1971 Evinrude motor

[glaspar1971]

Dear All,

I am new boat owner. I wanted to restore a 1971 Glasspar with Evinrude outboard motor Model 100193A. The motor cranks up but no spark. I replaced the coil and still no spark.
I wanted to take it to a pro but no one is willing to take up the challenge.
Hence I decided to work on it myself.
Any suggestions?

Thank you

 

[dingbat]

Dear All,

I am new boat owner. I wanted to restore a 1971 Glasspar with Evinrude outboard motor Model 100193A. The motor cranks up but no spark. I replaced the coil and still no spark.
I wanted to take it to a pro but no one is willing to take up the challenge.
Hence I decided to work on it myself.
Any suggestions?

Thank you

Purchase the OEM for your motor and run through the troubleshooting procedures for the various components.

A heck of a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it

 

[F_R]

Dear All,

I am new boat owner. I wanted to restore a 1971 Glasspar with Evinrude outboard motor Model 100193A. The motor cranks up but no spark. I replaced the coil and still no spark.
I wanted to take it to a pro but no one is willing to take up the challenge.
Hence I decided to work on it myself.
Any suggestions?

Hoo boy, Lord help me! I'm trying to hold back my response to that question.

First step is stand back and evaluate what you bought. Is it complete? Are all wires original, and not cracked and bare? Does it show signs of a previous overheat? Do you have a known to be good battery? When did it last run? etc., etc.

Then tell us about yourself. Do you understand basic electricity, and ignition systems? Are you a mechanic? Do you have tools? etc., etc. Are you prepared to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on it? What are your tolerance levels?

There are reasons that shops won't touch it. 1. They don't know how. 2. If they do know how, they don't want to get several hundred dollars into it and discover other problems. 3. Will you balk at paying the bill? etc., etc.

The original factory service manual will tell you how it works, but the troubleshooting procedure is obsolete and uses obsolete testers.

 

[glaspar1971]

Purchase the OEM for your motor and run through the troubleshooting procedures for the various components.

A heck of a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it

Thank you

 

[glaspar1971]

Hoo boy, Lord help me! I'm trying to hold back my response to that question.

First step is stand back and evaluate what you bought. Is it complete? Are all wires original, and not cracked and bare? Does it show signs of a previous overheat? Do you have a known to be good battery? When did it last run? etc., etc.

Then tell us about yourself. Do you understand basic electricity, and ignition systems? Are you a mechanic? Do you have tools? etc., etc. Are you prepared to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on it? What are your tolerance levels?

There are reasons that shops won't touch it. 1. They don't know how. 2. If they do know how, they don't want to get several hundred dollars into it and discover other problems. 3. Will you balk at paying the bill? etc., etc.

The original factory service manual will tell you how it works, but the troubleshooting procedure is obsolete and uses obsolete testers.

Thank you for your response .....

First step is stand back and evaluate what you bought.
Is it complete? Yes
Are all wires original, and not cracked and bare? Wiring and cables are intact.
Does it show signs of a previous overheat? Not sure
Do you have a known to be good battery? I have a brand Duracell battery.
When did it last run? about 2 years ago. Per seller, boat was functional. I am able to crank it but no spark.

Then tell us about yourself.
Do you understand basic electricity, and ignition systems? Yes I do.
Are you a mechanic? I work on my cars but boat motor is new to me.
Do you have tools? etc., etc. Yes
Are you prepared to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on it? 100s may be but not 1000s
What are your tolerance levels? high

There are reasons that shops won't touch it. 1. They don't know how. 2. If they do know how, they don't want to get several hundred dollars into it and discover other problems. 3. Will you balk at paying the bill? etc., etc.

The original factory service manual will tell you how it works, but the troubleshooting procedure is obsolete and uses obsolete testers.

 

[MFG1970]

I would start with the points and condenser. Its the easiest cheapest thing to check and replace. Check firing order is correct. You will be needing a manual to do the work and other things down the line. Trouble shooting is the best way to diagnose your issues. Just throwing parts at it could be very costly and unnecessary.

 

[F_R]

OK, you show hope. Let's start with the no-spark problem.

That motor has a battery CD ignition system, with a distributor and breaker points (no condenser). Don't jump to the conclusion that "it's always the black box". But the black box (amplifier) can be easily damaged. Make sure all connections are clean and tight, especially the battery cables. And don't invent your own tests.

First step: Turn key on and check voltage at the amplifier input (purple wire). Should be very near battery voltage. Now check the voltage while turning key to "start" position. Hopefully, it is still near battery voltage,

Second step: disconnect the coil and dis-mount it. Disconnect the spark lead from the distributor cap by rotating the entire coil and wire (it unscrews from the cap). Remount and reconnect the coil. Rig up a 3/8" spark gap off the end of the threaded wire. Disconnect the black/white stripe wire from the amplifier (it goes to the breaker points). Now, with key on, rapidly tap the amplifier wire to ground, fooling the amplifier into thinking the points are opening and closing. You should see sparks jumping your rigged gap. If it does, the amplifier and coil are working. No sparks,, the amplifier or coil are bad, take your pick/luck.

3rd step: So you got sparks. Now is the time to service the rest of the system. Pull the flywheel and distributor cap and check points and anti-reverse spring. The spring will wear over time and leave metal dust over everything. Clean everything and lube that spring very lightly with an EP grease. Those point do not burn like car points, but can mechanically wear after many hours. Set the gaps very accurately to 0.010" at widest opening.

Important: When reinstalling flywheel be sure tapers are clean and dry and use a torque wrench to tighten flywheel nut to 100-105 foot pounds

The factory service manual will have a wiring diagram.