearcase is cracked.
Is there any recommendations for fixing this? Or am I looking for a replacement gearcase?

Thoughts?

 

[Crosbyman]

looks small .... can you grind the crack (hole) maybe 1/16th - 3/2 inch and refill will JB weld for starters

 

[JohnnyGuy]

looks small .... can you grind the crack (hole) maybe 1/16th - 3/2 inch and refill will JB weld for starters

It's definitely small. Not even visible with the naked eye. I'm sure I could do something like that.
Take Dremel to it in that area, grind it out fill with JB and try and smooth it out from there I suppose.