1969 Johnson 9.5 Lean/Rich Screw

[Calcasieu]

I am trying to get my freshly rebuilt motor to run. I have great spark on both cylinders. I believe my carb is the culprit and needs some tweaking. I have read how to set the lean/rich adjustment knob. 1.5 turns out from gently seated. My question is does it look right? In the picture below I have two washers on either side of the lean/rich needle spring. Both washers came in my carb rebuild kit. In the exploded parts diagram it shows these two washers where I have them. However, when I turn the needle in to "gently seated" the spring appears to be over compressed. Just wondering if it looks okay to ya'll or if the washers are wrong and I have the needle turned to the incorrect spot.

I will try to start it as soon as it stops raining...Rebuilding outboards in your apartment has its limitations...:cold:

Thanks in advance!

 

[F_R]

I would have to agree that the spring doesn't look just right. Possibly wrong spring??? Yes, it is supposed to have two washers. Don't know, can't tell if yours might be too thick???

So, does the motor run at all? It should at least start no matter where you have that needle set unless it is all so terribly off. Might run lousy once started though. Try starting it without the spring/washers if you think that is the problem.

 

[Calcasieu]

I know the spring is correct. I am thinking the washer touching the carb body may be the wrong size. I found one on ebay I think I will order.

I finished rebuilding the entire motor yesterday and was able to get it running for 2.5 seconds...I regapped the plugs and checked spark. Both wires had great spark. I rebuilt and cleaned the carb. I know its clean. Now its just a matter of getting it setup correctly.

As soon as the rain holds off I will give it another go and chime back in with results.

If anyone else has this motor with a close up of their carb adjustment needle it would be super helpful!

 

[AlTn]

zero experience with a 9.5...in general tho' starting most 2 stroke outboards in the lower hp. ranges...pull the choke on completely, advance the twist grip to the maximum it will achieve with the motor in neutral...motor should attempt to fire within 4 or 5 pulls, when it does reduce the choke to 1/2 < may be necessary to push the choke completely off instead at this point, varies with different engines >...point being this...if your starting procedure varies from this, give this procedure a try...it's not difficult to flood a small engine trying to start it... to check for flooding, pull one of the spark plugs and try to sling some fuel mix onto your palm, more than a few drops and it's flooded....if the plug yields no fuel mix, that's another story

 

[Calcasieu]

Okay quick update. I followed the instructions above. It ran for about 4 seconds and died. All other trys yielded meer sputters. Pulled the plugs and they arent dry but definitely not wet. The fuel hose bulb is firm...I didnt move the lean/rich screw.

EDIT: Just tried again with half choke and it tried to run again for about 2 seconds.

So far what has helped is choke and needle adjustment. I think the needle is more of an issue since the position it's in doesn't look quite right.

 

[Vic.S]

Look at Leeroys ramblings. There's info and pictures that might help.http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.5.htm

The washers look too big to me

From Leeroy's site:

 

[Calcasieu]

Oh wow you're right! the one touching the o-ring is the one in question. The other one would have no effect if replaced. Good find on that picture. I looked all over the internet for that image. I will go ahead and order the washer on ebay.

In other news I got it to run for like 30 seconds! The biggest factor by far is the choke adjustment...

So here is what went down. It started and died on full choke. I opened choke halfway and it started running. It sounded good too. Now I can get it to sputter or run for a couple seconds but ever so often its almost as if the motor "coughs" or "sneezes" from the lower unit exhaust and water from my bucket splashes out. Any idea what that's about?

 

[kbait]

Don't bother trying to tune until you replace that washer next to the o-ring. The spring pushes that washer and o-ring into the carb hole, and seats to the shoulder inside, sealing the needle to carb. The way you have it now, air will leak by needle, and you'll run lean at idle no matter how you adjust..
Good luck!

 

[Calcasieu]

Kbait: That makes total sense!

I would like to thank all of you for the help. Seriously. This little motor would be simple to work on for some but for me it has been a big project. I am almost there! I will give you all an update when I get the washer in and try to start her up.

 

[Vic.S]

Kbait: That makes total sense!

I would like to thank all of you for the help. Seriously. This little motor would be simple to work on for some but for me it has been a big project. I am almost there! I will give you all an update when I get the washer in and try to start her up.

