For the crank halves, I put a bead around, then spread it evenly with a small painters paint brush for an even, consistent coat. Dry fit first to ensure everything closes as it should, then add the sealer. Then drive in the pins to set after mating the two halves, before installing the bolts and torqueing. They are tapered, so they go in one way, and drive them in from the front of motor towards the rear, aft. Put 3M847 on the crank halve bolts as well.
For gaskets that require sealer, to tell you the truth I use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, is a can with a brush built in the lid. To coat the gasket evenly, spread it on the gasket, then use on of your wifes old magazines, with the shiny pages. Close the magazine with gasket in it coated, then open it and pull it out. WIll come out with the compound perfectly spread on it. NOTE: Don't use one of her new magazines, bad things will happen!
The dry gaskets I install dry such as carb, etc...
For resealing the gearcase, cut the spaghetti seal a bit long to start, put it in groove then push it outwards towards the outer edge of groove, then trim it so that it has a 1/16" overhang at the prop shaft seal housing. This ensures that it cannot shrink in the groove, causing a spot where water can get in. Don't want the overhand too long though, or it will buckle, and again allow water in. Once you have the length, take the seal out, and put a bead of 3M847 in the groove. Re install the spaghetti seal, allow it a couple mins to get tacky. Helps hold it in while you assemble. Put a bead around the skeg piece, and drop it on the other half. Put 3M847 on the skeg bolts as well.
If you have never done it before, do it dry a couple times to practise lining up the skeg half, shift rod bolt, etc... without buckling the spaghetti seal. Once confident, add sealer and complete the job.
