1969 EVINRUDE 55 HP

[kax2000]

Need help on this one.
THANKS IN ADVANCE WITH ANY HELP!


1969 55hp Evinrude 3 cyl. on a 1969 Bomber Bass Boat
Helping a friend out.
On the lake fishing 2 months ago motor just quit heading back to boat ramp.
Would not re-start killed battery trying.
Diagnosed no spark.
Dist. Cap and Rotor were ?carbon coated?.
Shined all contact surfaces on rotor and cap. Replaced/Build new plug wires.
Replaced coil with CDI coil due to wire not being removable from factory coil.
Spark gap test was bright blue at a ??.
Took on lake to tune cabs low side and check idle and performance.
Started right up and took off. He?s cruising around the lake will I am tuning carbs and looking over stuff.
After about 15 minutes motor dies?.no restart. Tolling motor back to ramp.
Spark test shows orange spark at 1/16?
Tested coil?.BAD
Replaced Amplifier and put old coil we took off earlier back on. Set/cleaned the points. Timed per secret file here on iboats. link-n-synced per the manual.
Started on muffs. Spark was back to blue and cracking with tester on.
Took boat back on lake to test and tune?..
Same thing - ran it around while tuning it, adjusted the carbs, checking timing, where it was running good lots of power, dies no restart.
Note: fuel bulb was firm through out all of this if it matters

Used timing light, while on the water trying to start motor to confirm that we were not getting spark, or enough spark to trigger the timing light.

Tested stator 1.2 ohms at "200" setting on digital meter.

So I guess my first question is....what is the proper way to test a stator for ac voltage(before rectifier) while starting? Or is there somewhere else I should be looking?

 

[F_R]

The stator exists to charge the battery once the motor is running. It has nothing to do with spark or starting (except to the extent that you need a good charged battery). In fact, you could totally disconnect the yellow stator wires, and the motor should still start and run.

An AC voltage test is a waste of time. It can vary all over the place.

 

[F_R]

Those intermittent problems can be hard to diagnose because you need to do some testing while it is not working. It sounds like you are pretty knowledgeable and capable. If you can test things while it won't run, start at the beginning. Do you have proper battery voltage at the amplifier input? Well let's back up a bit. Even before that, you should have made totally and absolutely sure the battery and cables are in good condition and all connections are shiny clean and tight.

Where you go from there depends on the result of your voltage test at the amplifier input. Voltage not ok, work backwards through the circuit. Could be as simple as a bad key switch or loose wires on it. If voltage is ok, there are some checks you can do to see if the amplifier and coil are working. They probably are, since you have replaced them and it didn't help. Your statement about the carbon coated cap and rotor raises a flag.