1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

[MercFan]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

The electrical wire ran from the choke lever that sticks through the cowling, to the positive pole of the solenoid! If you can't picture it in your mind, and it sounds totally ridiculous, that's what they did!<br /><br />And the hp mod... That's exactly what I mean! I'm sure you've met a lot of people that are convinced that if you put bigger mains jets in an engine, it will perform better! The guys that had the engine before me, are "those kind of guys".<br /><br />Thanx 460! That's one step closer to the solution!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

one of the ways to help ID that block is by the intake transfer port covers. the thin covers were used on most motors I cant remember all the details but I dont think the 115 in 70 used the wide diamond shaped covers only the 1150 did.<br /> maybe clams can shed more light on it.<br /> if your worried about the timing marks bit of math cn help. measure the circumfrerence and divide it by 360 and you can get how many inches equal how many degrees. your method of timing will warrenty a blown piston. you will never hear the detonation but you will feel the power loss. my recomendtion would be to start at about 19* and see what happens. todays fuel is a bit low on antiknock compounds for some of the inline mercs.<br /> as far as jetting start big nd work down while carefully inspecting the plugs. 2 sizes to small and poof no piston.<br /> another way to continue the timing marks is to simply use a pair of calipers and measure the distance between the current marks and just continue making marks at the same spacing. or you can use the factory method using the dial indicator to properly set the piston at the correct location and make a dimple with a punch.<br />but knowing the block is later than 1970 and not knowing what it is we have no good way of knowing if it has boost port pistons or high or low dome eyebrows. if they are high dome and your 4 degrees to much advance or 2 jet sizes to small you WILL melt a piston. its a fact of life with a high dome piston. the only way to tell now will be to remove a transfer port and physically look at the piston skirt and dome.<br />myself I would treat it as a high dome until I was sure otherwise.<br /> maybe clams can help a bit more with which models and years used the high dome,boost port and wide transfer port covers.

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

I'd never heard of color tuning until I read your post above MercFan...<br /><br />I thought I'd post a link to more info about the device involved here...in case others are curious.<br /><br /> http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm/fa/p/pid/3448/sc/8189 <br /><br />Thanks for reading, Chuck

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

try that at 5500 with a full load, just revvining the motor with no load while watching the window is worse than a waste of time as it tells you nothing about what is happening at WOT and full load which is how your outboard has to run. <br /> while its a creative looking tool for outboard service it will be a teat on a boar hog I fear.<br /> unlike auto´s but similar to tractors outboards always have a load. when was the last time you hooked up the max weight trailer your auto could handle then placed the tachometer on its redline and went uphill for 6 or 7 miles.<br /> if you dont belive me about the load see how long it takes your car to coast to a stop when you kill the ign at 30 MPH in nuetral then kill the ign or just throttle back to nuetral in your bot and see the difference in deacceleration.<br /> myself I would keep searching to figgure out what block/piston combination and what carbs someone used and set it up accordingly.

 

[andy6374]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Got a quick question about the timing decals.<br /><br />In the factory manual it says line up .462 on the flywheel. But I see a 0 tick mark as well (with 0-24 degress on either side of it) and it sorta far away form the .462 tick mark. Why would they call .462 TDC instead of 0? <br /><br />And if I am trying to time the engine which one do I follow.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

.462" is the piston is .462" away from TDC. TDC is .000.<br /> .462 will be the physical location of the piston from .000. its a method used to verify your marks are correct. its also a way to find .000 and verify the TDC marks are correct as well. if done properly its the most accurate method to set the timing and timing marks.<br /> there is a bit of math involved but if you know the crankshaft stroke you can determine where the piston is in relation to TDC. TDC means Top Dead Center. BTDC means Before Top Dead center. ATDC means After Top Dead Center. some engines idle some degrees after the piston croses TDC and as the crankshaft speed increases,to allow for the physicfal time it takes for fuel to burn, we need to light the mix some degrees BTDC. however to much and as the fuel mix is burning while being compresed we can no longer control the combustion heat and therefore speed and we get what is known as detonation. detonation is simply an uncontroled burn of the mix that instaed of a steady push it goes bang. similar to the difference in smokeles powder VS black powder.<br /> all your doing with ign timing is setting the spark to spark at the proper time that the piton is a specified distance from TDC, usually measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation.<br /> which is why proper ign timing is critical. to much spark advance,mening the spark goes off while the piston is to far from TDC mens it may detonate to little advance means the fuel is still burning when the exhaust port is uncovered and the exhaust temp spikes and can led to divider plate or piston ring land failure at the exhaust port area.<br /> thats why most high reving engines, especially short stroke ones, do not like high octane fuel. it burns to slow at high RPM.<br /> does that help any ?<br /> you can pick up a dail indicator and magnetic base forles than 50 dollars for setting the timing with the dial indicator method.

