1972 electric shift

wavrider

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
543
Re: 1972 electric shift

Ok we agree on the cap theory.

So if the cap is charged positive, which way would the current flow during discharge?

If the cap is charged negatively which way would the current flow?

This is one question I used to ask my class, sort of throws the whole current flow theory out of wack, which current flow is what started this discussion, which I am enjoying tremendously.

What makes the diode unique and how it is used in so many different circuits and applications is the doping in the junction, for a rectifier diode type, silicone, which is the only type I have seen in outboard service, current flows in the direction of the arrow in circuit in respect (there is that word again) to battery voltage.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 1972 electric shift

I promise this is my last comment on this thread. Electricity 101 says that all matter is made of atoms. We've all seen theoretical drawings of atoms, which look like a miniature solar system. The "sun" or nucleus has a positive charge. Wizzing around that are the "planets" or electrons in their little orbits or valences. Electrons have a negative charge. There is a specific number of electrons for each atom according to whatever element it is (copper, gold or whatever). The negative charge of the electrons exactly matches the positive charge of the nucleus.

Now imagine a ring of wire, one atom thick all the way around. If some force (generator, battery or whatever) yanks an electron out of an atom, it will jump into the next atom. We now have two atoms with incorrect number of electrons, one is missing an electron and the next one has one extra electron. The one missing an electron has a net positive charge and the one with an extra electron has a net negative charge (remember, electrons have a negative charge). Atoms cannot STAND having the wrong number of electrons, so the one with an extra electron shoves it over into the next atom. It doesn't go back to the atom it came from because of the force that yanked it out in the first place. So, now we still have two adjacent atoms with an unnatural number of electrons, except they are one atom further around the circle. This continues around the circle till the extra electron gets back to the source and fills the hole left by the first one to leave.

Of course, this is over simplification. In reality, the electrons all move simultneously, like a hula-hoop full of balls. That flow of electrons in a loop is an electrical current.

All this to say that it is the electrons that are flowing in the circuit, not the whole atom (minus it's one electron). Electrons have a negative charge. Therefor it is a negative charge that is flowing from the source and returning to the positive end of the source. If it were the positive charge that were flowing, that would mean the whole stupid atom (minus one electron) would be flowing. I would have to imagine that if 99.99% percent of the atoms were flowing, the whole wire would be going around.

Bottom line: Whatever force that is causing the electron flow is causing the electrons to pile up at the negative end and leaving an abesnce of electrons at the positive end. Connect the ends together with a wire and it is the negatively charged electrons that are flowing and they are coming from the negatively charged end of the source and returning to the positive end of the source. It is not the positively charged nucleus, and all the remaining electrons still around it, flowing from the positive end.

Only way to dispute this is to dispute atomic theory and say that electrons have a positive charge. Who invented the atomic theory anyway? Talk to him. Or dare I spell that "Him"?

I promised...last comment. Unless somebody gets me going again.
 

wavrider

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
543
Re: 1972 electric shift

:)

electron theory,

so what happens when the smoke escapes????
 

livin4real

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
167
Re: 1972 electric shift

Yes, bumping a year old thread, sorry. But I'd like to know what came of all this and if there was ever a parts list or detailed instructions? I have a 71' 50hp that the previous owner cut up the pigtail cord to add in a new ignition and didn't run any other wires back to the engine aside from the ignition wires. I have ordered manuals and have the original pigtail still attached to the control box and will splice it together today but it looks like some wires on the engine itself are unhooked also. Does someone have a picture of what wires go where on the powerhead to get me by until my manuals get here at the end of the week?

Thanks,
Brian
 

mars bar

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 30, 2008
Messages
395
Re: 1972 electric shift

A wealth of knowledge here as I had the same problem. Found a complete control on E bay. The shift switch switches gears but I have only 3 wires on this switch as apposed to 6 on the other one??? Different year? Older I suppose.
 

livin4real

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
167
Re: 1972 electric shift

I found an exact control set today on ebay but the plug is black instead of the yellow I need, sucks. I am heading out here shortly though to pick up a nice running Chrysler 55hp with controls and tilt/trim for $250 :) Hopefully it works as well as he says. I would still like a pic of someone's hydro electric drive powerhead connections if possible.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: 1972 electric shift

livin4real, that's a separate issue, so you'd prolly make the mods happier if you opened a new thread on the matter.
 

diver_down

Seaman
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
64
Re: 1972 electric shift

Here's one way. Joe does it differently. I don't reccomend either one. I consider them to be an accident ready to happen.
From the schematics looks like there's a really simple way to make it both safe and cheap:
parts needed: 3 position rotary switch + 2 relays.
install rotary switch with neutral in the middle and for / rev as it suites you.
put relays on both rev / for switch in such way so if one is powered of the other one is being "cut off" after the relay.
That way an accidental "short" will just power a "dead" (disconnected" piece of wire.
If you think this is the way you want to go and need help I can try and post a diagram.
 

livin4real

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
167
Re: 1972 electric shift

From the schematics looks like there's a really simple way to make it both safe and cheap:
parts needed: 3 position rotary switch + 2 relays.
install rotary switch with neutral in the middle and for / rev as it suites you.
put relays on both rev / for switch in such way so if one is powered of the other one is being "cut off" after the relay.
That way an accidental "short" will just power a "dead" (disconnected" piece of wire.
If you think this is the way you want to go and need help I can try and post a diagram.


It's looking like it's the only way I can fix it without giving my first born for parts! lol. I'm handy but not an electrical engineer so I need it in laymans terms and spelled out. I tried reading this whole thread over a few times and the technical jargon just got too corn-fusing for me. So yes I would greatly appreciate any help on this since I have a strong running engine that just won't shift.
 

powerstrokindad

Recruit
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
1
Re: 1972 electric shift

When i bought my boat, the shift switch was removed. i wired in a toggle switch and used a couple of relays to get F-N-R. I mounted it just above the throttle lever on the boat. Easy to get to and use when getting the boat on the trailer or docking. If anyone would like, i can take some pictures and draw a small diagram. i have none of the issues that everyone says will arise with this set up...let me know if i can help...Rodney
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: 1972 electric shift

install rotary switch with neutral in the middle and for / rev as it suites you.
put relays on both rev / for switch in such way so if one is powered of the other one is being "cut off" after the relay.
That way an accidental "short" will just power a "dead" (disconnected" piece of wire.

You can't do it that way. The hydro-electric shift system defaults to forward when thre is no power to either solenoid. Applying 12VDC to the green wire (upper solenoid) results in neutral, while applying 12VDC to both the green and blue wires (upper & lower solenoids) results in reverse.
 
Top