1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

[willieandralphsdad]

I thought I'd start a fresh thread for this project so I could add a few photos. 1969 Chrysler 55hp outboard #5555.

So I've been through everything once. New sparkys. Pulled apart the fuel pump to look at valves. The are in tight and look fine. Looked at the diaphragm, which looks okay I guess. Not perfect but not terrible. Pulled apart the carb, felt like I cleaned a lot out, everything I could get my hands on, and soaked with carb cleaner then reinstalled and reset the idle screw at the top to 1 full turn counterclockwise from seated. Looked and cleaned the drip hoses and cut out what looks like some kind of ferrule in one of them. Replaced ferrule in a new hose and reinstalled. Used same gaskets because it was Sunday and the stores are closed (and 30+ miles away) just to see if I could get it to fire up, and it does. Choke solenoid works like a champ. Starter spins the flywheel and the engine starts up like a champ on fresh ether.

But only for a second. Then it dies. Fresh gasoline with a perfect mix. The hose from the fuel pump to the carb is solid, and when I've removed the attachment to the carb there is pressure and fuel comes shooting out. No signs of air leakage anywhere, no fuel drip, lines are on tight. So I wonder if I just need a new carb or if it can just be cleaned? Noticed that when I tried to blow air through the long hose leading to the carb that the gas doesn't blow through and it seems airtight. I thought I'd cleaned it pretty well, but I can give it another shot. If so, are the carb/fuel pump rebuild kits for a 74 55hp Chrysler compatible with these? Seems that they aren't making much for a 45 year old motor anymore!

Could this have something to do with the idle screw in the gearcase? The lower unit has fresh oil and is sealed tight, but I don't know what is in the upper unit and the screws are, well, screwy. I wanted to avoid taking the covers off if I can.

 

[Nordin]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

Have you tried to give it a short choke when it will dies?
Check out the reeds, have had a issue with a 45Hp that did not want to idle. One paddle at the reedvalve was broken.

 

[willieandralphsdad]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

I found the problem (one of the problems anyways). I tracked the fuel right up to the carb but observed that no fuel was entering the carb bowl. I didn't realize the elbow was removable, so I removed it and observed that a piece of rubber was clogging the elbow. As it turns out, it was the float needle seat, all shredded. So now its out and everythings clean. . .but how do I replace a float needle seat for a 1969 Chrysler. Part number is FO10790 for a 1974 55hp. . .that's the best I can come up with.

Does anyone know of a way to jerryrig this part, or how to find something equivalent. I've called all the boat repair shops around here and got a litany of bad news. Seems silly to abandon a motor because of such a tiny tiny part.I think when I get it fixed the thing is going to fire right up. Maybe another needle kit? Any help much appreciated..

 

[willieandralphsdad]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

The good news is the Franz Marine has everything you could possibly need for old Chryslers. I got the full kit, gaskets, seat, needle, cork, for $37. No one around here would even really talk to me about Chryslers, or about motors even older than 1992. Franz was helpful and knowledgeable and if you're reading this in 2015 because you bought an old Chrysler and you're searching around on iboats for info. . .then this is the guy to talk to.

 

[Nordin]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

I was going to give you Franz Marine but you answered your own question.
He is really serviceminded, have bought many parts from him. He also ship worldwide. Not cheap, but the parts he doesn?t have for Chrysler/Force OB are not available.

 

[willieandralphsdad]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

Yeah but I was starting to get a little panicky. I'm not out of the woods yet, but at least I know I can get parts. I'm completely mystified by the gearcase still, but I think I'm getting the hang of the fuel system. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm trying to learn.

 

[willieandralphsdad]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

Ok so I got the parts I needed from Franz Marine, rebuilt the carb, installled and the motor fired up! And idled! But here's the problem. . .lots of white smoke coming out the lower prop water outlet. The prop runs, but is smoky. Is this something that'll clean itself u (the prop is in neutral) or should I be worried? If so, what should I be looking for? Do I need to take apart the lower unit?

 

[wickware]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

Smoke is normal standing in a barrel vs moving on the water IMO. More so with the efforts you have gone through. Most important, do you see any water coming out the exhaust port to know it is cooling (similar to the attachment). A Tell Tale attached also could be an interest in the future to easily see solid cooling water vs exhaust mixed in the water.

Shift to see if you are getting your gears (FNR idling) and you are probably fine if you added the L/U oil to full and not leaking.

Put it on the water and test it which is different than in the barrel or muffs. Good Luck!!

 

[willieandralphsdad]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

Good feedback thank you wickware. Where does the water enter the unit? I've got water coming from both the upper and lower exhausts.

I'm afraid my front gear might be shot. In moderate idle, I can shift into reverse and the prop spins, but I can't get serious spin in forward. I wonder if I'm missing something, again? I assume i'd need to dismantle only the prop to make these repairs?

This has been a fun project, but a little tricky for a newbie. Feedback from this site has been invaluable.

 

[wickware]

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp #5555

"Good feedback thank you wickware. Where does the water enter the unit? I've got water coming from both the upper and lower exhausts."

1. Sounds like you should be cooling if you see water coming out the rear and lower exhaust.
2. Have you tester your over-heat sensor to see it?s working and should sound or light-up if over heating.
3. The sensor is in the head back by the lower spark plug (grounded to head at the orange wire with the switch on, it should activate a sound or light.
4. Are you in a barrel of water or have muffs attached to the L/U water intake?

"I'm afraid my front gear might be shot. In moderate idle, I can shift into reverse and the prop spins, but I can't get serious spin in forward. I wonder if I'm missing something, again? I assume i'd need to dismantle only the prop to make these repairs?"

1. Have you changed the L/U impeller and you are sure you got the shift linkage centered afterwards?
2. The easiest tell Tale IMO, is to disconnect the linkage under the leg's cover and shift it manually (FNR) by pulling and pushing the shift rod at the L/U. Centering the coupling can be a challenge by starting both threaded rods at the same time. I open the leg enough rem and replace the cotter pin (with one longer bolt/nut holding the opening) to eliminate this issue if I am shifting fine.

3. As I remember you had both L/U plugs missing, that could be telling of an L/U issue if you d/n know that history. It could be a control box or cable issue but shifting manually should prove the L/U good or bad. BUT! Get others opinion before trying my shifting manual idea. I

I have a 1970 35 HP Chrysler that I have maintained since 1984 as New to OB motors vs Automotive and Small Combustion Engines. My 35HP is possibly the same as your 55 HP except for HP elements. See the attachments and show yours to compare.

Good Luck! I'll Jump in if I see you dealing with I have dealt with directly. If you d/n have a mechanical background, I know you have a close friend that has. This could save you some Headaches that others have experience.