 

[andy6374]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

YEP. I will go home and re-read the manual and if I am still unsure I will post again

 

[andy6374]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Could I also:<br /><br />Guesstimate TDC with a screwdriver or something similar. Make a mark on the powerhead right under the 0 degree tick on the flywheel. SO the tick is stationary. And then just set the primary and max spark advance that way?

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Originally posted by MercFan:<br /> The electrical wire ran from the choke lever that sticks through the cowling, to the positive pole of the solenoid! If you can't picture it in your mind, and it sounds totally ridiculous, that's what they did!<br /><br />And the hp mod... That's exactly what I mean! I'm sure you've met a lot of people that are convinced that if you put bigger mains jets in an engine, it will perform better! The guys that had the engine before me, are "those kind of guys".<br /><br />Thanx 460! That's one step closer to the solution!

To me - those carbs look 1150 - for a couple reasons.<br /><br />-W

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

the screwdriver method may get ya within a few degrees. I use it to quickly verify if a motor that uses a flywheel key has a sheared key but NOT for actually setting the timing marks.<br /> like I said some of the older inline mercs would not tolerate even a 4 degree advance error. in fact most of the older ones we retard the timing 4-6 degrees due to todays fuel. some of the older crossflow jonnies hve the same issue. if everything is but nut perfect and the fuel is fresh and of about 90 octane or higher it will work, the slightest fuel system or cooling system malfunction and your posting about #3 or #1 piston melted. <br /> the easiest way is to use a dial indicator and a magnetic base. use your screwdriver to get the piston to #1TDC roughly. set the indicator to = about midrange of the indicators travel. now rotate the flywheel and watch the indictor s it falls make a pencil mrk on the flywheel at about the -.05" indicator reding, continue to rotate the fly wheel until the indicator shows + .05 and make a mark. make a mark mid way between the two and rotate the motor half that distance. if the indicator is not zeroed then zero it and erase the previous marks and repeat the procedure. it may take once or twice but it works. the mid point between -.05 and +.05 is TDC. once TDC is establisd dont touch the indicator and continue rotating the motor,book says go backwards but I dont like to, until in your case,.462 is the dial indicator reading. that is the timing advance mark. one of the sets of dots on your flywheel should now line up with the pointer. if not double check that the pointer and the indictor both agree on TDC and do it again. you have to use n indicator with at least 1/2 inch travel, mine has an inch. or I should say the one I use for this work, my other only has .030 travel but is accurate to .0005 or so. what the objective is is to find the middle of .05 after and .05 before as you will have a few degrees of crank rotation that has little to no piston motion. its called the dead space.<br />happens twice per revolution once at the top and once at the bottom.

 

[andy6374]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

rodbolt-<br />I don't have a flywheel cover, so I don't have the timing pointer. So what are my options? maybe i'm confused.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

the pointer can be made from a coat hanger wire or any other fixed obgect.<br /> take a deep breath and relax.<br /> the objective is to mrk the flywheel(a moving part) to a known non moving part. from there its simple matter of math.<br /> once you find TDC with a dial indicator, make a ponter or a paint dot on the block( finger nil polish is wonderful for this) this will be called TDC, from here you have several options.<br /> one is to find the ,in your case, .462" BTDC with a dial indictor and make a mark on the flywheel directly oposite the mark you made on the block or use 12" dil caliper and measere the diameter of the flywheel, multiply the dia times PI and divide that by 360 to find the thousanths of an inch per degree of circumference.<br /> I think the formula is 2xDxPI = circumference it may be DxPI=c. its esy to find on the net.<br />math and polar beer in venezeuala gets a bit difficult .<br /> dont get hung up on covers and pointers. remember the objective.<br /> the objective is to referene TDC of the crank/piston, the easiest spot is on the flywheel, with a non moving point someplace in space.<br /> then make another mark on the flywheel that corresponds to degrees of crankshaft rotation. its basic math once you locate TDC and make a mark on the block and flywheel at TDC then do the math,cut a strip of paper the correct length ,lay the paper strip along the circumference in the same place you measured it and make another mark for total advance.<br /> for the ake of simplicity lets say your flywheel is 360 inches in circumference. divide C(360") by 360 and you get 1.<br /> that means each inch of circumference equals one degree.<br /> to get a bit more real. we will say your flywheels circumferens is 28" divide 28 by 360 and you get.078. that means each .o78 equals 1 degree. say you need 21 degrees. multiply .o78 by 21 you get 1.638. now cut a piece of paper that length. using the previous mark we made on the flywheel lay it along the previously measued circumference and volia, your now at 21 degrees of movement from the last mark. just remember you must lay the paper on the same circumference you measured or there is more math involved. you can use the thick portion of the flywheel od or the teeth just whatever plane you measuere the circle is the same plane you lay your paper and make your marks.<br /> remember the pointer is a reference, if you can garuntee you park the boat in the ame spor a mark on the wall will suffice, but a point that does not move on the block is eaier. after that we just wish to know another reference on the moving crank where is the piston at TDC then if you desire and have a lot of patience you can make 360 marks on the flywheel for each compass degree.<br /> am I any clearer ?<br /> the polar is killing me but its oh so good and only 50 cents a bottle

