1967 80 HP Johnson-gas overflowing in carburetor vent

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,988
Slower and slower, could be an overheating problem. Was it pumping water? Start with the usual, a compression test, spark to all cylinders, fuel to the carb. You put on a different carb? Was that carb from an 80hp, or some other HP?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
Yes, it was off the same year 80 hp. I rebuilt that one with a new gasket/ float kit. ( remember the old one was squirting gas out of a vent hole). I'll check the compression/ spark.
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
Just in case, I should check to see if it's pumping water (if it will start) what kind of a hose hookup do I need to run it -I don think the "ear muff" type will work. It's a 1967 80 hp Johnson.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,988
A hose attachment for that engine is not very common, besides using a Hose tells you nothing about how a pump is functioning. Put the motor in a barrel, test tank, or back the boat into the water at a launch till the water is about six inches higher than the top of the gear housing. That deep and the the pump will be primed and then you can determine if it is pumping water.

Your engine came with an Idiot Light to announce the engine(at least one cylinder head anyway) is Overheating
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
I'm pretty sure the Idiot Light didn't come on. I checked the compression: Not great, but it is a 1967 motor. Three cylinders were around 95, The fourth was only about 86.

mainly I found that I don't have any spark! Could it be the coil? The wire to the distributor cap was pretty corroded at the coil end. I tested the voltage coming into the coil- About 7.5- 8 volts. I left the key on while testing and the coil felt very warm after an hour or so.
I have an old 1966 Evinrude 80 hp. I might try that coil and distributor set -coil looks different as far as where the terminals are but I think it should fit.

Is there a way to test the coil?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
So the voltage would be less than 12 volt coming into the coil?
I took the old coil off and it had several cracks in it- surprised it worked at all last year.
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
I tried the coil/distributor set up from my 1966 Evinrude parts motor. ( the cap had the same number ) I still have no spark! Any ideas?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
There seems to be power to the coil (About 7.5 volts), the points spark a little, but there is no spark to any of the plugs.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
If the carb has been working properly and only having fuel spills, it's a related issue between the needle and the seat valve, with time fuel deposits will start building up on internal seat and needle won't close tight consequently producing fuel spills or while priming bulb firm. If carb is clean and only want to solve the fuel spill check this simple cleaning procedure.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...-carb-leaks-at-throat-no-float-seat-available

Just for the record, report if solved the spill issue.

Happy Boating
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
I picked up coil tester, (one end goes into the coil, and the other end clips on a spark plug)
the neon does flash, but maybe not enough to fire the plugs?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
I got it finally got it running! I picked up a car coil ( Napa IC12) and resistor(Napa FA76) - they are for a 1960's Ford many other cars and trucks. The coil has "for use with external resistor" printed on it. Not sure if this is ideal, but it seems to work.
Do you see any problems using it? (I also switched the Rotor with the one on my parts motor, and cleaned the points, started right up.)

one thing I noticed was that when I first primed the gas bulb, it didn't seem to fill up the glass sediment bulb-once it started, the glass filled up and I ran it for probably 1/2 hour. Remember that last fall the motor slowed down and went slower and slower until it just stopped.- the new coil seems to have fixed that, but maybe there is a fuel problem too?

Now I probably should start a new thread, but I was asked if maybe it over heated last fall, and that's why it stalled out.

I picked up an Ames Infrared Laser Thermometer, and after idling in a barrel for maybe a half hour, the # 1 and #3 cylinders read about 122 degrees F, but the #2 and #4 side ran about 155 degrees. Is that way too hot?

I have a video showing the water coming out of the motor exhaust- it doesn't seem like a lot, but it seems like it's about normal for this motor. what do you guys think (again it's 1967 80 HP Johnson)

I'll try to figure out how to post the video.......said it's too big- do I need to put it on utube?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
OK I think the video should come up on youtube now what do you think about the water pump?
 

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
here is how I used the thermometer....
 

Attachments

  • photo315134.jpg
    photo315134.jpg
    687.5 KB · Views: 0
  • photo315135.jpg
    photo315135.jpg
    343.9 KB · Views: 0

FTD26

Cadet
Joined
Aug 20, 2018
Messages
27
Really? It won't fit if the barrel is upright, so I thought this would work, the water is over the cavitation plate...
 
Top