Anyone with a 9.9, 15 or even 9.5 should know about LeeRoys ramblings . Quite a bit on 6 and 8 hp as well

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboard Motor Related/OMC outboard related articles.html

The sneeze is a "lean sneeze" sort out the mixture screw to prevent air going in and hopefully the sneeze will be gone and you can adjust the mixture screw as necessary but it is only a slow running adjustment. The high speed is a fixed orifice.

 

[AlTn]

if your patience can't wait for the new washer...take the oring with you to to the hardware store and see how close a match you can come up with using leeroy's pic as a guide...swap'em out when the other one arrives, if necessary

 

[Calcasieu]

I was actually planning on doing that today. I already have the old washer and the o-ring in a plastic baggie ready to go. I know tractor supply sells a bunch of random fittings.

 

[Calcasieu]

No Title

I ended up making my own washer. I spent $.25 on a #10 brass washer. I had to bore it out about 1mm with a drill. It came out great. The rich/lean screw now looks at lot more natural in its gently seated position. I have it all back together. When the rain stops I will try to fire it up again.

I do have one concern. Since this is a full rebuild (new piston rings and honed cylinders with new gaskets and seals all around) should I break it in with 24:1 fuel mix? Does anyone know the proper break in period/procedure?

 

[AlTn]

factory manual for a 9.9..do not operate at continuous full power for the 1st hr. after 15 minutes of slow to 1/2 throttle then a short burst of full throttle for 90 secs.every 5 to 10 minutes, then return to 1/2 throttle or less.
2nd. hr/..bring boat to plane and reduce throttle to 3/4 while maintaining plane. at intervals apply full power for 1 or 2 minutes returning to 3/4 throttle for a cooling period.
avoid continuous full throttle operation during the next 3 hours. This is done on a 50:1 mix.

I was advised on the break end for a 18...24:1 mix..6 gals...idle speed for the first 30 minutes...no more than 1/2 throttle for the next 30 min returning to idle frequently...bursts to 3/4 throttle, no more, returning to idle frequently for the next 1 hr....on plane for the next hour with full throttle no more than 5 minutes at a time..avoid continuous full throttle for the remainder of the 6 gal. tank...resume 50:1 mix with normal operation thereafter

So...between these recommendations ...the 24:1 mix for 6 gals and the operations for time periods is what I'd take from it....both of the above are with the motor in gear pushing a boat

 

[Calcasieu]

After lots of trial and error. I was finally able to get it cranked up in a small bucket. I can consistently get it to run in no more than 5 pulls (it runs but not well). It has a pretty bad lean sneeze which I am chalking up to not enough back pressure on the exhaust due to my small bucket and the lack of water. I am happy with where I am for now until I can get it on the back of my jon boat and try to tune it correctly. The only problem is the boat is 5 hours away in Louisiana. I am trying to track one down for cheap here in Austin.

I will come back with more updates hopefully when I have it running like a top!

 

[Xcusme]

I've been watching your progress...and it sounds like your well on you way...BUT ...when I hear words like "small bucket" ....and "lack of water" I cringe. Make sure that you have enough water to cover at least 2 inches ABOVE the water pump impeller. I'd hate to hear you got the motor toasted because you needed a larger cooling container. Good Luck !!

 

[Calcasieu]

Thanks for the concern Xcusme. It's a 5 gallon paint bucket with the skeg touching the bottom. I'd say it covers 2 or 3 inches above the impeller. It was never run more than 30 seconds in the bucket and each time water was gushing out of the exhaust hole. I have come to realize the bucket it too small to do anything other than "see if it will start." I don't think any damage has been caused. I am hoping to get it in the water soon to actually try and tune and diagnose any issues.

 

[nabiul]

I'm missing the rubber seal on my carburetor. Is this supposed to be completely air tight? Can I put some silicone around my washer and form a seal in place?

 

[Calcasieu]

Nabiul: The issue with with not using the original seal is spacing. The lean/rich screw needs to be gently seated and turned back 1.5 turns...If you used silicone on the back of the washer to create a seal the spacing wouldn't be the same as the oem o ring. I believe it could work. It would just be a little trickier to tune the screw since you wouldn't be able to go by the gently seated and turning out 1.5 turns guide line.

The o ring is slightly oversized so it does create a very tight seal between the screw and the opening in the carb.

 

[nabiul]

Well the good thing is that the motor runs without the seal. I just fired it up for the first time this season and was having trouble keeping it idling without the choke so I thought maybe the seal could help. Also when I primed (old) fuel into the filter bowl it looked all cloudy. Later I took a look in the float bowl and it appeared to be a white slimy substance... funugs growing in the fuel?