 

[andy6374]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Oh my lord, I'VE GOT IT.<br /><br />The math part wasn't the hard thing (as I have a math and physics degree) but it was the setup (the common sense part) that was confusing me.<br /><br />Thanks rodbolt.<br /><br />DRINK more polar!

 

[MercFan]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Scored me a 5000 litre water tank today that I can do preliminary tuning in. But it looks like my parts won't arrive till next week (Just the bloody seats!)<br /><br />I can also get hold of a dial guage without any hassle. So I don't believe timing to be a prob anymore. 21 deg BTDC. Dug up my old timing light. Did a compression check on all cylinders (Had to dig that up aswell). All spot on the same. Checked the 2 fuel pump diaphrams, both hold pressure without it leaking away.<br /><br />I think I can still dig up an old color tune, and with the tank I should be able to run at power (Probably not full power), but enough to quickly see if I have the correct jets in or not. I kept the .076s, so they'll go in first.<br /><br />Engine's been repainted. Couldn't find phantom black though, but it sure looks better than in the pics.<br /><br />All in all I'm all set!<br /><br />Thanx very much guys for the help and info! I'll still post the pics of the exhaust ports tommorrow

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

mercfan<br /> someplace in the merc tech bullitens are the specs to cut down a propeller to make a test wheel to allow full power runs while the hull is stationary. if you attept it with a standard prop and the hull is stationary your color tuning is a teat on a boar hog. in other words its usless.<br /> you may also try the v4 yamaha test whell with the correct thrust wsher. make sure you have the 6cyl 2.0 gear ratio and not the 4cyl 2.4 it makes a terrible difference.<br /> its common for the 4 cyl case to be installed on a 6 and all bets are off after that.<br /> myself not knowing who did what I would use the circumference method and start at about 15 degrees BTDC and work up. if you can get the yamaha test wheel it will be of great assistance.<br /> but all testing must be under full load not over or under loaded.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

andy<br /> I have no degrees, I do recall getting a high school de plomer some years back<br /> however I have about 35 years of doing machine and mechanic work with a 6 year break for doing work as an FC (navy´s advanced electronics field) so I have a small amount of practicle experience.<br /> if my property there sells I hope to use my knowledge here in VE to train and assist some folk that have been less fortunate than me , so far I have done it well.

 

[MercFan]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Thanx for the advice Rod!<br /><br />Our dam/lake isn't far from my house, so as soon as I can get it started and idling as smooth as I can get it, and idle in gear without dieing, I'll tow it there and do the final setup on open water.<br /><br />I just don't wanna do all the settings at 30mph hanging off the back of the boat.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

me either but I do sometimes. if you do make water settings use a trusted helmsman that is NOT on your life insurance policy .<br /> I got tossed off the back of a 22 swan point with an evinrude 225 at 56 MPH once. it aint fun and it happens real quick cause the helmsman did not see a minor(4ft) tug boat wake. if you do it on the water please wear a life jacket. I was lucky all I lost was my shoes.

 

[MercFan]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

lol! Will do! And yes, the boat came with about 7 life jackets and I bought my own in addition <br /><br />I read somewhere that if I do fall off, atleast I won't get hit by the prop, and I thought to myself "That's one less thing to worry about" <br /><br />Thanks again all!

 

[MercFan]

Re: 1970 Mercury 1150 - The story continues (Pictures)

Ok, here's the pic of what I *think* is the exhaust ports. This is the side of the engine that actually has heatsink fins. This pic was taken looking down into the bottom cowl. Starter and carbs are off the right of the picture and spark plugs will be on the left.<br /><br />I marked what I think to be 2 exhaust channels. There is a bolt coming up from the bottom that goes vertically into the block.<br /><br />Sorry it's not clearer, but I just can't get the camera manuvered in there.<br /><br />