1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

[jay_merrill]

Hi to all of the Chrysler/Force folks. I just picked up an old Chrysler 10hp for 50 bucks from a guy who has had it sitting around for years. He bought it new but stopped using it a long time ago.

The model number is 102HA, which I believe is a 1974, and the serial number is 1522. The motor turns over, and shows about 70 psi on the upper cylinder when pulled through a few times with the rope/recoil starter. I couldn't get a reading on the lower cylinder because it is pretty deeply recessed in the lower cowl pan and my compression tester wouldn't fit in that space. Frankly, I am pretty uneducated in regard to Chrysler motors, so I didn't bring the right tool to get a full compression test done. I did turn the motor through with the flywheel a few times, however, to see if each cylinder felt about the same as they reached TDC. Unscientific, I know, but the best I could do at the time and the motor felt pretty good.

There are no signs of overheating and the motor is relatively clean for its age. It looks like it was used but not overly so, and there are no obvious signs of abuse. The motor does not run but it does shift easily and engagement into forward or reverse can be felt. I didn't check the gearcase oil, which I probably should have, but decided not to since I was short on time and was only gambling 50 dollars on this motor. The only immediate need that I see, other than the usual rebuilt items (carb, fuel pump, water pump, ignition, etc.), is that the transom bracket/clamp on the starboard side is missing.

I did a little surfing here on iboats and came up with a site for a service manual (http://www.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-manuals-outboards.htm) but didn't find too much else on this motor. Since the only exposure that I have ever had to a Chrysler outboard was a 35hp model that my grandaddy had in the late sixties, any pearls of wisdom, rebuilding and/or service advice, cool websites, or any other info that y'all can provide, will be appreciated.

Hmmmmmmmm ..... I wonder if I can turn this thing into a "baby HEMI!"

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

Hard to argue with a $50 investment.You could get an idea of the compression by holding your thumb over the hole while someone cranks it.
should blow your thumb off or at least leak past.It does appear that fuel,ignition and cooling parts are available right here at iboats or NAPA.
That surprises me.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

You'll get a better idea of the compression if you stick your little finger in the spark plug wire hood, then your index finger in the spark plug hole. I find that even more energizing that a morning cuppa joe!

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

Just found the first problem - and possibly why the motor was sold so inexpensively. I removed the flywheel nut and cover plate, only to find that someone tried to pull the FW and broke all three bolts off in it. The guy who sold me the motor told me that his son-in-law had it for awhile and that he was sort of an idiot. My guess is that he used a cheap auto parts store puller without grade 8 bolts.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

Those broken bolts will probably come out ok...at least I hope they will.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

The three bolts can be left alone. They are in what used to be three indentations in the flywheel. A steel ring with pressed tabs used to fit over the flywheel and the three tabs engaged the holes. The ring was held by the flywheel nut. The ring was used as a rope starter in case the factory pull starter broke. Someone has drilled and tapped the holes specifically to use a puller.

However, that flywheel is not on so tight that it can not be removed. Simply wedge a tire iron or very large screwdriver under the rim and pry up. At the same time tap the loosened flywheel nut firmly. It may take a couple of tries but the flywheel will pop off. If you get desperate, heat the center a bit with a propane torch.

If the broken 1/4 inch bolts really bother you, after the flywheel is off, drill ans remove them. Then, if the tapped holes are dicked up, drill all the way through and tap to 5/16 inch.

Flywheel nut should be a 3/4 flanged nut and should be torqued to 45-50 FT LBS. Points are set to .020 gap.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

I think the FW is on the taper pretty hard. You are right about the small plate - this motor has it and I noticed the three nipples in the bottom of it to hold it in place for rope starting.

It appears to me that someone was beating on the top of the crank because the edges of it are messed up and the nut doesn't thread properly. I'm going to have to use a die to clean the threads up. I tried using a rubber mallet on the bottom of the FW to see if it would pop but no go. I'll try the crow bar but am reluctant to beat on the bottom of the FW with anything solid, for fear of breaking it.

Frank, some folks say that heating a FW is not a good idea because doing so can affect the magnet. I guess it degauses it. Any thoughts on this? If the FW is stuck, I'm not sure what else I could do w/o putting a puller on it. If, on the other hand, I can use an easy out to remove the screws, I can use my OMC puller on it. It might take some gradual tightening, with penetrating oil applications in between successive and progressive tightening, but that usually works.

Also, the starboard side transom bracket is missing on this engine. If anyone hears of a junk motor available within a reasonable shipping distance of New Orleans, I might be interested. Ideally, I would like to find someone who is parting a motor out. I was just on EBay but nothing suitable there, but I'll keep looking.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

Update: Thanks to Frank for his good advice - I tried prying the FW and it popped right off. Apparently, it needs pressure from just the right angle. Also, I don't think that what I was looking at is, in fact, broken bolts. There are no holes going all the way through the FW as there usually are on a FW that has threaded holes for use with a puller. Although the surface inside of the indented area on the top side gives the appearance of broken bolts, I guess they are just rough looking.

I still can't figure out why someone was beating on the top of the crank taper but hopefully doing so hasn't damaged anything internally.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

Put a wanted ad in the Chrysler Crew.

As far as heat, you only heat the center, not the rim where the magnets are, and you only heat it enough to slightly expand it.

When you whack the crankshaft, you are supposed to run the nut up so you don't **** up the threads AND/OR use a soft aluminum or brass block to absorb the blow.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1974 Chysler 102HA 10hp

This is turning out to be an interesting motor. When I looked at it, there was fuel pump diaphragm hanging off of one of the fuel pump cover screws. The appearance was as if it had gone to a shop for a tuneup and the diaphragm had been changed, with the old one attached to show that the work had been done. The plugs were also new looking - when I took them out to check the compression, they were clean with no signs of having been used.

I just looked at the points with a bright light and a magnifying glass, and this inspection seems to confirm something else that I noticed when I pulled the FW last night - the ignition parts seem to have been replaced too. It looks like someone put new coils, spark plug wires, points and condensors in this motor. The carb is also very clean, at least on the outside, so I am wondering if it was rebuilt too.

A call to the seller tonight didn't reveal much. He says that the motor has been in his bedroom closet for 12 years, after getting it back from his son-in-law. He doesn't know if the SIL had some work done to it just before returning the motor, but it sure looks like it. At this point, I think I will double check the point gap, put the FW back on and use my spark gap tool to check for spark. If I get good, fat spark, I'll order a water pump impeller and replace the one that is in it now, when I get a chance.

One question, however. Some one broke the fuel hose connector off, flush with the engine cover. I don't have a service manual yet so I am wondering if it screwed out of the lower cowl from the outside or from the inside. What ever the case, I can probably jam an easy-out into it to remove and replace it.

Wouldn't it be nice if all this motor needs is a new transom bracket, fuel connector and water pump impeller?