1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

CLAMJACK61

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
8
This is about a 1964 or 1965 model Johnson. It has the fixed HIGH SPEED (non-adjustable) needle in the carburetor. The motor will not stay running for long at idle, nor will it idle as low as it should. At mid to high speed the cylinder head gets way too hot, over 163* (I used a 163* Thermomelt stick & it melted).

It also begins to make a sound from the crankcase/cylinder area that sounds very much like pre-ignition. I installed; Brand new ignition coils, new spark plug wires, new points (Set EXACTLY .20) condensers & spark plugs. I re-built the carbeurator, soaked it in cleaner & blew al the passages out with compressed air, used a new kit with new float.

I pulled the cylinder head, blew air through all the water passages, even though they were clean (fresh water run motor) I removed the powerhead & made sure all the passages were unobstructed, water tube clear, etc. I surfaced the head & installed with a new gasket. I also cleaned all the carbon build up from piston domes & cylinder head (there wasn't very much).

I installed a brand new water pump impeller, the housing was in very good shape, so I re-used it. I used 89 octane fuel with Quicksilver two stroke oil at 50:1 (actually, more like 40:1, since I added a little extra due to age of motor). I thought it may be the poor quality fuel ( 10% ethanol) because it doesn't even smell like gasoline, more like stale kerosene & alcohol, but, I did pump it fresh. I bought octane boost & added it in hopes it would boost the fuel performance more similar to what it was in the 1960's. No change.

I then tried another carburetor that I simply cleaned with a spray can (carb was VERY clean already) with no change. So, I puled ANOTHER 3 H.P Johnson from the stock pile, oh, BTW, BOTH of these motors have 90 PSI on BOTH cylinders, which is good? for this age motor. Being even on both cylinders is important, and they are. I swapped out carburetors, but, installed different (but brand new) ignition coils and breaker point assemblies on this motor.

This one was a bit older, about a 1957-58 model. I tested the plug wires with my ohm meter, both were fine, so I left them on. I exchanged the water pump impeller & put her in the test tank. (BTW, I have a professional size test tank, for motors up to 50-60 H.P., so, there is no issue with running the motor & not getting enough water to the pump).

This motor ran just as badly, made the same pr-ignition noise, which starts a couple minutes after the motor is running. The cylinder head got just as hot, and, like the first motor, the side of the block where the cylinders are doesn't get hot at all, but, after running for 20 to thirty minutes it begins to get very hot on the sides as well. I tore the first motor down (1964 model) almost all the way (I didn't want to pull the crankcase in half & remove the pistons until I could have all the new parts to re-assemble it) and couldn't see anything that would cause any issue like this.

The crankshaft has no excessive movement up, down or sideways. The pistons fit well, no apparent slop best I can tell without pulling them completely out. I do see that the upper piston has minor damage to the skirt, BEHIND the rings, just one spot, where it is scored. Probably from getting hot. The cylinder wall was not damaged, at least where it's visible. The cylinders are in excellent condition. I intend to order two new pistons, rings & everything else and rebuild it.

BEFORE I do that, I need to determine WHY I am having this problem. I have the older 3 H.P. to use as my "guinea pig" to figure this out. My next plan of action is to find a marina that sells ethanol-free fuel & buy a few gallons and try that.

So, anybody have any idea as to what the problem may be? It seems to me that it's running WAY too lean, but after two different carburetors, the only thing I can figure is I am getting fuel that has WAY more ethanol than 10% in it from the local stations. Remember, this fuel doesn't even have a gasoline smell to it, like I said above, it smells more like stale kerosene & alcohol.

I forgot to mention, that it seems that when I advance the throttle lever to full WOT, it sounds like it's only running about 3/4 and not full....I am really stuck on this one.:confused::confused:
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

Did you clean the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank?
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

That engine has all brass bushing's, no needle bearing's. If you have been using 50-1 fuel-oil mix, the noise you here is probably a worn connecting rod. The rod is all one piece with the bushing's cast in. They are not replaceable. That could also be why the engine is running hot. A bad bushing can cause alot of friction.
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

Also - those engines run hot at the head and the exhaust plate by design - they're not cooled! The head has very small passages which cool the edges, but it is not uncommon for the center where the plug is to get sizzling hot. The exhaust cover gets zero cooling water and is usually discolored because of heat. It's normal for these motors.

That said - is the screen between the airhorn and carburetor in place? There is a screen/plate that MUST be there in order for the motor to run properly. It was discovered that these little twins wouldn't draw enough fuel unless they were run in a partial choke condition. This was dealt with by putting a coarse screen over the carb face to act as a partial choke.

Also, your motor is much happier running at a richer oil mix. It is a plain bearing motor and needs the extra oil - even though the "official" OMC line is that all their motors post 1964 can be run at 50:1. The little 3 and 4hp models like the extra oil...
 

CLAMJACK61

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

Did you clean the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank?


Now that you mention it...NO! The tank was super clean inside, but, I will check that anyway...good thought! I'll post back with results this weekend.
 

CLAMJACK61

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

That engine has all brass bushing's, no needle bearing's. If you have been using 50-1 fuel-oil mix, the noise you here is probably a worn connecting rod. The rod is all one piece with the bushing's cast in. They are not replaceable. That could also be why the engine is running hot. A bad bushing can cause alot of friction.


Right, I remember that about these old motors. You may be correct (I hope not!) but, one would think that one of the two motors would be better than the other...but BOTH make the EXACT same noise...hmmmm. Well, I will be running a 25: mix next, based on the post below yours, and I'll pray for the noise to BEGONE!
 

CLAMJACK61

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2010
Messages
8
Re: 1964 3 h.p. won't idle/runs hot

Also - those engines run hot at the head and the exhaust plate by design - they're not cooled! The head has very small passages which cool the edges, but it is not uncommon for the center where the plug is to get sizzling hot. The exhaust cover gets zero cooling water and is usually discolored because of heat. It's normal for these motors.

That said - is the screen between the airhorn and carburetor in place? There is a screen/plate that MUST be there in order for the motor to run properly. It was discovered that these little twins wouldn't draw enough fuel unless they were run in a partial choke condition. This was dealt with by putting a coarse screen over the carb face to act as a partial choke.

Also, your motor is much happier running at a richer oil mix. It is a plain bearing motor and needs the extra oil - even though the "official" OMC line is that all their motors post 1964 can be run at 50:1. The little 3 and 4hp models like the extra oil...


O.K., then that means the motor is NOT running hot, since that is normal. that is exactly where it was getting hot (the second motor didn't get hot on the sides like the first one). That screen you mention, it WAS in place for a while. When I pulled the air silencer to exchange carbs, it took a dive into my test tank...OOPS!:D

With the second carb, it did run substantially better HALF choked...so, I guess I'll be fishing in da dirty wata this weekend! I will also be adding the correct amount of oil to bring it to 25:1

Thank you, all of you! You have given me a lot of great information to go on, I'll bet with this new info that I'll have one of these motors running great very soon! I'll post back with the final results when I get there...THANKS!!
 
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